paddy26 3 Posted November 28, 2009 I had a similar problem with mine but it turned out that the n75 was connected wrong. Since your car was boosting fine before i would 1st swap the n75 for a known working one (assuming you are still using a n75). Are you still running the sai, n249 and n112 or have you those deleted? Paddy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mistrall 0 Posted December 6, 2009 just swaped my n75f for a n75c that a freind had and what a diference - guess mine was buggered - tempted to go get a j verient to see the diference :) . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WreckedGecko 0 Posted December 7, 2009 Hi all. As i am looking to buy a 20v t Corrado at the moment, (and this seems to be the place for the 20v! :notworthy:) i thought i would ask ask if there are any well known problem spots to look out for with the conversion? Or is it down to the skill of the person who dropped it in? Also if anyone knows of any straight cars coming up for sale do let me know! Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsilva 0 Posted December 17, 2009 hi there ive just finished my project and i love it my flash red 94 2.016v is now purple and looking good with an audi 20v from an s3 only prob is it kepps spining up every were lol when im doing 70mph on the a12 and put my foot down it just go`s put i get a bit of a smell and some times when you really go 4 it slight bit of smoke is it my cluch i dont no heeeelllllppppp plz many thanks adam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted December 18, 2009 hi there ive just finished my project and i love it my flash red 94 2.016v is now purple and looking good with an audi 20v from an s3 only prob is it kepps spining up every were lol when im doing 70mph on the a12 and put my foot down it just go`s put i get a bit of a smell and some times when you really go 4 it slight bit of smoke is it my cluch i dont no heeeelllllppppp plz many thanks adam Depends on what the smoke smells like? if its a stong acrid smell then its you clutch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted December 18, 2009 Hi all. As i am looking to buy a 20v t Corrado at the moment, (and this seems to be the place for the 20v! :notworthy:) i thought i would ask ask if there are any well known problem spots to look out for with the conversion? Or is it down to the skill of the person who dropped it in? Also if anyone knows of any straight cars coming up for sale do let me know! Thanks! Straight forward conversion really, drops on existing mounts, uses existing gearbox, only fidly bits are engine management and connection the various pipeworks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcocorrado 0 Posted February 5, 2010 Bugger. I'm sat in the local services now with a broken car. Just washed the motor. Driving fine for ten mins. Now all of a sudden it spluttered and was struggling to run. I limped into the services and it sounds like it's wad running on 3. Just about idled. Now it won't even start. It's an agu with qpeng. Any ideas? Recon something is wet? I really am stuck here. Please help lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted February 5, 2010 Sounds like its connected to the washing...check all connectors? where is your air filter? did you get water in there? Really do need to get a QPE'ng help guide going as there are quite a few of us running it. Its not like there are alods of connectors to it really aswell! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcocorrado 0 Posted February 5, 2010 Well what a nice/stupid/obvious surprise. I managed to get a friend with some tools to come out to help take some bits apart. After about an hour we found that we wre getting no fuel. Luckily I had stopped in a petrol station. Put some more fuel in and away she went. Lol. The fuel gauge was stuck on a quarter of a tank and still is. I only drive the car once or twice a week so I didn't know how much fuel I had used. How glad was I. False alarm. Never run out of fuel before lol. On another note, I agree... I qpeng thread would be a great help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scott-mk3 0 Posted February 23, 2010 So after reading through all this i havent quite got the questions i wanted answered as seems alot of you go for the qpeng route. Just a few questions relating to me doing the 20v conversion. Firstly ill be doing it all myself or mates who are into vw's. Done a few vr6 conversions already and not worried about getting stuck in but looking to clear a few things up before getting started. Im going to keep my box from the kr engine and bolt that straight up to the 20v,will the shafts be alright with this power wise as compared to vr shafts im used to the valver ones are tiny(thickness)? Should i fit a vr6 clutch and g60 flywheel? Regarding wiring i do not want to use qpeng and want full oem management. Looking to see if anyone has this running? I want to run a cable throttle and not wanting to mess about with the pedal box,is a certain engine this setup or can throttle bodies be changed? Radiator wise what should i change it to? g60? vr6? will i need a slam panel to change the radiator into or will it bolt to valver slam? I have a few options for engines at the minute so looking guidance which may be the wiser route. Currently 2 mk4 golf engines agu 150bhp versions or also have the option of a tt engine 225bhp. I know ill need the engine,loom,ecu..what else so i need? I see alot have fitted solid front engine mount? this the way to go? No doubt have a few other questions but shall start off there. Cheers in advance :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James H 0 Posted March 1, 2010 I'd go for the AGU. Straight forward wiring. Get the ECU de-coded and you won't need the clocks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kee 0 Posted March 30, 2010 im about to fit an AGU 20vt and i have read this thread and cant seem to find a recomended intercooler size. i dont wanna chop my bumper up jus want a snug fit behind it. Im not going to be running more than the oem 150 for the min on standard ecu. Can anybody suggest a good size that is easily mountable. i have seen 690x140x65mm or 700x180x65 but i thought this might be too small? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blaarado 0 Posted April 2, 2010 Im fitting a AYP engine from a seat ibiza cupra and me head is wrecked over the engine managment side of things. firstly on top of the engine theres some sort of devise thingy it sits on top of the coils and has hoses going to the forge waste gate one to the down pipe and one to the intake mani. iv never seen one of these on any other 1.8t engine let alone on a conversion does anyone out there know wat this is and do i need it for the conversion.Secondly if i go for qpeng do i lose the diognostics with this system as i have the comlete donor car would i be better off using the standard managment and send the ecu to custom code and then theres other questions like about clocks,keys, fuse boxes. Im confident enought to do the engine swap itself but the electrics goes over me head at the moment can anybody help. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kee 0 Posted April 11, 2010 can anybody recomend a clutch/fly wheel set up? Im going to be running a G60 box, so i thought a g60/16v flywheel and a performance vr6 clutch. Can anyone tell me which clutch there running? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted April 30, 2010 The fuel pump on my 20v converted 2.0 16v is quite noisey. I am thinking about just replacing it to be safe, there are 3 on the euro car parts site ones 150 odd quid the other 115 and the last one around 100. My question is it worth uprating it while im on doing it or will the 16v one be ok. Ive read that the standard fuel pumps are good for about 330bhp buit dont know how accurate it is. Also are the pumps noisey on a 16v. You could hear then one on my g60 prime and then it ran silent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slimg60 0 Posted April 30, 2010 16v ones are noisier than G60 ones, I'd only worry if it really sounds like it's struggling. The 16v one on mine is noisier than my G60 pump but not excessivly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted April 30, 2010 Cheers, i have nothing to compare it to really, mite be worth just getting one just incase Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted April 30, 2010 16v has 2 pumps, one inside the tank (lift pump) and one under the car near rear seats drivers side (main pump) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted April 30, 2010 Cheers it sounds like the one outside the car thats making the noise it doesnt sound bad its just a constant whirring noise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted May 1, 2010 Do any of you guys have any photos of your engines around the water temp sender area, I have found a two pin plug with a brown and white wire and a lilac type purple. From what i have read you need the purple for the water temp gauge. It seems i have a live onto this purple that is red and yellow. Does this plug with the two wires need to plug into anything as i cant physiaclly see anything. Sorry for all the questions. I dont have any wiring diagrams so am pretty much working blind :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
db82 0 Posted July 22, 2010 I need help, im in the beginning third of the build, i've got a 1.8 16v rado and im putting a AGU in with g60 flywheel and vr6 clutch, running on QPENG with a K03, but i don't know what radiator to use. QPENG used a 1.3 golf, but state for track days etc go bigger. this is going to be a daily driver until i can get a new run around and use this for weekends and special treats in the week lol. the 1.3 just sounds wrong, just because the connectors are in the right place doesn't mean that the radiator is bigger enough for the job. Please help Thanks Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blue95 0 Posted July 25, 2010 I'd go for a big as rad as possible, vr6 etc or use a genuine 16v one not a sh*tty pattern one from gsf and the like Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted July 25, 2010 Also it may be a case of getting it running and spend money else where and see if it copes which it should do on modest power if you can get a cheap one. Then upgrade as necessary. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
db82 0 Posted July 27, 2010 i have a spare brand new 16v radiator, and im looking to get 200 - 225 bhp from the AGU all depending on turbo, but since this wil be a daily driver for a while, i don't want to blow the head. Does the 16v radiator fit in the engine bay with an AGU? obviously the pipe connections are the wrong side how much of a problem does this make? there is also alot of talk regarding a VR6 with slim line fans??? what fans are these? realisticly what sort of power would i get from a agu with a ko3, using a vr6 clutch and g60 flywheel? it is a given that the engine runs 180 with the qpeng remap but due to the car being precat i can a decat pipe. how will this affect the power? thanks again for any help / guidence Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites