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Aqua blue pearl VR - p.34 bonnet cable repair

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Also put in the LHS rear foglight bulb - popped out the blinding disc in the light housing and fitted a new bulb although might look for some led replacements.

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Long gap on updates, nothing spectacular though - finally popped the bonnet open and replaced the bonnet cable and mech with a tandem cable. I used the original cable than runs across the slam panel only because it has two plastic collars on the end which slot into the retainer brackets.

 

List of items was from an earlier thread - i'll dig it out again and send the appropriate thanks! IN essence it was a tandem cable, oversheath, ferrules for the end of the oversheath, a cable tensioner and a locking clamp plus a small end clip to put on the end of the cable (which i need to do)

 

I also used an l-shaped steel bracket, drilled out on of the holes and screwed it to the handle mech. Does away with that silly clamp that always breaks.

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Also redid the fuel pipe repair i had done a few weeks back - this time i fitted the brass barbs onto the blue fuel pipe heating the pipe in a mug of hot water and pressing the pipe onto the barb. I wasn't really happy with the first one

Constant tension clamps were used (not jubilees) You could also use the double eared clamps - i only used one as there was already a constant tension clamp there.

 

Hope the sizes and images help anyone who has a split fuel pipe. Its a nice easy job, but just takes time to do. Much easier than replacing the pipe

Edited by fla

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Nice bonnet fix... I heard that you can put an emergency pull cord somewhere in the mechanism. So if it fails you have a way of opening it from inside the grille

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Yes i was going to do.one but didn't have enough cable. But it shouldn't be too hard. Will post up some pics when its done

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it would be good to get an emergency bonnet opening system in place - my cable broke last year and of course broke the grille trying to get it open

Have a new grille but i am afraid to fit it as iam waiting for the cable to fail again!!

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Yes i was going to do.one but didn't have enough cable. But it shouldn't be too hard. Will post up some pics when its done

 

Look forward to the solution

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Here's my fan loom which is wired so that there's one fan on stage 1 and both on stages 2&3.

 

I haven't sealed up the diode yet as i want to check that they do indeed both come on as required.

 

I didn't take a photo with the plastic retaining clip in the end of the connector - but its the opposite of that on the main harness from the fan control module.

 

Both connectors were replaced with the ones from a Mk5 golf, while the other end has a pair of superseal connectors.

 

Its a slightly fiddly job, getting the lengths right and arranging the wiring properly.

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just need to check my recently replaced starter as every so often it tends to make an unnerving bang and the car does not turn over - i suspect that the solenoid must be shorting somewhere but when its off i'll know more. Strange, as its a Bosch unit (albeit from GSF)

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Nice bonnet fix... I heard that you can put an emergency pull cord somewhere in the mechanism. So if it fails you have a way of opening it from inside the grille

 

I have a piece of wire wrapped around each of the releasing rods that the trumpets pull against. These hang out of the way each side of my grille and with some clever hooking, can be fished through the grille. A pull on each releases each side. Works for me and there for an emergency

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I have a piece of wire wrapped around each of the releasing rods that the trumpets pull against. These hang out of the way each side of my grille and with some clever hooking, can be fished through the grille. A pull on each releases each side. Works for me and there for an emergency

 

Was thinking similar...do you have a picture..

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just need to check my recently replaced starter as every so often it tends to make an unnerving bang and the car does not turn over - i suspect that the solenoid must be shorting somewhere but when its off i'll know more. Strange, as its a Bosch unit (albeit from GSF)

 

Looks like this was the starter solenoid cable that was shorting at two points. Not sure how the insulation got cut though..

Lesson learned - if you buy a used harness always remove all insulation tape and inspect thoroughly!

Edited by fla

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I have a piece of wire wrapped around each of the releasing rods that the trumpets pull against. These hang out of the way each side of my grille and with some clever hooking, can be fished through the grille. A pull on each releases each side. Works for me and there for an emergency

 

Did an emergency release for my bonnet this morning... need to hide the wires a bit better as you can see them through the grill but they work

Edited by delfinis38

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Did an emergency release for my bonnet this morning... need to hide the wires a bit better as you can see them through the grill but they work

 

Well done mate. Simple but effective

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Well done mate. Simple but effective

 

 

May chop the wires down and attach cord to either end of the wire and attach the cord to the underside of the slam panel. May look neater.

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Here's my fan loom which is wired so that there's one fan on stage 1 and both on stages 2&3.

 

I haven't sealed up the diode yet as i want to check that they do indeed both come on as required.

 

I didn't take a photo with the plastic retaining clip in the end of the connector - but its the opposite of that on the main harness from the fan control module.

 

Both connectors were replaced with the ones from a Mk5 golf, while the other end has a pair of superseal connectors.

 

Its a slightly fiddly job, getting the lengths right and arranging the wiring properly.

 

Just an update on the fan loom. Instead of the slight drop in revs with both coming on its almost unnoticeable. One fan is actually enough and quiet enough to not be intrusive. Don't think I've had both fans come on yet

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A couple of small jobs - rear c panel support pin snapped off 10 years ago! Still kept hold of it and refitted by using a self tapping bolt 19mm in length. Cut the head off and screwed one end into the panel and then the pin tightened on top.

Repaired some splits using mesh and a soldering iron to heat.

Put a layer of damplifier on the headliner and then covered with felt - felt is hard to cut neatly!

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Mk4 rear brakes done. Changed the carriers too. New seals, slider pins and refurbed calipers. Hex head bolts were really rusted in. Even the irwins had a tough time! Access each side was awkward meaning the breaker bar wasnt allowed much movement. Passenger side bolts were cracked off using a short socket with a stilson at 90degrees providing the turning moment. I'll prob do the discs, bearings and cages next year. 

Btw Dox i found the old calipers from you. Might be a new project to strip and rebuild them!

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Well done fla. 

the ends on the handbrake cables seem too small for those calliper handbrake bracket though. The gap for those cable ends should only be about 3-4mm, just big enough for the cable to pass through. I bought a couple of return springs for a fiver too, easy enough to clip on and don’t half make the handbrake mech feel sorted0723E2DA-CDFB-4CF1-A2E0-F10EC0394127.thumb.jpeg.5be1c8f0b85baeb36545523b8b285982.jpeg

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Corrado cable ends on the left or like mine can be just a ball. I think the brackets on the callipers you have are for cables shown on the right, where a bigger gap is required.  It’s a bloody mine field sometimes. 
 

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Good info Shaun, thanks. Yes I'll get some of those springs. Looks a good idea. 

I pressed the faces of the cable bracket together slightly to make sure the cable doesn't drop out. Haven't tried it yet as the next job is underway now! - front top mounts

Hasan

 

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