redex??

[matthewb1985 0]

my valver is still pinking like crazy even more so when its hot. just spoke to my local vw specialist who said he thinks its just choked up and needs some redex or similar running through the system to get rid of carbon??

 

what you reckon? does anybody reccomend this?

[dazzyvr6 0]

i used it in my VR6,never really noticed it running any differently...what petrol are you using by the way?

[matthewb1985 0]

95 ron i belive the 9a is fine to use that. i tried 98 ron but it made no difference

[blackcat 0]

I used it when I had a clio that was running a bit lumpy, seemed to work ok

[catch_twotwo 0]

I thought that people said NOT to use this or other petrol additives :?:

 

I was thinking of putting some through mine as I'm doing a long run and wanted to use the chance to clean things up a bit....

[gaz the geezer 0]

......i take it as read that you have checked co emissions, timing etc

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Redex does virtually nothing to clear internal deposits, although it's useful as an upper cylinder lubricant.

 

Sounds like it just needs some hard and long runs with Optimax. That fuel does have pretty good detergents in it.

[gaz the geezer 0]

.....optimax a big thumbs up here

[steve @ 0]

Forte (spelling?) gas treatment is very good. Not seen it for sale in the shops but you should be able to get it from most garages. Wouldnt bother with redex or any other additive tbh.

[gradeAfailure 0]

I've used that STP cleaner stuff (black bottle) in most of my cars just before a hard run and it does seem to make them rev a bit freer... Used that 10KBoost stuff once or twice too and it seemed to do pretty much the same thing...

 

Anyone tried the old "Italian Tune-Up" though...?

 

Courtesy of Ken's Digifant Page...

 

"Ye Olde "Italian Tune Up"

(not for the faint-hearted)

 

Consider the German heritage of your Volkswagen. Because of the high speed Autobahns, all VWs have been designed to run effortlessly at prolonged high speeds since Day One.

 

But today most owners trundle their VWs short distances through stop and go rush-hour traffic at low speeds. The opportunity to get the engine up on the cam and run it until good and hot is rare.

 

As a result, engine oil doesn't get hot enough to boil off moisture and burn off the deposits caused by low speeds and incomplete warm-ups. Even with a fresh cleaning and tune-up, these cars may still show poor idle step-off, hesitation and non-linear throttle response.

 

A cure can sometimes be to carefully run an otherwise good engine hard so it gets hot enough to burn the excess carbon deposits off the piston crowns, clean the valve faces and blast deposits off the spark plugs, fuel injector nozzles and oxygen sensor and at the same time boil any lingering water out of the oil.

 

 

Warning #1:

 

The following procedure can blow your engine to: smithereens, bits, pieces, orts, perdition and kingdom-come. If you own a high-mileage, low-compression, oil-swilling, rod-knocking, piece o' crap car (you know who you are, don't you), don't bother with the "Italian Tune Up" because you will end up walking home from what's left of your sorry pile of smoking and hissing ex-VW junk. OK? (I'm not kidding.)

 

:-)

 

Now. Assuming your car is otherwise in healthy condition already, and you have worked through the other steps on this site, let's begin.

 

The easiest way to "blow out the carbon" is to run the car under load at high engine speed. In other words, run the car right to the redline and hold it there in every gear. For decades, experienced drivers and mechanics have called this procedure the "Italian Tune Up".

 

Now this is a great trick on a race track, but hardly practical on the street.

 

The street alternative is to first check all fluids and top them up. Make sure you are running clean, high quality oil. I use regular dino-oil 20W50 in summer, 10W30 in winter. (A lot of experienced drivers swear by synthetic motor oils for high temperature running. The additional expense of synthetics may be offset by their longer drain intervals.)

 

Drive a while so that your oil and water temperatures rise into the normal zones, then head out to your local four-lane. In light or no traffic, try to run for one or two minutes at 90 to 100 kph (~ 55 to 60 mph) in second gear. The engine will be running (loudly) near the red line.

 

If you continue to push up into the red you will trigger the Digifant rev limiter which cuts the fuel supply in half. This will feel like a sudden roughness in the engine and a loss of power. The first time you experience this you may think you've blown something. Just back out of the throttle so you don't keep banging into the rev limiter. If your engine is in good shape, this is not dangerous, just disconcerting the first time you experience it.

 

Again, neglected engines will not be up to the strain. If you really don't know the maintenance history of your Digifant car, or if you've just bought it, do not attempt this!

 

WARNING #2:

 

If you blow a head gasket or otherwise detonate your engine by following this procedure, don't say you weren't warned! Because you have been warned.

 

Now if you feather the throttle back just out of rev limiter range and hold it there for 60 seconds or so, the car will continue to cruise smoothly, albeit loudly. (If you are not used to driving your car at or near the redline, the noise can be disconcerting, especially to your passengers!)

 

The point of holding the rpms steady under the red line is to get everything really hot from the piston tops and valve faces out to the catalytic converter. Under these conditions the engine will quickly reach peak operating temperatures.

 

 

I have this vision of four wonderfully hot whitish blue flames pouring out of each exhaust port into the downpipe. Sort of like getting the mixture just right on a Bunsen burner or an oxyacetylene torch, or how about on a 1650 hp Rolls Royce Merlin V12 at just under "war emergency" power? Nice!

 

 

If you have an oil temperature gauge, keep a close eye on it because depending on the ambient air temperature, this should be as high as it will ever get. In my Jetta on a warmish summer day, oil temperature peaks around 110°C (~230° F). That's hot!

 

Remember, if your car is in basically good shape to begin the red line is fairly conservative. A kilometer (or mile) or two of this is all you need to burn off the harmful deposits from stop and go driving. At 100 kph (~62 mph) and 6,000 rpm, a 60 to 90 second burst should be all you need.

 

After one or two such treatments, the improvement in Digifant low speed driveability and throttle transitions may be quite noticeable, especially after a few months of winter or just city driving.

 

Remember, the famous "Italian Tune Up" is meant only for drivers who know their cars well and know that their cars are in good shape. If you don't know whether your car is up to this kind of treatment, or if you can't afford to fix it if it blows up, then don't risk it.

 

After all of this, your Digifant car should be running like a champ.

 

Simple, what?"

[matthewb1985 0]

cheers for that gradeafailure might give it a shot. trying an additive will not harm my engine will it?

[catch_twotwo 0]

If you have an oil temperature gauge, keep a close eye on it because depending on the ambient air temperature, this should be as high as it will ever get. In my Jetta on a warmish summer day, oil temperature peaks around 110°C (~230° F). That's hot!

 

That part is interesting... especially to us G60 owners.

 

If I'm reading this right than all you need to do is get the engine oikl running as hot as you can to remove the particles. Quite a lot of G60's (without oil coolers) run hotter than this for prolonged periods anyway....

[JBOB 0]

I was looking into how to get rid of carbon build up and found this

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13991

 

I haven’t tried it but people are saying they’ve found improvements to their cars.

[catch_twotwo 0]

Hmm, interesting..... but sounds scary to me.

 

Any idea where would be best to do this water/steam flush on Rado G60 :?: or if it's even safe with a charger for that matter.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I don't think revving the balls off a 10+ year old VW in 2nd gear for 2 minutes is quite a good idea on the public roads :-)

[corradophil 3]

Hmmm interesting ideas. Iv'e read both before.

 

My car loves revs and often sees 6000 rpm +, so it's probably not too bad.

 

Also I decoked it around 20,000 miles ago by whilst re-building and gas flowing the head.

 

Maybe a combination of the two will work even better, if I put a pint of water in my petrol tank and do a lap of the M25 in 2nd gear it should surely run better. :D

 

I understand the theory of both, but no too sure I like the idea of connecting a bottle of water to my intake system.

[dav 0]

Tank your car up to the max and take it for a good long drive, I did this in my VR last Sunday and it has made a real big difference.

 

I drove all the way to Swansea (to see a Rallye) you don’t have to go that far but a good hour or two should do, I poured in some injector cleaner filled with some decent fuel and set off. I stayed at about 80 mph most of the way with the occasional blast up to about 100-110 mph. Prior to this the VR felt very sluggish and a bit rough and was heavy on fuel, but now its running great the MPG is back to were it should be the motor is a lot quieter and it seems to rev a lot cleaner.

 

All good,

 

Hope this helps

D.

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

We aint Saxo drivers gradeA! :lol:

[dinkus 10]

I must say after doing of daily thrashing down some rather fun B-roads to a job I was doing the VR does seem to be running a lot smoother...

[samg60 0]

for all the forced induction lot, its another good reason to fit water injection

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Aye, it steam cleans the piston crowns and valves :-)

[Valerian 0]

I recommend Redex.....as a valve and injector cleaner....it's been a saviour quite a few times for me at MOT times in the past.

 

I usually buy the larger bottle and tip half the contents into the fuel tank then just go for a long drive.

Used it for years in just about every car i've ever owned ......gets the thumbs up from me.

 

I'de have your ignition timing checked if i was you though.

[sciroccotune 0]

also the 9a should be able to sort out the timing, maybe the knock sensors on the front of the block have seen better days/ have been over tightened.

 

redex is fine to use, just chuck it in its worth a shot. i often use a little bottle every few weeks - every little helps