RELAY 109 CLICKING!!!!!!

[balboa 0]

Hi guys.... have a mk2 2.9 vr6.....as i went to start the car today there was a very quick fairly loud ticking noise coming from relay number 109...pulled it out and back in then stopped....however its come back but as soon as i turn car on noise goes.....is it just a faulty relay...or anything else....

 

as always any help and advice very much appreciated.

 

thanks!!!

[Supercharged 2]

Change the relay - may be the original one!

[fla 9]

yep change it asap if its clicking; its for the ecu and it will cause your car to stop anywhere at any time....

[balboa 0]

thanks chaps....gonna get it sorted 1st thing int morning....

 

 

thanks again

[dr_mat 0]

Of course, it *should* click once when you turn the ignition on .... and once again when you turn the ignition off ....

 

Any more than that and it's either faulty or you have a dodgy ignition switch or a very low battery.

[jamin 0]

I know this is an old thread but I currently have the same symptoms with my Corrado and I cannot work out why.

 

The engine turns over fine, 109 ECU relay clicks on/off like mad, no apparent spark, but I can smell fuel in the exhaust.

 

Tried bridging the relay but still nothing.

 

Tried a new relay, same clicking.

 

The battery holds just over 10 volts when cranking, which I think is reasonable - I've tried a brand new battery and that made no change.

 

I've connected it up to VCDS and no fault codes are reported.

 

I'm guessing maybe ignition switch, or some fault with the connection to the ECU?

 

Can anybody advise what I might try next?

 

Thanks

 

Ben

[Dox 22]

When you say bridged the relay, what exactly do you mean?

[jamin 0]

When you say bridged the relay, what exactly do you mean?

 

I mean I wrapped some wire around the terminals to effectively hold the circuit closed - like what the relay should be doing.

[Dox 22]

I mean I wrapped some wire around the terminals to effectively hold the circuit closed - like what the relay should be doing.

 

The usual way to do that is a short length of wire with a male spade at each end and a suitable fuse between, remove the relay and plug the wire into the high current (30 and 87?) side of the relay plate replicating the relay.

 

This is just for testing purposes only, not for a journey to work or the shops!

 

Research the relay properly before you bridge the relay plate, don't blame me if the car bursts into flames!

Edited September 16, 2015 by Dox

[jamin 0]

The usual way to do that is a short length of wire with a male spade at each end and a suitable fuse between, remove the relay and plug the wire into the high current (30 and 87?) side of the relay plate replicating the relay.

 

This is just for testing purposes only, not for a journey to work or the shops!

 

Research the relay properly before you bridge the relay plate, don't blame me if the car bursts into flames!

 

Ha! I only tried it briefly, a couple of turns of the key at best. I won't be driving anywhere because it won't start :-(

 

I've tried a new relay and it still has the same symptoms as before.

Edited September 17, 2015 by jamin

[Dox 22]

Ha! I only tried it briefly, a couple of turns of the key at best. I won't be driving anywhere because it won't start :-(

 

I've tried a new relay and it still has the same symptoms as before.

 

So was there clicking with the relay removed and relay plate bridged?

[jamin 0]

So was there clicking with the relay removed and relay plate bridged?

 

No. I guess I need to find out why the relay is clicking in the first place.

[Dox 22]

No. I guess I need to find out why the relay is clicking in the first place.

 

Bridged it didn't start?

 

Crank it then remove a spark plug to see if it's wet with fuel

[jamin 0]

Bridged it didn't start?

 

Crank it then remove a spark plug to see if it's wet with fuel

 

No :-(

 

I'll give that a try. The car is garaged and after a couple of tries there is a strong smell of petrol at the back which (I hope) is from the exhaust, so I think fuelling is ok.

 

Thanks for the quick response, appreciated.

[Dox 22]

Easy way to check for a spark single handed using a jump lead, the other end is earthed on the block

 

[Dox 22]

Its pins 30 and 87 you bridge for the relay, I've edited my post, can you edit your quote of my post please?

[1xshaunx1 27]

If you've changed the relay and the ignition switch I would try changing the ignition barrel next, if it is worn through lots of use and or on a nice big bunch of keys it can have the same symptoms as the other two. But having said that, could also be a dodgy wire from the fuses to the pump. When the relay clicks can you here the pump prime?

[jamin 0]

Its pins 30 and 87 you bridge for the relay, I've edited my post, can you edit your quote of my post please?

 

Done!

 

If you've changed the relay and the ignition switch I would try changing the ignition barrel next, if it is worn through lots of use and or on a nice big bunch of keys it can have the same symptoms as the other two. But having said that, could also be a dodgy wire from the fuses to the pump. When the relay clicks can you here the pump prime?

 

I've not tried the ignition switch yet, can you still get them from VAG?

 

It does sound like the pump is priming - relay 67 clicks over fine. Also, there is a big smell of fuel from the exhaust after a few turns, so seems like fuel is going in.

 

There is definitely no spark so that's where I am going to concentrate my efforts for now.

 

Thanks

[easypops 8]

Ignition switch can be bypassed to rule in or out

 

http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?3167-Emergency-Ignition-Switch-Bypass&highlight=Ignition%20bypass%20Hotwire

[fendervg 30]

You need to trace the path of the spark then - if the starter turns, then there should be current going to the ignition system. This is usually battery/alternator>ignition amplifier>ignition amplifier>distributor>spark plug wires>spark plug. Or something like that. Do a test with a spark plug to the block as described above first on each plug - this will save you having to work the other way and will rule in or rule out the whole system. If you don't have a spark at the plug, work your way back up the line. You may have a coil pack instead of a distributor, depending on engine version.

 

A faulty crank position sensor will also cause a no start scenario, even with fuel and spark present. But check for spark at the plugs first, then at the distributor etc. someone else will no doubt correct me on this!

[jamin 0]

Lovely, thanks chaps. I'll give these both a try too.

[Jamie 1]

Lovely, thanks chaps. I'll give these both a try too.

 

I had similar symptoms with my car and it was the ecu grounding on the chassis as one of the rubber feet was split. Not sure which realy it was that was clicking though.

[jamin 0]

I had similar symptoms with my car and it was the ecu grounding on the chassis as one of the rubber feet was split. Not sure which realy it was that was clicking though.

 

Dood - this was it!!!

 

I removed the ECU from its mounts and rested it off the chassis and tick, tick, BOOM! Fired straight into life. I can't believe this was it. There was no plastic washer where the mount with the nut is. Completely gone!

 

I'll take a trip to the garage tomorrow to see if I can get another washer/mount thingy.

 

Thanks to everyone for their input!

[1xshaunx1 27]

Good stuff. Nice n cheap fix too

[Jamie 1]

Dood - this was it!!!

 

I removed the ECU from its mounts and rested it off the chassis and tick, tick, BOOM! Fired straight into life. I can't believe this was it. There was no plastic washer where the mount with the nut is. Completely gone!

 

I'll take a trip to the garage tomorrow to see if I can get another washer/mount thingy.

 

Thanks to everyone for their input!

 

Awesome! I was expecting the more knowledgeable types to say no it won't be that, this is a different type of fault if I'm honest. Glad it worked :)