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Stan 24v

Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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Now I'm probably way off here, but would that not be the 3.0 24v (audi?) rather than the 2.8 CoxyLaad???

 

Suerly all vw 2.8's are vr6's???

 

Here's hoping anyway :)

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Just managed to source a cracked 24v DP from VW - for free!! :shock:

 

Mate just called to say they have a Seat Leon 2.8 24v v6 in at the moment with the above DP. Apparently it's quite common on the Leon 24v's due to too much heat build up.

 

Anyhow, I can cut the cracked pipes off and re-use the flanges and flexy joints. Just need to get the pipes made up now, buy 3 engine mounts, 4 lamda's and that's the lot. Hoping to start the conversion next week :D

 

Dutch

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You can get the Audi 2.7 biturbo (twin head V6) into a Rado by all accounts, so I'm sure the Passat 2.8 one should go in too!

 

The twin head jobbies are Audi engines and the VR engines are VW. Guess which is the smoother and quieter?! It's not the single head fella, that's for sure!

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Can anyone tell me what the OE plugs are for a BDF 24v VR6 ?

 

Also what's the best oil to use?

 

Dutch

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Guess you could go for that V6 after all then Will???!!! ;)

 

 

Nah.

 

Got an engine now mate. And a charger (as soon as i pay for it today). So it looks like its all coming together :)

 

Going to see if I can afford nos (for the craik like) :)

 

 

(tbh i can afford nos - i'm just struggling with the morals of owning a charged, nos'd vr!) :)

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(tbh i can afford nos - i'm just struggling with the morals of owning a charged, nos'd vr!) :)

 

What morals? No point getting any now!! :lol: Just do it!! Mad as :norty:

 

Dutch Not sure on the plugs, but I asked about oil on here before, and was told to stick with Synta Silver.

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(tbh i can afford nos - i'm just struggling with the morals of owning a charged, nos'd vr!) :)

 

What morals? No point getting any now!! :lol: Just do it!! Mad as :norty:

 

Dutch Not sure on the plugs, but I asked about oil on here before, and was told to stick with Synta Silver.[/quote:d5d48]

 

 

Would be nice eh mate? :)

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If I relocate the 24v secondary water pump to the VR6 location how can I block up the extra water hole in the front right of the block? The 24v has 2 holes in the front of the block and the 12v just one, with a metal plug welded in by the looks of it to where the second is on the 24v.

 

Can I just clamp a hose on it and blank it off?

 

Dutch

 

PS. any tips on removing the flywheel bolts as mine are well and truelly stuck and I don't want to bugger the bolts on that too !??

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umm.....Mr Horrocks relocated his auxilliary waterpump to the old Vr location, so its certainly doable, dont know exactly what he did but I am sure he will let you know if you ask him nicely ;)

 

afaik Mr H used all the vr kit, water housings etc.

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Where is your aux. water pump then Stan?

 

Yeah it's coming along slowly. Bloody aluminium bolts are so easy to f^&k up!!

 

CoxyLaad, That's exactly what I'm going to try and do, but if not and I leave the pump at the fron of the block where should the bottom hose from the aux. pump go and can I simply connect the hose from the bottom of the coolant reserviour to the heater matrix? I guess the hose from the bottom of the water reservious should connect upto the bottom hose on the aux pump (like in the VR setup) but then what do I do with the hose from the heater matrix, if you see what I mean???

 

Dutch

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OK, the 12v front engine mount bracket doesn't appear to fit?

 

There is an extra molding on the 12v block that the back top bolt goes through. This moulding is'nt on the 24v block so how do I secure the bracket with all 3 bolts??

 

I know it has to be modified slightly to clear the oil cooler, but wasn't expecting a moutning hole to be missing :(

 

Dutch

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The new flywheel/clutch are on and the 02A box. The box seems to mount fine but a couple of q's:

 

Anyone know the torque for the bolts labelled? (not clear in Bentley)

 

The gearbox mounts fine with 3 bolts from gearbox->engine (m12, 80 Nm), 2 bolts from engine into gearbox (also M12, but not sure on the torque. I presume less than 80 as the box is alumnium and the thread is in the hole on the box?), one long bolt (16cm) through the starter and gearbox into the engine and into the front engine mount bracket (M10, 60 Nm) and one bolt from the gearbox to the front engine mount bracket (M10, again not sure on the torque) There are no bolts at the bottom of the box though as there are no threads in the 24v block that line up with the box. This is the same on the 12v though so presume it's ok?

 

Jay/Phat/Coxy, does that all look/sound good to you?

 

You can see in one photo, at the back of the engine next to the flange for the driveshaft, is an uncovered area where you can actually see the back of the flywheel? Is this normal, should I block it up somehow or just leave it?

 

I'm going to fill the gap between the gearbox and front mount bracket with a metal spacer (where the moulding is missing form the 24v block) and weld a bracket on it so it can be bolted onto the engine again.

 

Dutch

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The new flywheel/clutch are on and the 02A box. The box seems to mount fine but a couple of q's:

 

Anyone know the torque for the bolts labelled? (not clear in Bentley)

 

The gearbox mounts fine with 3 bolts from gearbox->engine (m12, 80 Nm), 2 bolts from engine into gearbox (also M12, but not sure on the torque. I presume less than 80 as the box is alumnium and the thread is in the hole on the box?), one long bolt (16cm) through the starter and gearbox into the engine and into the front engine mount bracket (M10, 60 Nm) and one bolt from the gearbox to the front engine mount bracket (M10, again not sure on the torque) There are no bolts at the bottom of the box though as there are no threads in the 24v block that line up with the box. This is the same on the 12v though so presume it's ok?

 

Jay/Phat/Coxy, does that all look/sound good to you?

 

You can see in one photo, at the back of the engine next to the flange for the driveshaft, is an uncovered area where you can actually see the back of the flywheel? Is this normal, should I block it up somehow or just leave it?

 

I'm going to fill the gap between the gearbox and front mount bracket with a metal spacer (where the moulding is missing form the 24v block) and weld a bracket on it so it can be bolted onto the engine again.

 

Dutch

 

Hello mate,

 

Just got back from Italy today and saw your progress good to see another being done :)

Don't worry about the space behind the flywheel it will do no harm.

I modified the front mount by reshaping the bracket and rewelding it, so it sat flush against the block, otherwise it clashes with the oil cooler.

As for the torque settings I don't know of the top of my head, but basically tight!

 

Jay

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Hi Jay,

 

Hope you had a good trip mate :)

 

So you have that little gap behind the flywheel too then?

 

How do you mean flush against the block exactly and how many of the 3 bolts do you have attached to the engine itself? The way mine sits at the moment only one of the bolts mounts to the engine (the bottom left one) The other 2 bolts for the bracket are only fixed to the gearbox, and I doubt that will be strong enough to take the majority of the torque?

 

A picture would help if pos. mate? :)

...no rush though as you're probably knackered

 

Dutch

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