Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Yeah I can scan the ecu (first time as well! What a relief that was!) and I can hear the throttle body self align when in switched on and the throttle works from the pedal as well! There are also numerous clicks from the engine bay and I can hear the high pitch whine as well as things energise!

 

Where did you wire in pin 21 to? It's strange that it's not mentioned anywhere in the wiring diagrams though!

[VW_OwneR_85 2]

its wired to G2/4 , thats a fused ign live for engine electrics, its probabaly not your problem then seeing as you have all that working, mine was practicly dead with out that wire, maybe because mines a bde? worth a looksy though,

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I'm tempted to power up pin 21 but I'll have a physical check to see if that wire is even there!

[VW_OwneR_85 2]

I'm tempted to power up pin 21 but I'll have a physical check to see if that wire is even there!

haha would be a good idea ;) , what i did was peel all the loom tape back { probabaly for the 4th time!!} and traced it back, it went to a blob of glue holding the wires together!

 

 

guys iv just started the ball rolling on declareing my engine swap, to my surprise there not actualy wanting anymore money for it! but they do require a garage report for safety which is fair enough , now am i right in saying the only things which need to checked out are the three mountings , bay fuel lines and maybe the gearbox flange to driveshaft bolts?

Edited May 1, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Well I checked earlier and I don't have a pin 21 feed oddly enough!

 

On the advice of RubJonny from ClubGTi (lecky genius!) I checked my 14 pin plug and for pin 8 to have a feed to G1/10. Turns out that the pin wasn't wired in at all (schoolboy!) and that the plug had been fitted, it was just slaved up to the engine harness but not set home for some reason.

 

Anyway, all corrected and I went for a test fire, cranks doesn't fire but I can now smell fuel so all good there! Only fault codes showing are for the abs and the Lambda sensors not being plugged in. Why doesn't it fire?!

[KipVR 1]

Sparks?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Not that I'm aware of. Spark Plugs were checked yesterday, all good and gapped well! It's not even "trying" to fire, it's just cranking away!

[KipVR 1]

This is what I've done if I can remember right! My engine is a BHE though (Audi TT) so I'm not sure if it's all the same as a Mk5 engine.

 

G1 /02 outside air temp

G1 /03 Fuel pump trigger- J220/65 Purple/White

G1/04 15 +12V for ECU , VSS, J220/21 Black

G1/05 Earth Brown

G1/07 ECU Earth Trigger Wire- J220/23 Purple

G1/08 Fuel Pump Relay Output- AMM, Lambdas Blue/Yellow

G1/10 ECU Relay Output (109) ECU J220?/3 Injectors,Coils Black/Purple

G1/11 VSS (Signal) Blue/White

G1/12 ECU Tach Signal J220/37 (Mk4 and Audi Engines only)

Edited June 22, 2013 by KipVR

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Sounds good, but I have a 121 pin plug not a 220? Or is J220 something else? Mine is a basic, early 2.8 24v AUE.

[KipVR 1]

Oh right sorry pal, you're just going to have to start from the basics and work your way back I suppose. It'll be worth it!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I'm just comparing yours with mine at the moment and its the same, except I don't have the G1/7 trigger available on my ecu. Changing my relay 109 to a relay 30 or 32 should cure my problems though.

 

 

[KipVR 1]

I'll see if I can dig the wiring diagrams out for your engine. Do you know what car it came from etc, the more details the better, presumably a golf 4 motion?

 

---------- Post added at 11:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:35 PM ----------

 

You have had the ECU immobilizer defeated haven't you?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Cheers Kip, I think I've managed to sort it out. Current theory is that my ECU doesn't give a switched earth out so that I can't use one to turn on the ECU relay on G1/10. If I change my 190 relay to a 30 from a mk3, this will allow G1/10 to energise when the engine in cranking and the fuel injectors are working. My G1/10 supplies power to my coil pack which explains quite conveniently why my car fails to fire!

 

I'm picking up a new 30 relay from TPS in the morning so watch this space!

 

---------- Post added at 7:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:33 PM ----------

 

Yes the immo has been defeated btw :)

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Quick update, I fitted relay 30 in place of the 190 corrado item and we have ourselves a winner! I only ran it for a few seconds as there is no exhaust or cooling system hooked up. Fired up straight away and it idled beautifully and sounded great! Cheers for all of the input from everyone!

[KipVR 1]

Well done glad its all running. Love that moment when it fires up and runs nice after lots of electrical work. 🍺😄

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I did feel great and very manly but I was soon put straight by the missus who didn't seem as impressed due to the noise and promptly gave me some other chores to do instead of "playing" the with the car!

 

Cheers again Kip!

[VW_OwneR_85 2]

haha i guess we cant have it all!! good job glad you sussed it out.

[VW_OwneR_85 2]

right guys ! got a fault thats realy annoying me! so basicaly the only fault i actualy had from doing this conversion was for the vehicle speed signal, i connected that up from ecu plug pin 54 to w-1 on the fusebox and it was fine! i got full use of the rev range! where as before i was limited @5.5k revs , but it seems like a can go for a straight 40min drive no problem! but if i stop off some where for 30mins or so then when i move off, the throttle pedal is dead! i have to switch off and back on again! and its like that for the rest of the journey back home,

 

now 20vtvw connected his vss up to w-1 and lost his throttle straight away! its wierd how i can drive mine perfect untill i have to stop off somewhere and start up again, i have scanned the ecu and it came up with 3 faults

16990 /p0606 ecm/pcm processor {that fault was logged twice}

18047/ p1639 pedal pos sensor 1+2 range/performance.

 

i have since cut my vss wire back to how it was and its been fine for the first longish journey which i made 2 stops and its been fine! havent had a chance to drive it more,

im going to replace relay 109 for the newer updated relay anyway , some 20vT conversions must of had this problem surely? , i guess most people that do this conversion throw it in to get re mapped which sorts these little niggles out ....btw the engine is running amazing! hot or cold or anything! i realy cannot fault how it runs! i can live with the 5.5k limit for now as where i live anything above and your asking for trouble but would be nice to have 0 fualts..

[Fanjita 1]

I had a serious fault with my throttle pedal going dead but that was due to a bad ecu so I guess my findings are of no good to you!

 

I need some advice from fellow r32ers if you will, 2 things!

 

Firstly, what exhaust diameter is best? I have the original magnet fitted and although its a brilliant exhaust, it's a little on the quiet side now mine has the r lump. I understand that's 2.25" and have been reading that golf owners favour 2.75-3" setups?

Will 3" be quite loud? I want it louder but not mad, I think that might be mainly down to my mid silencer being suitcase sized. What has everyone else done on theirs?

 

Second, is the topic of mapping the ecu.

I regularly read that r32'd corrados can hit 270bhp+ quite often with the likes of stealth working their magic on the mapping. Is this actually realistic?

Some have even hit 280! Is there really 30 hp to be had from a straight forward remap? I need it to go in soon for some tweaks so definitely going to get it mapped.

Cheers

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Interestingly enough I've just ordered a Techtonics system for my R32 as I find the original exhaust to be stupidly boomy and annoying and I want to kill it to death with a road hammer. Bury it. Then exhume it 6 months later and kill it some more!

 

Anyway, Jetex do a 2.75" and Milltek do a 3" system for the MK4 R32 but they are just ridiculous, so I would stick to 2.5" mate. The Jetex 2.5" on mine was pretty fruity without the front silencer on it. I warn you now though, the metallic rasping from a freed off R32 can really, really get on your nerves after a while.

 

Yep, MK5 engines usually see 270-280hp, but some of that is down to extending the rev limit to 7200rpm, from 6600rpm.

[Fanjita 1]

Cheers Kev!

 

Please bring it over when you've got the exhaust fitted! That a 2.5" you're going for then?

Ideally I'll get one made up with a smaller suitcase silencer and ill take your advice and go with the 2.5". I think I get that noise already, like a hissing sound when you floor it? Don't worry it's not a vacuum leak I'm hearing haha. I've got the dub power mani which I was told is 3" and (wrongly) informed by the dub power guy that the setup should have the same diameter exhaust! 3" into 2.5" exhaust shouldn't be too bad, right?

 

The remap, do you think upping the rev limit is asking for trouble or are the engines okay with it?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yup, 2.5". I had a Techtonics on my Corrado and they are easily the best aftermarket exhaust I've come across. They are better suited to refinement lovers though, giving a nice bassy tone at low revs and zero cabin drone. Probably not for you if you want more noise!

 

The noise I'm on about is the metallic rasping R32s kick out when the cat's been removed. It's sounds epic the first time but on a daily car when you just want to be quiet in slow moving traffic, it's a annoying! The dubpower outlet is 3"? In that case you'll need a step down pipe to join onto your 2.5" system, but surely you've done that already?

 

7200rpm is the limit really. Any more than that and apparently the lifters can bounce out of their sockets! My limiter's been raised to a more conservative 7000. I rarely go up there as it is and 200rpm more won't make much of a difference.

[Fanjita 1]

That's strange, don't get a rasp but I do think I know what you're talking about. Maybe my silencer is just so large it doesn't allow it through?

 

Yeah at the moment it's the 3" to the 2.25" exhaust, but the exhaust fits inside the decat pipe. What I did was put some cuts into the decat and then clamp it over it, but I have a strong feeling that's just adding a bottleneck. I'm wondering if it really is 3" on the mani & decat, as it did fit quite snug around the original exhaust.

[J.C 10]

I'm havng a v6 4motion conversion done (starting Saturday) and I'm wondering whether the 24valve unit means the car loses a bit of it's authenticity, ie is it just like a smoother, better vr6 or is it like a modern car,

I suppose I'll ind out after the conversion,

I'm fitting 20vtvw's conversion but with air con and a 0.717 5th gear on the 3.9fdr gearbox:dance:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Completely changes the car, so much bottom end torque compared to the 12V. It still suits the corrado as you can hang onto the revs past 6500 like the old VR6. The 24V is very quiet too so it does also modernise the car a bit too.