boost monkey 0 Posted September 18, 2011 Top of front members on nearside. Chassis rail has seen better days, as has an old worn PAS tank bracket. Members in the middle. Front mount undone, but left for now. I'll get to it after the bumper is off. OS end of front members. might be able to make out the 191199xxx part number of the rad support which is clearly a mk2 golf item. No PAS Cooler Holes. Glad to see the Copper Nickel and junctions have stood the test of time! I should hope so really as they're just above the gearbox and not really in harm's way! Ghetto tag B-) nearside suspension turret is filthy, but the paint has survived well. I'm looking forward to cleaning the whole bay up soon! Hone marks in bores show that the block is still good...? ....Hmm, maybe not. Some nasty rust scabbing on the top deck. May have been the water pump failure damage over 2 years ago and now rusted. Cyls 2 and 3 look well, although some funny pocked marks on the left piston crown (Cyl 3?) Cyl 1 looks well and was the healthiest of the lot in the compression test. Not surprising really as it's the furthest from the water pump! Cylinder head as I took it off. Looks pretty reasonable - exhaust valves a nice sandy colour same with the spark plugs (3 electrodes....why?) Close up on the Cyl 4 end of the head. Some rusty scabbing seen in the same place. Still hoping this head is reusable. As the Plum sits now. Picked up a new tarp for her which i'm glad to have gotten on today as it's rained this evening! Should keep water out the engine bay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 19, 2011 Excellent. Drivers seat is definitely the best place to store a cylinder head :D I think so, I'm surprised more greasy parts aren't kept on actualy recaro interiors! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alex_G60_Fanatic 0 Posted September 19, 2011 nice work mate! The rust on yours is very similar to mine in it's locations. The front cross member, radiator support panel and battery tray. Not sure about all that being caused by battery acid alone though. Maybe got going with a little spillage but I think that was just a key point on the car for rust to propagate. Wouldn't worry about the storage of parts either BTW... My car was full of bits (and still is as a matter of fact :/ ) will you be doing the head work yourself? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 19, 2011 Yeah, I'll strip the head down myself. When I was in Bim on placement I must have done 1-2 heads a week, so all I need really is a set of valve spring compressors and I'll prob have it stripped bare in an hour. I'm thinking of stripping it and taking it to a machining company to see if the block side is flat or warped. Might turn out more expensive than just buying another head, as they seem to go for about £50 complete. Plus if I do that then I confine myself to the 16v engine. I guess i could always use a 2l block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alex_G60_Fanatic 0 Posted September 19, 2011 £50! It hardly seems worth your time faffing around if you can buy one that cheep! I might even get one at that price... (not sure what ill do with a 16v head but im sure i could think of something!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted September 19, 2011 Good piccies there Jon. Well done for getting stuck in again good and proper after all this time- was getting worried you were gonna ditch her... Exterior paint looks very good. Reckon all that rust is sortable. Pretty sure VW still do the battery tray. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted September 19, 2011 not checked this thread in a while, so its great to see you getting stuck in again. reassuring to see your brake lines still looking pretty fresh too, in spite of it being stood for a while. looks like you're going to get acquainted with a welder! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 19, 2011 £50! It hardly seems worth your time faffing around if you can buy one that cheep! I might even get one at that price... (not sure what ill do with a 16v head but im sure i could think of something!) 16v G60!!!!! :D :D :D that would be 2 in Scotland then! ---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 PM ---------- Good piccies there Jon. Well done for getting stuck in again good and proper after all this time- was getting worried you were gonna ditch her... Exterior paint looks very good. Reckon all that rust is sortable. Pretty sure VW still do the battery tray. Yeah, it's crossed my mind a couple of times in the last 6 months to sell, but convos with you normally knocked some sense into me! She's only worth maybe 2-300 in this state as it's a complete non runner, and would prob get split for parts which would be a real shame. Yeah VW still make the tray.... it's 50 bloomin quid! just for that! would be nicer than just a plate but we'll see how the money goes...! ---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ---------- not checked this thread in a while, so its great to see you getting stuck in again. reassuring to see your brake lines still looking pretty fresh too, in spite of it being stood for a while. looks like you're going to get acquainted with a welder! Thanks aide. Yeah it's nice to get involved after all this time. I'm glad the lines held up aswell, the extra nickel in them makes them a bugger to bend as they're much stiffer but they just corrode far less so I think it's worth it. I need to fill in that T-piece before it gets blocked up with nasty stuff! Yeah, I'll have to take a crash course in Mig welding I think! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 21, 2011 So... tonight could be the night! I have some free time and all I gotta do is pull the bumper and front panel and then the whole lot can come out the front :D looking forward to it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodmax 0 Posted September 21, 2011 Hi ,the battery tray in the red corrado i've broken is good, i would cut it out for you if you get stuck Let me know rod Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 21, 2011 Cheers rod that sounds good. I had saved one from a previous breaker car but I think i tossed it out when I moved house! Cheers, Jon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 22, 2011 So.... last night was interesting! I did start on doing the bumpers, but ran into a problem with the engine mount cross-member 17mm bolts. They're quite a lot higher than the bottom level of the bumper (funnily enough) and so I used a 3/8" drive with extension. But it just wasn't strong enough and I was worried I would break it and then have to replace as it was ProdgalSon's. So I grabbed the 2ft breaker bar and my 1/2" drive set :D... then remembered my last 1/2" drive extension bar snapped on a hub nut when doing the outer CV joint on the C a few years ago. Pants. In the end i hammered the 11/16" Irwin (these numbers giving you a headache too?) over each of the 17mm bolts in turn, and then set about using my 27mm socket on the outside of the bolt gripper and working the breaker bar around diagonally, avoiding various axle stands and the jack. It was pretty tricky but it worked! I got all 4 of them out, and the cross-member dropped off. I didn't realise that the rad support screws to the bottom of the front panel so even though I had got those side bolts off it was still being held in place, well, kinda dangling off those! As the light was going, I packed up and called it a day. Slightly disappointing that I didn't get further, but I guess lots of rusty bolts and not much clearance slowed progress. The little 13mm pilot bolts on either side of the cross member actually sheared! So on one side I have a 13mm bolt without a head kinda sticking out of the offside. More drama! :-/ This also means that the bumper is free to come off, so I hope no-one comes along and pinches it! It is still tarped so it's not obvious besides it's still on it's side plastic brackets so there's no visual evidence that it's not being held into the chassis rails. More updates as and when. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodmax 0 Posted September 22, 2011 Hi ,will try & sort it this weekend,will pm you when ready rod Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 24, 2011 I finally got the engine out today! Well the block and gearbox :D It took me ages to get the bumper off. I finally realised that the inner wing liners were in the way and the worst thing happened - rusted crosshead screws. How in the name of all that is holy do you ever get them off? They're like the ninjas of the VW fastener world. Impossible to beat. I managed to squeeze he bumper edges off past them and then I realised it weights about 7.3 tons. Are you kidding me? Its like a full I-beam in there. After that the front panel was easy peasy, and I quickly remembered that the clutch slave (slave, not gimp) was still attached. I started to ndo the 2 13mm bolts that hold it onto the bellhousing and quickly realised some bumtard decided that you have to remove the box turret to get the cylinder out. Cut to some heaving on the spirally hard line to flexi hose join (technical term)and then the slave is now free. Ironic. Shortly after that I reeeaallly regretted not separating the block from the gearbox, because they were soon on the floor together, rolling about like two stupid heavy things joined at the hip like non-identical siamese twins. Where one twin is an engine block and the other is a gearbox. Ummm... Anyways so I got them apart and stored the gearbox. The block was too heavy to haul by myself so I left it on the floor in the engine bay area, reattached the front panel and bumper loosely with minimal bolts and then retarped the wagon. Not bad for a couple of hours. Looking forward to cleaning up the bay. Oh yeah, the tray rot on the NS goes through to the chassis rail, but I still think it's salvagable. I swept all the crud up on that side and most of it is solid. No I haven't been drinking tonight. Unfortunately. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) So, the first plan for the Plum is to finish the brake lines! I'm going to bend and fit the OSF line which is obviously the shortest and also the NSF which goes from the T-piece and then they're all done. I only have one brand new 280mm calipers and 2 older ones which I bought off Toad's White VR6 about 75 years ago. If I can find another new one then I'll fit both of these. I also want to look at replacing the servo and the brake m/c whilst i'm there. I'll be researching the pros and cons of uprating to a slightly larger item and see what the budget can manage. When that's done the brakes and suspension will be complete, and then I just have to find an engine :D ---------- Post added at 01:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:47 PM ---------- Just found a new Meyle made Brake MC for £30 but it's 4 outlets. Is it worth using all 4 outs to each wheel or just blank up the unused ports? I'm guessing i'll be ok with a 22mm MC even though the front calipers are slightly bigger. Edited October 24, 2011 by boost monkey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted October 30, 2011 I'm also having trouble sourcing a new brake servo. I know it's not something that tends to go wrong, but it'll prob be the only part that's original at the rate that I'm going and I'd just like to grab a new one if I can. No luck through AVS. Not sure I even want to ask VAG for a price! From research, the servo is the 229mm item and the MC is 22.2mm. I'd like to keep them the same at this stage, just like for like. If anyone has any ideas, or knows of a servo that will be a direct fit from another model then please let me know. The servo and mc are 358612107B and 357611019B respectively - although the MC is called a tandem one which I think means it only has 2 outlets. So i'm more likely to go with the 4-outlet Meyle item. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted October 30, 2011 Hi mate, I have a brand new VW MC if you want it (4 outlet) - £75, will be at the RR day. Servo - that will be slightly tricky to find one in good condition tbh... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted October 30, 2011 Cheers Steve! One of the items out of your loft? ;-) I'm not sure i'll make it up to the RR day as it's my birthday weekend but I may still do... Yeah that's what i'm finding so far. It looks a bit grotty currently, and sod's law it'll play up! It's not really an easy thing to get back out with an engine in the way! ---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:22 PM ---------- Should I? Shouldn't I? Brand new ATE mk2-esque brake servo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted November 7, 2011 So I managed to close the bonnet recently and one of the pins locked down onto the slam panel :-/ Seeing as I removed the bonnet release cable about 6 weeks ago does anyone know how I can get the two apart again? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted November 14, 2011 Of course it's not on fire :lol: but if someone could answer that ^^^ which I posted a week ago, it would sure help me to get on with things :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted November 14, 2011 I'm sorry I can't explain myself very well because I havn't done it in ages but you have to find the latch where the bonnet cable goes through, its quite difficult to get to and its just behind the slam panel. Its like a metal loop, then you'll have to get a strong screwdriver or similar and prize it open. If you take a good look you'll know what I mean, sorry its a bit vague! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted November 14, 2011 that's cool, thanks matey! I feel a bit bad about my "Boy Cries Wolf" underhand tactics to get an answer! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted November 14, 2011 so you should! I was genuinely concerned for plums health! Which side is it by the way? If I remember correctly the passenger side is a total unt(copyright) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted November 14, 2011 you have to pull both of the loops as Swiftkid has mentioned inwards, ie towards the middle of the car. You will need a longish screwdriver that doesn't bend easily! Horrible job and hope you manage to keep your grille intact. You may be able to access the loops from under the car - worth a try Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted November 14, 2011 i use the metal rod from within one of the doors, runs from door handle to lock/latch and has perfect hooked ends. getting quite good at it now... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
