mic_VR 3 Posted April 26, 2009 Well lucky for me Tedman let me have a drive of his 2.8 24V this afternoon and wow what a difference. Wouldn't say the additional 15bhp is noticable, what is noticable is the way it delivers the power in such a way that it feels so much quicker from almost any revs. And it was super smooth, quiet on idle and makes a great noise, I can now definitely see why so many people are doing the conversions. Cheers Terry! :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tedman 0 Posted April 27, 2009 Not a problem mate like i said shame you couldn't take it on a longer run and stretch its legs a bit :wink: Think i need to sort out a cold air feed though it felt so much quicker last night. Looking forward to seeing your and kevs progress with 2.8 24v turbos :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 28, 2009 Yeah you're bang on Mic, the 24V spreads it's torque around much better than the 12V does :D. The R32 in a car weighing 200Kg less than it's donor must be awesome! I've driven standard Golf and Bora 4 Motions and they're just too heavy. Brisk, rather than quick. Awesome engines though :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tribetype40 0 Posted April 29, 2009 Afternoon fellas, A feeler this one, but I have sucessfully managed to get the 24v engine running from the VR6 engine management and have developed a kit of parts for doing this. The result is the conversion can be done in a weekend and be ready for mapping on the Monday! I've yet to get mine mapped but I'm confident the results will be good (it currently runs and idles as normal but is a little rich due to the bigger inectors). I should have it mapped by the end of May so more news and results will follow. My question is this: are people interested in either buying the kit of parts, or if you bought your 24V to me I could modify it ready to fit. I might also be able to offer to do the complete conversion but I need to make some garage space or I'll be single pretty quickly! (this is only for VR6 engined cars) I have currently only done this to an AUE engine but once mapped this conversion will be for sale (so register your interest!) after I have developed the kit on the R32 engine I have and which will be fitted later. It controlls the variable inlet but I'm still working on a device to control the cam advance, however this can be retro fitted at any time. I will be getting it mapped with and without cam control as a comparision. I expect to see that this does not affect overall power but improves the torque curve. I'm not going to divulge how it is done or what it includes (so please done ask) but it works and can be seen running if you wish to view it (should have a video in a few weeks). If your interested let me know and I will get an idea of how many parts I will need to get made and should be able to work out rough costs at that stage. Oh and it works with the standard Corrado dials with all rev counter MFA/MPG functions working 100% !!! Cheers Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted April 29, 2009 just wondering if anyone has a conversion diagram for the water pipes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted April 29, 2009 I used to but can't find it now :( Just use all the VR6 stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 30, 2009 I'm not going to divulge how it is done or what it includes (so please done ask) but it works and can be seen running if you wish to view it (should have a video in a few weeks). If your interested let me know and I will get an idea of how many parts I will need to get made and should be able to work out rough costs at that stage. "Buy this kit, but don't ask how it works or what it includes". Not a great sales pitch that. There's too many questions about this (how Motronic M2.9 can run a DBW throttle and pedal is one of them) to just expect people to get what they're given and take your word on it. I know it's just a feeler at this stage and well done on what sounds like an interesting work around to the age old management problem, but if you're selling this stuff officially, you're going to have to do better than that I'm afraid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tribetype40 0 Posted April 30, 2009 Its purposfully vague as its not 100% fully proven yet. Its not like I have asked for orders, only interest and given ballpark costs based on what it has cost me to do. No point getting intertest THEN telling people it would cost a million pounds to do (= NO interest) Once I have it fully completed the results will speak for themselves and I'll be more than happy for people to see the car and talk through whats involved. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 30, 2009 As you've posted it in 2 different threads, it seems like you're touting for business. You're keen to list the pricing at this stage, but not what people are getting. So no, you're not asking for direct orders, but you're clearing hoping for indirect ones and if they're to buy into this concept, they deserve more info up front imo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tribetype40 0 Posted April 30, 2009 Oh dear, if your offended please remove the threads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KADVR6 0 Posted April 30, 2009 chill Kev, i think what doug has/is doing is very good news for anyone that is looking to do a 24v conversion, and lets face it if i/you had spent months trying to find out if/how the 12v ecu can run a 24v engine then would we really want to divulge all the info freely on a public forum. i personally wouldn't, why cant someone make some money after all there hard work, and IF it does work?? then i'm sure there will be plenty of us purchasing the "kit" but of course that all depends on the finished article. dont forget i was using the standard vr6 throttle body and cable on my 24v and that worked just fine. i have met doug once and he's a really nice genuine enthusiastic vw guy, he also had a running 2.3 v5 corrado for a while so he does have a very good idea of what he is doing. so lets just wait until its all mapped etc etc. keep us all upto date please doug karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tribetype40 0 Posted April 30, 2009 Sure thing Karl, and thanks for the vote of support. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inf 0 Posted May 9, 2009 Hi, i hope the following question hasn't been replied in the thread yet, because i didn't read the whole thread, 60 pages were too many for me ;) I have a question about a conversion from g60 to 24v v6 engine. I also have a corrado g60 and i'm planning a conversion to 24v v6. Can i still use the g60 axles with some different parts to use a better brake, or do i need to use the vr6 axles? What about the driveshafts? Can i combine them with the g60 wheel bearing box? Thanks for your efforts :cheers: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted May 11, 2009 Hi, i hope the following question hasn't been replied in the thread yet, because i didn't read the whole thread, 60 pages were too many for me ;) I have a question about a conversion from g60 to 24v v6 engine. I also have a corrado g60 and i'm planning a conversion to 24v v6. Can i still use the g60 axles with some different parts to use a better brake, or do i need to use the vr6 axles? What about the driveshafts? Can i combine them with the g60 wheel bearing box? Thanks for your efforts :cheers: I think you will need pretty much everything to the VR tbh, you'll need to convert to VR (without engine) and then to 24v as far as I know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 11, 2009 What are the pro's and con's to using a mk4 engine instead of a mk5 and vice versa? Ie performance, reliability, ease to use for conversion, extra parts needed etc I was dead set for getting a mk5 but just found out that the fuel rail causes difficulty and you need a PRV to regulate the fuel. I want a nice clean uncluttered setup and having more parts make it tough to do this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted May 11, 2009 what are your plans for the conversion? running it on the original ecu or going standalone? will you be using the mk4/mk5/corrado clocks? I think for performance there isn't alot in it, reliability is not really an issue to worry about with the engines as from what i've heard people have seen r32s with 200k on the clock with original chains and clutches etc. When i spoke to Vince (if my memory serves me right) he said the mk4's are alot easier to setup as the mk5s need alot more setting up but vagdoc has got around all that as you can see from pete_griffs. As for the extra parts needs, other than the standard parts (oil cooler, manifold and wiring) its just pipes being altered and mixing and matching between engine parts on the 12v and 24v like tensionners etc but people have done it different ways, just depends how you want to go about it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 11, 2009 I'm doing standard management and using dubpower exhaust with marks modified loom and ecm. I guesse the pro's are that there are more mk4 engines and they are easier to fit (fuel lines, ecm etc). Con's are that they are older and would have higher mileage. I was just worried that internally there are some "bad" designs of the r32 that were resolved on the later engines ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted May 11, 2009 Hi, i hope the following question hasn't been replied in the thread yet, because i didn't read the whole thread, 60 pages were too many for me ;) I have a question about a conversion from g60 to 24v v6 engine. I also have a corrado g60 and i'm planning a conversion to 24v v6. Can i still use the g60 axles with some different parts to use a better brake, or do i need to use the vr6 axles? What about the driveshafts? Can i combine them with the g60 wheel bearing box? Thanks for your efforts :cheers: I think you will need pretty much everything to the VR tbh, you'll need to convert to VR (without engine) and then to 24v as far as I know. tbh, the easiest thing to do is stay wit 4-stud stuff i've you've already got 4-stud i.e you'd be better off looking at 20vt conversions if you've got a g60. as mr herisites says - to run 5-sud stuff (r32 etc), then you'll need all 5-stud running gear, which only vr's have Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 18, 2009 I'm finding quite a few audi 3.2 engines, do these require a audi specific ecm to run or can a r32 ecm run them if it's coded correctly? Are the audi's more powerfull because of the ecu mapping or is it to do with cams etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted May 22, 2009 Right guys Im having real issues getting my car through MOT due to emissions. Ive had a CAT fitted but it made next to no difference. The car is running about 3% CO and 300ppm HC, way higher than it should. The car is running a standard VR CAT with both rear lambda probes taken out. I had a log done that brings up the following codes, 17834 EVAP Purg valve - open circuit 17841 2ndar air pump relay - open circuit 17530 Bank2 rear lambda - open circuit 17526 Bank 1 rear lambda - open circuit How have people worked round not running the rear lamdba's? Spoke to PSI who said the map they put in the car should do this (Custom Code) however a knowledgable friend suggest suggests that the rear lambda codes are putting the car into limp mode and hence the over fuelling. The wires are not there for the rear lambdas so I cannot get them attached. The car is the same as when I picked it up in that there is no performance difference and the fuel consump is the same therefore Im wondering if it been like this all along. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 22, 2009 The deleted lambdas need their fault code switching off in software and then the ECU will ignore them. I can't remember if it's the front or rear ones, but one type can't be removed completely and one can. I'm sure it was the fronts that can be binned (and disabled) and you just run the rears? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tedman 0 Posted May 22, 2009 Very interested to see how this turns out as mine is the same spec! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted May 22, 2009 The front lambdas are widebands and these are used for the gas analysis, fuel correction etc. The rear ones are simply there to tell you if your cat is working and nothing else, hence PSI did away with them. The ECU only throws the car into limp mode if the widebands are not operating properly, as the rear operating does not put the engine in any danger. Make sure that PSI have put the Widebands the correct distance away from the ports, it's quite critical within reason - a cm or two doesn't matter but a 300mm does matter. Is your CAT working ok? Was your old engine using oil? it may have ruined your CAT. Hope you get it sorted buddy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted May 22, 2009 I'm finding quite a few audi 3.2 engines, do these require a audi specific ecm to run or can a r32 ecm run them if it's coded correctly? Are the audi's more powerfull because of the ecu mapping or is it to do with cams etc Audi's are the best engines- apparently slightly better quality internally- although I've yet to see this for myself, (but they are more expensive to buy new) and this may be though why they are given a slightly higher power output- but I'm not sure if Audi would have a different map for the sake of it, because they still have the same safety, economy margins etc so if the engine was the same surely the map would be the same :shrug: I do know for sure that the Audi uses a bigger diameter MAF, and the Airbox has a trumpet in it where the VW one doesn't, so there is one small difference. I'm sure it would work on a VW ECU. But the main reason they are best is because that is what i'm using. :D :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted May 22, 2009 The front lambdas are widebands and these are used for the gas analysis, fuel correction etc. The rear ones are simply there to tell you if your cat is working and nothing else, hence PSI did away with them. The ECU only throws the car into limp mode if the widebands are not operating properly, as the rear operating does not put the engine in any danger. Make sure that PSI have put the Widebands the correct distance away from the ports, it's quite critical within reason - a cm or two doesn't matter but a 300mm does matter. Is your CAT working ok? Was your old engine using oil? it may have ruined your CAT. Hope you get it sorted buddy. Brand new CAT as it had a decat before and it had a good spanking before going in for re-test. Im getting it tested again with the MAF disconnected to see what difference that makes. So even though the error codes are coming up on Vagcom the ECU could potentially be ignoring them through the remap? I really need to get more clued up with this side of it. The more I find out about the Custom code stuff the less I like. I struggle to get 270miles to a tank (since I got it) and thats 50% motorway driving. I suppose the good thing is that it flys at the moment so when I get it running right is should be even better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites