Keyo 47 Posted May 24, 2019 (edited) Thanks for the advice all. The Cabmasters are old Ford stock apparently, spoke to the guy yesterday, intended for the Galaxy/Sharan - not sure what code they are. Price is also now £1k which is a bit less palatable than the £700-800 that I am sure it was when Jim got his. With the need to strip it down and give it a once over as well, I think I may rule out that option unless all else fails. Don't like the sound of putting a "Ford" engine in the Corrado either! Agree, some expert advice is needed, think I will give Vince a call. Sadly I am nowhere near Stealth (London) so difficult to take it along in person, but hopefully he'll be able to give a steer from the photos. This is the same for me as well, so would be my preferred option if it is practical! You never know mate he might be able to put an engine block together for you and send it out on a pallet , they are all over his workshop and you can keep the original engine as a spare . Edited May 24, 2019 by Keyo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted May 24, 2019 Spoke to Vince and he didn't seem overly concerned with the damage to the head as long as there is a seal around it. He says they've come across it plenty of times, and was generally caused by a combination of the old G11 coolant/anti-freeze and the quality of alloy used in the head not getting along. Reckoned they'd be able to refurb that fine. Also said if the honing had worn the only real solution would be re-boring, which is as suspected, and that just re-honing in their experience wasn't worth the trouble. Also reckoned it was unlikely to cause issues further down the line, and they've never experienced issues with re-bored engines. So all in all, I think I'll go down that route. Keeps the original engine in the bay which is a major plus for me. Money I wasn't really expecting to spend, but there we go... but worth doing it right. Just have to sort a way to get it up to Stealth now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keyo 47 Posted May 24, 2019 (edited) That's the way I would go , remember if you drove off in a new BMW today in a years time you would of lost up to 10k in depreciation so chin up, unless you tell me you got a new BMW today as well. :bonk: Could ask pallet line to collect ? Edited May 24, 2019 by Keyo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted May 28, 2019 No, no BMWs! I think I should be able to borrow a car to run them up in so that should sort that. Seems preferable to go there in person whilst they inspect the bits... it's almost a pilgrimage! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted July 25, 2019 (edited) Right, so it's out! Found a fair amount of debris in the sump including a couple of bits of plastic. No idea where they've come from... So will probably open up the oil pump and just make sure everything is all ok. Have started tidying up the engine bay, gonna re-wrap all the wiring, give everything a solid clean and repaint the battery tray. Only downside is I managed to break the lower timing chain cover... just the bit in the corner. It was stuck on a rusted peg and wouldn't budge, gave it a bit of brute force and it snapped around the edge. It's a tiny bit just around the edge, but pretty annoying having to replace bits unnecessarily. Anyway, taking it up to Stealth on Monday. Quite excited! Edited July 25, 2019 by oneohtwo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mooG60 11 Posted July 25, 2019 Found a fair amount of debris in the sump including a couple of bits of plastic. No idea where they've come from... So will probably open up the oil pump and just make sure everything is all ok. The plastic bits could well be from the plastic dipstick guide. Pieces of the unseen portion that slots into the metal tube can break off and drop down to the sump. Nothing to worry about but worth replacing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted August 19, 2019 Following your journey with interest, as you know I've just finished my mechanical work on mine. Fair play on you getting the engine out and to Vince. My tensioner had started to disintegrate and bits would have found their way to the sump. Vince wasn't that worried about it and said there is a fine guaze on the oil pump feed to protect from stuff like this. I was up there on Friday and Vince was working on a head on the bench so could be yours. That said he's got a lot of engines in the shop so difficult to tell! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted August 29, 2019 Ah nice, they rang me not too long ago so it seemed progress was going well. Hopefully won't be too long now! Currently just doing some tidying of the engine bay, sorting some rust under the battery tray and the rad support and just general cleaning. Had the oil pump apart and all looked in decent condition, no scoring marks so that's good. I've gone for the 263s as well, looking forward to seeing the difference! Did have a look to see if there were other little tweeks here and there that might be worth playing with, but it does seem like the 263s are the only thing that makes a difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted September 8, 2019 Slight hiccup in the project. I've set about trying to tidy up the engine bay, dealing with a bit of rust here and there and generally smartening. Came to the rad support, and had a plan to deal with a large bulge of rust that had formed in the middle of the upper and lower sections. It's been there since I had the car, so not a great surprise. Plan was to cut it out and effect a small repair... unfortunately, it was rather larger than hoped. Cut most of it out but it still keeps going and it's in a difficult area to repair that is probably beyond the resources I have at my disposal. So I have decided just to replace the whole member. It was that horrible layered flaky stuff that just keeps growing, that was only going to get worse so I don't have any regrets about removing it, but struggling to find a replacement part! