_leon_ 0 Posted May 26, 2009 well done, you must be pleased! The leaks weren't at the thermostat housing were they? Sorry I'm not sure about the two questions, interested to hear responses though. Would imagine the fresh engine will pull better on the road once bedded in! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted May 26, 2009 Top work that man :clap: thanks for comp readings, will have to convert to 'old money' to see if similar to mine, I understand that the engine should bed in and compression will improve, will take readings later on. I find mine is running a little warmer too but its probably because the engine is tighter. I had to change the expansion tank top to the later blue one, dont know why it is an issue after rebuild :shrug: Vibration, I trust you have tightened all the engine mounts? Does the six branch manifold have a flexible section to allow for engine movement or is it rigid, that could well cause some vibration I imagine :shock: Hope it continues to go well, there is nothing worse than thinking its all done then having to start again :bad-words: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted May 26, 2009 You're supposed to leave the mounts loose and turn the engine over for a bit so it all settles down on the mounts. I wonder if it could be that causing the vibration? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 26, 2009 More likely to be the issue with Cyl 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted May 26, 2009 Yeah i am quite pleased with it and how it went. Might loosen the mounts off again and try that see if it helps., and also going to take a closer look at the exhaust, think it could well that. Bruny, how much lower was the compression on your cylinder with the dodgy reading?? in my manual it says the max difference is 3 bar, 45psi in english. And minimum compression is 7.5 bar,108.7psi. So they are well within tolerances. More likely to be the issue with Cyl 4 Do you have any suggestions on why it could be low?? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted May 26, 2009 Curiosity got the better of me, tested the compression again after a short run to warm the engine up. Readings were as follows: Cyl 1 - 11.25 Bar Cyl 2 - 11.75 Bar Cyl 3 - 11.00 Bar Cyl 4 - 11.25 Bar Cyl 5 - 11.25 Bar Cyl 6 - 11.5 Bar So the mysterious low compression in cyl 4 has now gone, and the difference in pressure is only 0.75 Bar approx 11 psi. all good! :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted May 27, 2009 Compression was tested before initial startup and read consistantly 185/190 on 1 to 5 but no.2 was showing under 160 psi. I haven't got round to retesting yet but seems to be running ok, will take fresh readings next time I take it out and post up if there is any difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted June 7, 2009 Just a quick update on how its going since the installation. The engine seems to be running fine, i have done over a 100 miles now keeping it under 4000 revs. Had no leaks yet either, of oil or water, which i was expecting to be honest. There is a slight blow on the exhaust somewhere, think its just where the manifold meets the cat and just needs nipping up. Hopefully. Going to dump the oil out of it soon and fill it up with some good stuff, just bought some silkolene. Does anybody agree that about 100 miles ish is about the right time to change the oil afetr a rebuild???? Also finished the inlet manifold and put it on yesterday, im not too sure on it to be honest, might grow on me! See what you think? A few pictures of yesterdays work: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tedman 0 Posted June 7, 2009 looks brilliant mate just need to tidy the leads :notworthy: :salute: i would change the oil but not put the good stuff in till its done more miles mate terry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted June 7, 2009 looks brilliant mate just need to tidy the leads :notworthy: :salute: i would change the oil but not put the good stuff in till its done more miles mate terry Yes the leads are a little untidy, i am going to get some thinner ones that actually fit in the cable trays. Those blue ones are 10mm and are way too thick. Terry, i want your interior!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tedman 0 Posted June 7, 2009 looks brilliant mate just need to tidy the leads :notworthy: :salute: i would change the oil but not put the good stuff in till its done more miles mate terry Yes the leads are a little untidy, i am going to get some thinner ones that actually fit in the cable trays. Those blue ones are 10mm and are way too thick. Terry, i want your interior!!!! Well you can't have it :grin: well done with the rebuild you've got more balls than me hence why i went 24v Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted June 8, 2009 Yum Yum, nice manifold :norty: :D I'd say do another oil change now, but not with silkolene. I'd do at least 500 miles maybe closer to 1000 before changing to the silkolene. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KIPVW 0 Posted June 9, 2009 Wow manifold looks fantastic mate! good effort there :notworthy: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted June 9, 2009 Looking forward to seeing this, hope you can make it to the local meet in July, top work :notworthy: What oil and water temp readings are you getting? I'm showing up to 112 [running with Catrol Magnetex] oil on motorway run at 3250rpm, just thinking it might be a little high! Water showing no more than 90 so dont think it a major issue! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted June 9, 2009 Yeah i hope i can make it, just need to get a little paint work sorted on the car too. My oil temp is quite high too, normal driving its around the 106 mark and motorway 114. My water temp gauge shows high 90's, always has done, i think the gauge is not very accurate. The fans kick in fine so dont think theres a problem. I am thinking about fitting a mocal oil cooler to mine as i would like the oil to sit around the 90's. I know this is not really an option for you as you are keeping the car standard as it came from the factory, which is excellent by the way :notworthy: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KADVR6 0 Posted June 9, 2009 you put the BBS's on yet?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 9, 2009 I wouldn't put silkolene in after just 100 miles either, leave that to 500-1000 miles as CM says. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted June 9, 2009 Thanks for the advice guys. im going to change the oil and filter next week with some fuchs gsf stuff, then after about 500 or so do it again with the silkolene. Karl, no i have not got them on yet, im waiting until i get some suspension, tried one on though and they look well. Will get some pics up when i get the suspension. Been keeping an eye out on the forum for some but nothings come up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WigsVR6 0 Posted June 10, 2009 Very nice build thread Icevoilet you've got great skills that you've demonstrated here. Wish I had them :( . The inlet looks fantastic well worth the effort and finishes off the engine bay nicely. Glad to see an engine being rebuilt and restored and Im sure once its been run in the effort will pay off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted June 14, 2009 Thanks for the comments guys, i have taken the advice and i am saving the silkolene. I changed the oil on friday and i have done about 300 miles this weekend, engine didnt miss a beat. Running slightly warm but nothing major. The next jobs on my list are: 1)Rear beam bushes and stub axles. Had a droning noise ever since i got the car and i think its down to a bent stub axle, rear tyres wearing unevenly ever so slightly. Gets louder the longer you leave it. Had new tyres on and it was quiet for a while and now is getting noisy again. 2)Buy and fit new suspension set up, probably coilovers. 3)Put 288mm brakes on front which i have already got and refurbished. Braided hoses all round. 4)Ding in front wing removed and re-painted, also panel under tailgate needs new paint, rust bubble and rust around the wels seam on the back. After all that im going to try leave it alone for a while. Will that ever happen???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 14, 2009 Sounds like a good to do list there. Not sure if we can ever leave it alone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted June 28, 2009 Done some work over the weekend on the car and have managed to cross a few items of my list: 1)Paintwork tidied up last week 2)New stub axles, bearings, discs, splash shields, braided brake hose on rear 3)AP Coilovers on 4)New wheels on So all i need to do now is get the rear beam bushes done and fit the 288 brakes. I have already got the braided hoses for the rear, and I am wanting to buy the front braided hoses for the 288 but can't find anywhere that sells them on their own?? Can anybody help me out with that???? The engine seems to be running fine still, only thing is the exhaust sounds to be blowing, sounds like its coming from the manifold area, hope its not cracked or something, took me ages to wrap it!!! :mad2: I need to get some pictures up of the car with the new wheels and suspension on but my girlfriend is on holiday and has taken my camera with her. Ill get some up when i get hold of a camera. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ADZ_VR6 0 Posted June 28, 2009 Looks good with the new wheels on :clap: , can u not get in touch directly with goodridge for the hoses? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted June 28, 2009 May have some braided hoses for the front, bought from a guy at one of the shows and it turns out they dont fit the standard setup, will dig them out and post a photo if you like, got to be worth a try :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted June 28, 2009 if Bruny can't help you then Goodridge do deal direct with the public. their phone number is 01392 369090. as for the blowing put an old wallet or something similar over the tailpipe exit to almost seal it up and that will make the blow much more pronounced if there is one - you'll be able to tell much easier then and where it's coming from too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites