Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Dr Forinor

From K&N cone to original airbox

Recommended Posts

Wow, what a difference!!!

 

I didnt have a heatshield and just the K&N jobbie right next to the engine, was told to get rid of "that sh!te", so I did and put in the original airbox with the original VW filter. And wow, the acceleration is better, seems to pull cleaner and harder in all the gears, minus the great growl (which I dearly miss).

 

I then decided to change from the 17s to the original 15inch Solitudes, and my, what another difference, both in acceleration and handling [even though the tyres on the 15s (Avon ZV3) are worse than the tyres on the 17s (Toyo T1S on the front and Goodyear Eagle F1s on the back)].

 

Safe to say I am definitely sticking to the 15s, even though they look crap in comparison, but then I did buy the Corrado for performance, and thats what the 15s are best at.

 

 

Now my question;

 

Obviously the original airbox (with the not so free flowing filter) is better than the K&N jobbie, so I was thinking of just putting in an aftermarket panel filter. Now which one would you recommend? Or is there not much difference between the diff panel filters? I was thinking BMC since their CDA is much loved, plus it's cheaper than the K&N one. Would an aftermarket panel filter give me back some of the growl? Bear in mind I don't want to drill any holes in the airbox (I am a bit iffy when it comes to irreversibly modifying original parts).

 

Thanks in advance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want growl and performance go for a BMC CDA. Move the Carbon Canister from its position below the OEM air box and stick it on its side below the BMC CDA. Use about 5 - 6 inches of the flexable hose you get with the CDA and duct cold air up through the hole left by the CC. All fits perfectly and you should be hoovering up some reasonable cold air. You can then then take the external temp sensor and mount it some on the flexable hose... this way you can keep an eye on your intake air temp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have fitted a K&N panel filter in my VR, there is a little more howl than std, couldn't tell much difference in the way of performance though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a huge amount to be said for standard VR6s, mines standard apart from a BMC CDA, someone took me out in a VR6 with RamAIR filter and 17s and it was soooo lame. Mine was older and generally a bit rougher but it would have dicked the other car on any road at any speed. Can't recommend the BMC highly enough, it looks, sounds and performs brilliantly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you drill a few holes around the box, and feed it cold air through ducting, you'll get more of a roar, I believe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive got a K&N panel filter at the mo and it does give BOOORE! sound when accelerating hard, but I am thinking of sticking a induction kit of some kind on. Probably a CDA or Carbonio ,but am considering attaching a custom air feed from under the original box to the panel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was planning to put a K&N panel filter in my original airbox. I've changed my mind now and am liking the sounds of this BMC CDA instead since everyone seems to rate it.

 

I noticed everyone who has the BMC CDA seems to have a VR6. Sadly mine's just a 2L 16v, will it make much difference to performance on mine or is it only really worth it on VR6's?

 

Also can anyone recomend where to get one from and how much it should cost? I've had a quick internet search and can find them for other VWs but not for Corrados.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried Gwent VW ?

I think Im going to go for the custom oe box just to be different. I know people mod there boxs in different ways but Im thinking of running a 2 to 3" round duct up from under the bumper. This will then come up through the carbon canister hole and into the box. Ill be fabricating it from plumbing waste pipes ,angles and bends etc.

Itll be interesting to hear how it sounds!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DO NOT DRILL STD AIR BOXES

there is no gain and you will find it difficult to sell it again. if you want more growl. keep the air box and remove the tube from with in. these stop reverbrations in the air. hence no roar.

oh and panel filters are all same all ish, k&n are of couse the most exspensive. but look at jetex or jr panels.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not making this for sound purposes, and I know I'm drilling the air box in some ways, but this hole is going to be sealed around my pipe. I'm not doing the Swiss cheese method! I also cant see that this duct Ive got plans for wouldn't benefit by increasing the cold air intake to directly under the panel filter inside the heat restricting air box! I can understand your point about selling issues ,but I don't think this would increase the sound that much and would still look standard.

Ive had my car for a year now and although not the best example I'm going to spend money on it till its it how I want it ,and will have it for many years! lol :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

remove the tubing first thou. it takes 5 mins and releases supprising amounts of the induction noise.. plus it takes air from behind the headlamp. cant get much colder than that.. and its free.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh. just seen your on a vr. erm, not sure what the air box looks like. thought it was a g60 box.

 

dime- bar...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you on about the short oval shape pipe that connects to the back of the headlight ? I don't really want to move it unless it improves air flow etc?

Ive heard someone talk about de-coning an air box ,but I don't really know whats involved , anyone ?

 

EDIT ; Just done a bit of research and what your talking about doing is de-coning! This is supposed to reduce restriction so should benefit slightly,probably/maybe unnoticed. You will as said gain some more induction noise.

 

I think its pretty much the same last time I looked at the box,it has a snorkel shaped duct at the front.I think you just remove that part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That snorkel is a helmholtz resonator, designed to manipulate the air flow to reduce induction roar and boost torque. It's a deceivingly complex bit of kit.

 

K&N cones remove any useful inlet tract length and suck in hot air, reducing engine response and low rev urge at the same time.

 

The BMC is great. Noticeable gains in the midrange and not noisy if you use the flexi hose to move induction roar out of the engine bay and increase inlet tract length.

 

That or the standard box gives the lovely, subtle burble that VR6's are famous for, which you can hear from the tailpipe (where you should hear engine notes from imo), rather than suffering from an over powering, raspy induction racket that you get from a cone filter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Day i bought mine i put a cone on it and grinned for 2 hrs after which it did my head in. sit in traffic and the performance goes down the toilet and it made mine pink an awful lot.

 

Without the flexi pipe the bmc is loud but much deeper and less harsh then the cone. Put the flexi on and its much more subtle, amazing how much the tin pipe quietens it down, but still much nicer noise than standard. its the best compromise imo with the pipe on, and as kev said, unusually for this type of mod it does actually make her pull better. With the pipe on it also has a slight metalic edge to the note which i love, touring car-esq, but silent on a light throttle. Not cheap but worth EVERY penny mate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for everyone's input, much appreciated, I think I shall save up for a BMC, you all have me convinced.

 

Funny, the question wasn't even anything to do with the BMC CDA yet I am still going to end up buying one....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where have you heard this helmholtz resonator increases torque kev? Im not saying your wrong but I have read that it can increase throttle response, but increase the intake noise?

Also if it does do you know how ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i saw a rolling road comparison once of a car with that resonator in and then run with it removed and it lost 1bhp :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Schrick manifold is a resonator, any well tuned inlet system uses air flow resonance to improve torque at some rev range or another. The best use variable inlet tracts (like the Schrick) to provide resonance assistance at multiple different RPMs, or even better smoothly over a wide range of RPMs (a la BMW vanos).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have you tried Gwent VW ?

I think Im going to go for the custom oe box just to be different. I know people mod there boxs in different ways but Im thinking of running a 2 to 3" round duct up from under the bumper. This will then come up through the carbon canister hole and into the box. Ill be fabricating it from plumbing waste pipes ,angles and bends etc.

Itll be interesting to hear how it sounds!

 

I've designed a cold air feed duct specifically for the deep Corrado front spoiler (no room in the bumper to pass a decent sized pipe through ! ) to do exactly this job ! this will be available as a complete kit , duct, pipe, fittings etc and be suitable for all models. I'll keep everone posted on when they will be available (hopefully not too long). :wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Where have you heard this helmholtz resonator increases torque kev? Im not saying your wrong but I have read that it can increase throttle response, but increase the intake noise?

Also if it does do you know how ?

 

I can vouch for it increasing throttle response.........amd it certainly wasn't the placebo effect of removing it.......tho you ideally have to get rid of the XS plastic inside the airbox to acheive this.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...