VR6 bad idle and stalling probs!!

[Loubyvr6 0]

i hope someone can help me, im getting realy fed up with my car now, 93 VR6.

ok, about 6 weeks ago i started having probs with her stalling when i went down my gears, and being very reluctent to start again. When she did start she stank of fuel, ran lumpy and wouldnt keep a steady idle speed.

so i replaced the spark plugs, ht leads, coilpack, fuel filter, gave her an oil and filter change, and cleaned the isv.

Although this did make the engine pick up better it didnt sort the stalling.

So i bought a vag-com, it threw up 3 codes: the coolent temp sensor, engine speed sensor, and lambda sensor.

I replaced the engine speed and coolant temp sensors and left the lambda to see if it was the other 2 sensors causing that one to give the fault code, the car ran ok for 2 days then back to her idleing and stalling probs.

The vag-com is now throwing the coolant temp sensor fault again, and lambda sensor fault, lambda doesnt come up every time after i reset the fault codes so ive asumed that one isnt the problem, ive now replaced the coolant temp sensor twice, but imediatly got that fault come up again on the vag com!

my engine is getting rather rattley, could it be on the way out?

 

any help or suggestions would be greatfuly appreciated, as i havent got the spare cash to take it to stealth for them to look at for a few more weeks.

[ozowen 2]

I can't really help you in pinpointing the problem. All I can say is reading through the forums and experiencing it myself you either by luck find the problem or learn to live with it. Mine ain't so severe I get occasional stalling on slowing right down i.e coming to a giveway roundabout etc. I had it changed all the likely suspects, it went away, then appeared, got worse and now is better but still stalls. I think this is the worst type as there is no pattern to it. 5 days no stalling then 1 day maybe 2 stalls then maybe 9 days without. I hope one day it will clear (probably by luck).:cuckoo: good news is there are lots of links here and people with the knowledge to help you. :grin: :clap:

 

Just to let you know you are not alone, Corrado ownership is frustrating but oh so rewarding too :grin:

[Walesy 0]

Where are you buying the sensors from?

[Neil VR6 0]

A new MAF solved those problems for me. I can't recall if VAGCOM picks up specific MAF faults. You can test whether the MAF is working by measuring the resistance of the current as you boot the throttle. The resistance should shoot up as the air gets sucked in. If you only see a slight increase - your MAF's dead.

[millerman 0]

sounds like you could also do with changing the fuel pressure regulator and have you checked the vaccum tubes around the throttle body ?

both can cause bad idle problems and get some electrical cleaner and clean the MAF but remember to unplug it first and give it 20 seconds to cool down

if you do it after driving !

[bigrichi 0]

Could also check the wiring for the coolent sensor.

Mines kept saying dodgy sensor and turned out to be dodgy earths.

I believe the wiring can start to get brittle and break with old age which can cause problems.

 

This probably wont help with stalling but maybe help with starting

 

Honestly tho it could be any one of a million things :(

[Reggit 0]

Check the wiring to your temp sensors as the fault returned after changing it.

 

A duff lambda will make the car run like poo, it will also drink lots of petrol. I'd be at least looking at the wiring around and to the sensor, and would probably change the sensor if the wiring appears good.

 

And to be the bearer of bad news, vagcom will always throw the engine speed sensor if the engine isn't running.

[swiftkid 1]

another idea for you, this requires no money to be spent!

 

take out the fuel rail (with injectors still attached, but be careful not to damage the seals) then put some cloth down and then turn the car over, see if one injector is constantly injecting. My car was using tonnes of petrol and stinking of it, running lumpy and white smoke out the exhaust. Turned out the ecu was poorly and causing one injector to stay open constantly.

[Loubyvr6 0]

thanks for all the sujestions

walsey the sensors came from gsf

 

i did think it might be wiring on the sensor that was problem with fault returning, had a quick look but couldnt see any probs with it, ill have a better look in the morn, will also check the maf, and lambda, someone also sujested it could be a faulty isv but im not gona buy any more parts, just check what youve all sujested then take it to stealth as i could end up wasteing more money on parts i dont need lol

 

its strange that as much of a pain in the arse she is i still love her, ive even taken to sweet talking her every time i use her in the hope she will give me some love back, but it never seems to work :epicfail: lmao

oh the joys of owning a corrado :roll:

[Deluxe 0]

Hi,

 

This may be of some help, I'll let you decide...

I was having very simliar problems with my '93 VR6 until recently. It wouldn't idle from cold, was running very very rich (20MPG), and would stall and not idle if sat in traffic and getting hot for a while.

After new isv, spark plugs, MAF and temp sensors there was no change (apart from better running marginally after new isv). The car failed MOT on emissions, so i had to spend some time on it. I changed the Lambda sensor (easy job surprisingly), and while doing this noticed that the signal wire on the car side of the connector was broken, as well as this the (knock?) sensor on front of the engine by the oil cooler had a split lead between it and the car. After fixing these the car flew threw it MOT and has shown none of the problems i was experiencing.

 

 

Like I said, might not be of any help, but i know the feeling of having a problematic engine, and its worth a check!

 

Nick

[Loubyvr6 0]

Hi,

 

This may be of some help, I'll let you decide...

I was having very simliar problems with my '93 VR6 until recently. It wouldn't idle from cold, was running very very rich (20MPG), and would stall and not idle if sat in traffic and getting hot for a while.

After new isv, spark plugs, MAF and temp sensors there was no change (apart from better running marginally after new isv). The car failed MOT on emissions, so i had to spend some time on it. I changed the Lambda sensor (easy job surprisingly), and while doing this noticed that the signal wire on the car side of the connector was broken, as well as this the (knock?) sensor on front of the engine by the oil cooler had a split lead between it and the car. After fixing these the car flew threw it MOT and has shown none of the problems i was experiencing.

 

 

Like I said, might not be of any help, but i know the feeling of having a problematic engine, and its worth a check!

 

Nick

 

Thanks Nick, im hopeing to have a good look at the car tomorow so shall put this on the list of thigs to do, she is running rich and the stalling is when shes both hot and cold, and im sure she will fail MOT on emissions, so want to get it sorted before then, i have a feeling the problem is with the wiring somewere as it is a mess, just hope it doesnt rain tomorow now lol

[Loubyvr6 0]

thought id put a update on the car, she went to stealth last week to see if they could sort the problem as id gave up on it, it turns out that the plug for the coolent temp sensor and the one for the fan sensor next to it had been pluged in the wrong way round by the rubbish people that did the warranty work, so such a simple thing that caused all my problems.

im so happy to finaly have her up and running again :clap:

[hodaz 0]

The advantage of having a good local specialist nearby :D

 

After reading this thread I think I need to change my Lambda Sensor, car is finally going ok but does run a bit rich, and returns not so great MPG. Last time it had Vagcom on it the two problems that came up where Engine Speed Sensor (always does after reading this) and Lambda.