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Dave_P

Best way to keep cool

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Hi just wondering what u all would recomend as my best option for keeping the engine bay cool.

 

i`m finishing a g60 conversion on a mk1 cab and was looking at fitting some sprinter vents on the wing to allow cool air to flow straight in to the air induction cone. Then i thought instead of undergoing this body work mod i could possibly get the same results fitting one of those O2 cooler spray kits e.g here..

 

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ ... =DEI080131

 

any thoughts would be greatly welcome..

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Mocal oil cooler is a must for keeping the engine itself cool...

 

Induction wise -

 

Cold air feed

FMIC

Boost return mod

Phelonic spacer on the inlet

Aquamist

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i have already done the boost return deleate, i have a front mounted intercooler and a lower termostat in the water pump. oil cooler is on my list for next spring, but i`m just debaiting whats better, cool air direct to the induction kit or that cold water mist kit ???

 

i think cool air straight to the induction kit would be best as that O2 stuff imo could eventually damage the intercooler fins ??

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Supercharged, can you please explain to me the need and use for a Phelonic Spacer on the Inlet...

 

cheers

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Alrite mate, not sure i spelt that right by the way...

 

I think the idea is to stop the inlet getting heat transfered from the head but Daren's the guy to ask really as to if they make a real difference - I think he was selling them at one point...

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Alrite mate, not sure i spelt that right by the way...

 

I think the idea is to stop the inlet getting heat transfered from the head but Daren's the guy to ask really as to if they make a real difference - I think he was selling them at one point...

 

yuo advised it, but you dont know what it is?

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Ah, you mean a phenolic spacer, right? It's a spacer made of phenolic resin which is a non heat-conducting material, and it fits between the head and the inlet manifold, so it stops heat from the head being transferred to the inlet manifold, which prevents the inlet air being heated up as it passes through it.

 

:)

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you could also do what tvr do and have a large bore tube leading from the upper rear of the engine bay to the underside of the car, as you drive it draws the hot air from the bay and exhausts it under the car.

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Ah, you mean a phenolic spacer, right? It's a spacer made of phenolic resin which is a non heat-conducting material, and it fits between the head and the inlet manifold, so it stops heat from the head being transferred to the inlet manifold, which prevents the inlet air being heated up as it passes through it.

 

:)

 

i know what it is, just wanted mr supercharged to explain it and he couldnt. I find it most entertaining ppl recommending things when they dont have a clue what their talking about.

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i know what it is, just wanted mr supercharged to explain it and he couldnt. I find it most entertaining ppl recommending things when they dont have a clue what their talking about.

 

Of course you are Mr Wisdom himself :lol: Sorry, but those stupid posts slagging each other off on a forum like this, that's what p*sses me off. Let's try and stay cool :-)

 

OK, now I might not be your best friend anymore :lol:, but that's OK :-)

 

Tempest (sorry for playing Mod there for a minute :lol:)

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Yeah nice one there, really encouraging people to help you out in the future!

 

Why does supercharged need to know what it is, to recommend it? All he needs to know is that its been recommended by someone else (darren by the looks of it in this case) and that its works well!!

 

Whats the point in trying to catch people out on here, if you know what the thingamajig is then why are you posting the question???!

We're all friends trying to spread our knowledge and just generally get along, its postings like that that really taint the air

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I also think criticising one of *the* most knowledgeable and helpful forum members (nothing to do with being a mod) on here is a bit uncalled for as well.

 

I know I'm not adding anything to this thread myself but you've hardly been a wealth of knowledge to the OP on this occasion have you?

 

Anyway - keep it friendly and back on topic now please.

 

Thanks

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you could also do what tvr do and have a large bore tube leading from the upper rear of the engine bay to the underside of the car, as you drive it draws the hot air from the bay and exhausts it under the car.

 

surely that can't help much?

 

especially when the engine bay isn't air tight. I think you'd get more air flow through the various paths/gaps around the bonnet and engine bay than sticking a pipe in there?

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['H3R4POR]
you could also do what tvr do and have a large bore tube leading from the upper rear of the engine bay to the underside of the car' date=' as you drive it draws the hot air from the bay and exhausts it under the car.[/quote']

 

surely that can't help much?

 

especially when the engine bay isn't air tight. I think you'd get more air flow through the various paths/gaps around the bonnet and engine bay than sticking a pipe in there?

 

I guess it works like a chimney in a house (but upside down), if I'm reading it correctly.

 

Can't see why it wouldn't add cooling benefit - why would TVR bother afterall if it didn't?

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yeah i can see that working. the fast air under the car would definately draw out still air from under the bonnet.

 

and if it's on a tvr then i reckon it would work - have you ever seen how hot the 5.0 litre V8's get! jeez you could fry an egg on my bro's chimera engine covers!

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I guess it works like a chimney in a house (but upside down), if I'm reading it correctly.

 

it changes the laws of physics and makes heat sink, and cold air rise? :D

 

nah, I can see there being a vacuum effect if the opening of the 'outside end' of the pipe has air passing across it, but I can't see this effecting the air flow as much as the air passing through the front Grill

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or do what chavs, do and remove a headlight and replace it with a cone to channel air right into the induction kit....

Always makes me laugh when cars are missing a headlight for this mod.....

If it's just for track dasy then great but otherwise what's the point!!! :)

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I've got a phenoloic gasket on my G60 (thanks to Steve's advice and him mentioning that he'd got one sat around waiting to fit to his G60) and it really does drop the temp of the inlet manifold by quite a bit...

 

Heat reflective tape on the underside of the inlet manifold, and wrapping the downpipe/exhaust manifold with exhaust tape drops the engine bay temps quite a bit too...

 

Mocal oil cooler and uprated radiator fan (got a pacet one on my G60) will drop the temps a little more, as will the use of water-wetter in the coolant... To be honest, on a MKI golf, there's little point in a wing/bonnet vent... you've got this lovely BIG flat grill on the front of the car that's gonna ram air into the engine bay as you're driving... a little vent is gonna make sod all difference unless you're putting some very clever ducting and the like behind it... ;)

 

The Cryo coolant kit is not a bad idea, but it's better to ensure that your basic setup is sound before fitting one. Sods law will dictate that you run out of CO2 when hammering it and end up overheating your engine due to the basic cooling system not being up to scratch! :lol:

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I'm afraid bonnet vents are the most effective way to expel hot air from engine bays. Same principal as this tube thing TVR use, but works better as the air passing over the bonnet is much colder, hot air rises and all that and it's literally sucked out and blasted into the air stream. Stops the screen freezing in the winter :-) I say "afraid" because bonnet vents are unsightly, unless tasteful ones are carefully grafted into the bonnet. MK1 style vertical slats above the exhaust manifold would work well.

 

The under car method works too as hot air comes in through the grill, flows round the engine, hits the bulkhead and then gets pulled out by the under car air stream. It's just not quite as effective as the bonnet venting method. Works well for the exhaust though. Do several dyno runs on a low tank and the pump overheats and you can melt the tank - purely because there's no air flow.

 

Resin spacers are OK, I suppose. Maybe takes 2 or 3 degrees off the intake charge temp. Got one on my VR and it's hard to say whether it's helping or not tbh. Can't say i've noticed a massive drop in intake temp, other than what the Schimmel inlet does already.

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kevHaywire, I agree about the bonnet vent thing as you've pointed it out, however, I think I need to clarify my post as it appears to be contradictory to what you said... 8)

 

In the original post the question was about using a sprinter vent in the wing to pull cold air into an induction kit... this is gonna make F all difference.

What Kev's on about is venting at the REAR of the bonnet to extract heat from the rear of the engine bay... this will make a difference as Kev says, but (again as he points out) looks crap... :lol:

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if its for track work, then function wins over form - for driving about (in daylight :lol:) then they look pap

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never seen headlights removed for air intakes on the road... yet

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Thanks for the info guys, i do agree with the front grill being big enough to vent loads of air into the engine bay but i have an intercooler the full length of it and then the rad and super charger banged up fairly close behind it. Thats why i was thinking of vents at the wing, and ofcourse a bit of ducting fitted so it channels a direct feed to the induction cone.

 

A bonnet vent was something i thought of.... but scrapped that coz they only look good on a mustang, thats why i was saying what about the O2 spray ? i thought maybe i should concentrate on chilling the air IN the cooler and not b4 it gets in so much.

 

As for the TVR vacum, well, that sounds like a mod thats gona tack quite abit of work and £££.... Any1 more thoughts ?

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