swiftkid 1 Posted May 23, 2014 Having a bit of a problem with the belt size, I ordered a 6pk1624 as specified in this thread which I believe it a 4motion non air con belt and it's quite a fair bit too long, I've swapped the power steering pump over to the 4motion one and seems like the original corrado belt size is the right length. Anyone experienced this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
perksy 11 Posted May 23, 2014 Swift kid did you change the power steering pulley wheels over so the vr power steering pump has the 24v wheel on? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted May 23, 2014 I swapped the whole vr power steering pump with the 4motion pump. I had it so. Thought I might as well swap it, the pulley was slightly smaller though, have I been sent the wrong one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 23, 2014 VR6 PAS pump + 4 motion 6 rib pulley + 4 motion belt = no problems for me :) I wish he had decided that before he agreed to do mine, would have saved me months of hassle and a few hundred quid, **** poor customer service! Only doing looms onsite now smacks of customer distrust, but, ME7 looms can be a royal pain in the rump, so I can understand it to a degree. However, given he asks what car the loom is going into, it should be supplied fit for purpose. Stealth did my loom and sent it to me in the post and it all went in perfectly with no problems. I have to say, Vince is an amazing guy with not only this stuff but also after sales support. Once you get to know him, he really does go above and beyond compared to other tuners. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
perksy 11 Posted May 23, 2014 I swapped the whole vr power steering pump with the 4motion pump. I had it so. Thought I might as well swap it, the pulley was slightly smaller though, have I been sent the wrong one? mine is same as kevs and i didnt have any problems what does the top tensioner look like and pics of the wheels below left vr right 24v size difference , its hard to see but the vr 1 is under it sorry for poor pic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted May 26, 2014 What have people done about the PCV Valve, I've got an AUE code engine with the PCV outlet on the left side (looking from the front), I havent got the original PCV valve, At the moment it is feeding into the intake after the MAF but before the throttle body, From what I've read, the following may or may not be true The VR6 24v has a (sophisticated) built in baffle system already in the rocker cover and doesn't need the crap OEM PCV valve, You don't want oil vapour in your engine, can cause air/fuel mixture to be more volatile, Oil residue in intake is normal on engines, it's called "blow by" Vr6 PCV Valve is to stop the pressurising of the crankcase when intake pressure rises at high RPM, PCV valve stops an intake backfire igniting crankcase gasses Catch can is the best solution, So what solutions do people employ cheers Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted May 27, 2014 Cheers perksy, that all looks right. I'll have to double check I'm routing the belt right, its not just a little bit long... its quite a bit longer. Not sure if the Audi engines have done something weird. But just to clarify I've got a 4motion power steering pump and pulley, 4motion belt tensioner & alternator mounting bracket and the rest is Audi 3.2 stuff. I've got a quick question to those doing wiring themselves, I had originally thought that T121/17 & T121/50 was the blue temp sensor (warm up map sensor) but found that its actually radiator outlet coolant temp sensor G83, what has everyone done with these wires? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 27, 2014 What have people done about the PCV Valve, I've got an AUE code engine with the PCV outlet on the left side (looking from the front), I havent got the original PCV valve, At the moment it is feeding into the intake after the MAF but before the throttle body, From what I've read, the following may or may not be true The VR6 24v has a (sophisticated) built in baffle system already in the rocker cover and doesn't need the crap OEM PCV valve, You don't want oil vapour in your engine, can cause air/fuel mixture to be more volatile, Oil residue in intake is normal on engines, it's called "blow by" Vr6 PCV Valve is to stop the pressurising of the crankcase when intake pressure rises at high RPM, PCV valve stops an intake backfire igniting crankcase gasses Catch can is the best solution, So what solutions do people employ cheers Steve You mean you haven't got the round disc shaped thing on the intake pipe? It's the MK5 that has the sophisticated breather and is called "Cyclone" IIRC. The MK4 3.2 / 2.8 just has a normal wire-in-a-box separator. I would just go by how oily your throttle blade gets. Mine takes months to get even vaguely dirty, so it does a good job of keeping oil out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted May 27, 2014 Cheers perksy, that all looks right. I'll have to double check I'm routing the belt right, its not just a little bit long... its quite a bit longer. Not sure if the Audi engines have done something weird. But just to clarify I've got a 4motion power steering pump and pulley, 4motion belt tensioner & alternator mounting bracket and the rest is Audi 3.2 stuff. This is the picture I used to check mine was correct, from Sams guide. I'm using the same parts as you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 27, 2014 Anyone have any suggestions of my issues at ~2000rpm with the jerking? its getting friggin anoying Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 27, 2014 Any codes? Full load, part load or on the overrun? Give us a bit more info (unless I missed it like a blind tit) and I'm sure someone can help. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 27, 2014 np Sean, I did mention a few posts back but here it is again "cant remember if its been discussed/resolved before but I get pretty bad kangarooing at 2000rpm and slight at around 1000rpm. Its getting quite annoying as at 2000rpm its pretty much 60mph where my journey seem to be most of the time so have to either choose a different gear or go faster to change the rev range. any one else face this? Not sure if this is linked or true but my last MOT place said that the manifold was glowing red when they were doing the emissions test!! They sat at 2000rpm to do this part of the MOT which makes me wonder if it's linked to the above, maybe the ECU is incorrectly setting the timing? As a reminder, im 3.2 24v with BDB engine and ecu. FPR set to 4bar iirc." havent done a scan yet, but not sure what to look out for as last scan showed loads of errors due to the conversion anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted May 27, 2014 have you checked the DBW throttle pedal output, to make sure it's not dropping out, Anyone have any suggestions of my issues at ~2000rpm with the jerking? its getting friggin anoying Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 27, 2014 Sorry Sam, I remember you posting that now! Your conversion shouldn't give up any fault codes. I know mine doesn't. Either way, you shouldn't have a red glowing manifold at that RPM. It sounds as if you have a restriction and a fuelling issue. Do you have a particularly bad MPG? Are you going to the PDC meet on Sunday? MicVR is trying (successfully at this point I'll add!) to get me to go. I'll bring down my VCDS for you if you want it scanning? If you go full throttle from low revs, does it shudder at 2k as well? Or is it a case of it only shuddering under part load? If you coast down through 2k from speed does it shudder as well? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 27, 2014 Ive never seen the glowing manifold and am unsure how much to believe from that garage too, so it may be a red herring not sure about mpg, only just really started to use it again this summer after the winter break. I dont recall the shudder being as bad last year. I feel a "shudder" on full load at 2k and seems to be there on coast down too but once past it seems fine, well except at 1k which also seems to have a similar feel but not as apparent. I have always had issues that the car doesnt run great on first start up. almost like its learning the parameters over again. lol, Ill be at the PDC meet, Im hosting it ;) If you could have a scan through I would be very appreciative as I am unsure what to look for. Just read your build thread, nice work mate! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 27, 2014 Lol, You'll be the guy who added me to the PDC Group then! I'll bring down my VCDS then. Do you have any other random faults with the engine? It could be related. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted May 27, 2014 What's the PDC group?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 27, 2014 Peterborough Dub Corpz - It's a local meet :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 28, 2014 either me or Chris (cdem). There are a few of us who run it. JC, check out my signature for details. TBH, we are branching out further than Peterborough. Including abroad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 28, 2014 I feel a "shudder" on full load at 2k and seems to be there on coast down too but once past it seems fine, well except at 1k which also seems to have a similar feel but not as apparent. I have always had issues that the car doesnt run great on first start up. almost like its learning the parameters over again. That is almost word for word how Fanjita described his issue to me once. The last time he brought his car round to mine it was idling really badly too. I think the only way to solve this is to bite the bullet and get it up to Stealth. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted May 28, 2014 Your prob right Kev. Wierd thing is that I dont remember it being this bad before. Will check basics again this weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted May 28, 2014 A bit of an out there question, But I read that the increased capacity of the 3.2 (compared to the 2.8 ) is due to a larger stroke, so in theory could you convert a 2.8 to a 3.2 with changing crank, rods etc? would it be worth it if you could pick up a F**ked 3.2 for under £500 or should I look at either upgrading to a 3.2 and sell on my 2.8 or supercharge the 2.8 I'd like to get around the 250 BHP mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 28, 2014 Also differences in the head and exhaust manifold. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted May 28, 2014 Also differences in the head and exhaust manifold. I know that later 2.8 and 3.2 have variable cam timing on both intake and exhaust, I'm not trying to make a 3.2 clone but more like giving the 2.8 a bit of a cheap(ish) boost so would increasing the cc yeild a repectable increase in bhp? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Golf-Audi-3-2-R32-Engine-/221439202762?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338ece15ca Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) Probably not worth the financial outlay as it'll need mapping as well. Don't get me wrong, but you'll spend upwards of 7 or 800 on parts by the time you fit new rings and crank bearings and a bit of mapping to gain a potential 25 or 30 ponies. Don't let that dampen your spirits though. Speak to Kevin Bacon on here, he is the guru all things 6 cylinders! I think you're better of swapping the heads over though :-) Edited May 28, 2014 by Sean_Jaymo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites