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Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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I don't think they make much of a difference without a remap mate, I've heard people easily getting 270-280 with just a remap on their car though!

 

I think you might struggle with providing the vcds with enough information, for one it would need a mph signal! There isn't one delivered to the ecu?

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ok, i'll be happy if i make standard as it is, good to know that remap can release a few more ponies.

 

Speed signal is now sorted to the ECU, i'm not entirely sure what else hasnt been spliced in that should have been , but i'm working my way through it.

 

have a mk2 waiting to do with the same setup , so learning lots from the teardown of the mk3 and the info in this thread.

Edited by dil

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Let me know if you need any parts, I have a lot of mk4 gear in a box from when i bought my setup. None of the main conversion components unfortunately but other parts that may be of some use. (sai pump, air con pump, etc.)

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cheers will defintly keep you inmind, how come you decided to keep yours , i'm pretty sure we spoke last year and you were looking to sell, or was that someone else......

Edited by dil

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My MK5 engine made 254hp with the factory map and Corrado airbox + convoluted pipework! It made 267 after a remap but it would have made 280 easily with the usual breathing mods.

 

I would keep the cat if possible as R32s seem to make less torque without it and you get a horrible resonating rasp too. Sounds nice for the first half a dozen journeys but after that it gets tiring. I think the VVT is map programmed to expect the back pressure of a cat and when it's gone, it no longer feels as punchy low down. I've certainly noticed it, as have plenty of MK4/5 owners.

 

Anybody know what this plug is. Save me going through my diagrams

 

Looks like a power plug to me mate. The blue/yellow wire tells me it's a power (whilst cranking) feed to the MAF etc. That normally plugs into the relay/fuse board under the wipers in the MK4/5.

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based on the video below of 30-100 acceleration starting in 2nd gear, try and ignore the slack up shifts , would you say that the engine is producing fairly linear power throughout the rev range? Notice any issues? Trying to determine if I should be noticing vvti switch more than I do

.

Edited by dil
added youtube link

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Can't see the video as I'm at work but I'm sure other R32 convertees can commment.

 

The VVT is subtle. It's not a VTEC type system that gives a noticable step in the power delivery. Most of the R's torque comes from the intake manifold and if that's working as it should, 2000-3000 should feel very punchy (strongest at 2500), between 3000-4000 the car feels flatter and 4500 it picks up again and at 5000 it should start pulling hard again.

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As kev said mate, the 3.2 is very linear, no harsh vvti kicking in. Mine follows the same pattern as Kevin says.

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ok , i think i may need to check my plunger is working properly, it only seems to operate under sharp stabs of the throttle in the upper rev range, does this sound normal? anything in vagcom to allow me to test it on the move?

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Don't forget it there will probably be more force behind it when the engines under load - more of a vacuum. Testing it parked up sounds about right that it'd do that. I don't recall if mine did that as someone else was watching it for me

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does the intake manifold mate up flush to the block when bolted down or does the rubber gasket sit inbetween causing the intake to slightly away from the mating face with the block?. when i put the intake back on after refitting the exhaust manifold the way the intake sat has always concerned me

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thanks mate for confirming , i was gearing my selfup to take that front end off.....again.

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Yeah that is a downside of the R32 in any car that has it fitted. Front end off to do anything!

 

So long as the intake bolts were tightened up nicely you have nothing to worry about. It does look like it's not fitting properly the first time you look at an R32 though! The intake also has rubber inserts for the bolt holes to stop you overtightening it and cracking the plastic.

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The video looks like a normal R32 to me! Pulling well. And yep, you do need to stab the throttle quite hard before the intake plunger pulls down. All perfectly normal, as is new V6 owners trying to find problems that don't exist :D

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did you guys wire in the clutch pedal switch, is it important?

 

I have weird over revs between shifts, and reading on vw vortex i think this down to a faulty one of these or in my case a lack of one of these

Edited by dil

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I've got as far as getting the engine in and it cranks but refuses to fire. Scanned with vagcom and got this;

 

11 Faults Found:

 

 

18057 - Powertrain Data Bus

P1649 - 35-00 - Missing Message from ABS Controller

17645 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)

P1237 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17649 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 5 (N83)

P1241 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17647 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32)

P1239 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17650 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 6 (N84)

P1242 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17938 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment

P1530 - 35-00 - Short to Ground

17648 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33)

P1240 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17923 - Intake Manifold Valve (N156)

P1515 - 35-00 - Short to Ground

17646 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31)

P1238 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17530 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S2

P1122 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2

P1118 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

 

The lambda's weren't plugged in so not concerned too much about that. Is there a common earth in amongst that lot that i've simply missed? It's been wired up IAW the clubgti wiring guide.

 

​Is it the fuel pump relay giving me grief? I can physically feel it clunk over and latch on?

 

I've not hacked into the engine loom itself so I would be surprised if it simply a plug i've missed?

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Further to this, I'm not getting the smell of fuel at all, plugs are dry, but I disconnected the fuel feed and it flows out when the engine is cranking.

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What engine? There won't be any fuel going through if the ecu cant control the injectors!

 

What wiring guide is this?

 

There are a few common earths, one on the engine and 3 by the battery iirc.

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Aye I knew that the injectors weren't working, I was just confirming that the injectors were stuck shut opposed to being stuck open.

 

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887-OEM-management-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ - It's for 1.8t lumps but they share the same ecu so you can take advise from that post when you are looking through wiring diagrams.

 

​Thanks for that picture but I have power through pin 62, I haven't seen anything about pin 21 before though! At least I do not remember seeing anything about it!

 

---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:35 PM ----------

 

Oh and it's AUE, my bad!

 

---------- Post added at 10:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

 

Having a very quick look through my AUE wiring diagrams shows no mention of T121/21

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I'll look and see tomorrow if there is physically a wire to pin 21, there is either a wire and I have actually done something with it or its not there at all as I don't have any spare wires. It's odd!

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tbh dude it could of been pin 21 that skrewed me cant quite remember 100% if it was 62 or 21 , i know before that i couldnt get fuel and i couldnt scan the ecu either! but you can scan the ecu right?, when i powerd it up the throttle body started buzzing and it started up straight away!! oh where is the engine number located? cant seem to find the blady thing,

 

 

edit: just looked through my old emails regarding the wireing and it was pin 21 that gave me the problems, {black wire } apparently none of the BDE wireing diagrams shown anything for this which is why the guy didnt do anything with it, so lucky i found that pic or i would of been in a wireing nightmare all by myself.

Edited by VW_OwneR_85

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