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted September 22, 2019 Spent a couple of long evenings re-wrapping the entire wiring loom in the engine bay: Looks an absolute mess but hopefully will look smart once it's all back in. Although already noticed some ends of the tape coming off which isn't great. used a Tesa tape which seemed good quality so bit disappointing. Have wrapped those bits with extra again so hopefully holds. Also been de-rusting some of the battery tray on the right of the photo, I have to say very impressed with the Bilt Hamber Deox Gel - A rust remover that actually seems to work. Had a big spot under the lip at the back that I couldn't sand off, so shoved some under, left it for a day, and it's just shiny metal there now. Was genuinely surprised! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 20 Posted September 22, 2019 Bilt Hamber do make some fantastic products, there car cleaning gear is great. How do you manage to post pics? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted September 23, 2019 I'm posting them from my onedrive account. I have a Windows phone which automatically uploads all my photos to onedrive, and then that gives me the option to generate html code to embed into the post with the img tags. Works quite well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted November 2, 2019 (edited) Engine is ready at so need to go and pick it up! Exciting times. In the meantime I've been making some progress on tidying bits and pieces up. Finished the battery tray recently: To: Got rid of all the dirt, bits of old wax and dealt with all the rust. Not a perfect job, not going to bother flattening it or anything as it's just the battery tray, but a lot nicer than it was and something that has always bugged me so pretty happy. Edited November 2, 2019 by oneohtwo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted November 2, 2019 Your battery tray looks gorgeous. Mine did, then I covered it in waxoyl...for protection. Just a thought Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted November 3, 2019 Your battery tray looks gorgeous. Mine did, then I covered it in waxoyl...for protection. Just a thought Thanks! I am undecided on this to be honest... seems a shame to cover it up, but as you say added protection. On the other hand I am expecting to use it a lot less than over it's previous life so it might be ok and it's got a good few protective layers on: covering of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 initially just to neutralise any remaining rust but it seems to create a pretty tough barrier (as I found trying to sand down a couple of runs!). Then overcoated with a few layers of Hammerite stone chip which I have found pretty good in the past. Easier to keep clean as well! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted November 12, 2019 Battery tray looks great! Were the corrado's originally waxoiled? My engine and battery tray is covered in wax. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keyo 47 Posted November 12, 2019 Battery tray looks great! Were the corrado's originally waxoiled? My engine and battery tray is covered in wax. Yes mate in several places around the car there are slabs of wax including the battery tray, once it starts to break up I think it's best to remove it because the water gets trapped underneath the wax so causes more harm than good IMO. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted November 14, 2019 Yeah, exactly. That's what I found when removing it, it was pretty cracked up where it had dried out. Traps the dirt as well. Having said that, most of the tray was in decent nick in fairness so the waxoyl had done it's job, was just the areas bashed by the battery and the bracket for the slam panel that were bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted November 18, 2019 Right, engine is back from Stealth and on the stand: Bores rebored and honed, with oversized Mahle pistons, and new bearings. And block cleaned and smartened up with new paint job. Just hammerite black, but it actually looks a bit gun-metal grey which I quite like, rather than a full gloss black. Head also back and smartened up: Had another reskim, the areas of pitting will remain isolated. Had a full rebuild, valves cleaned up and re-seated, guides re-done. Plus a few bits which I've been cleaning up ready to go back on: Still plenty to go! Major items still to get replaced/reconditioned are: - alternator to be refurbed - new starter - injectors refurbed. But these won't be needed for a while. Otherwise all pretty well ready to go back together. Going on holiday for 2 weeks though, so unfortunately will have to wait a while to get going on it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted November 18, 2019 just fantastic! The only thing will be having to watch the right foot as you run your new engine in... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keyo 47 Posted November 18, 2019 Right, engine is back from Stealth and on the stand: Bores rebored and honed, with oversized Mahle pistons, and new bearings. And block cleaned and smartened up with new paint job. Just hammerite black, but it actually looks a bit gun-metal grey which I quite like, rather than a full gloss black. Head also back and smartened up: Had another reskim, the areas of pitting will remain isolated. Had a full rebuild, valves cleaned up and re-seated, guides re-done. Plus a few bits which I've been cleaning up ready to go back on: Still plenty to go! Major items still to get replaced/reconditioned are: - alternator to be refurbed - new starter - injectors refurbed. But these won't be needed for a while. Otherwise all pretty well ready to go back together. Going on holiday for 2 weeks though, so unfortunately will have to wait a while to get going on it! Good stuff mate did they get bored out to 3 liters . Surely that should increase bhp from stock figures by a little. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted November 19, 2019 Looking good! any performance bits going on at the same time? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted November 19, 2019 (edited) just fantastic! The only thing will be having to watch the right foot as you run your new engine in... Thanks! Yeah I know... I don't do big miles in it these days so the run in period might be quite drawn out! Have to plan a few long cruises... From memory, I'm sure Vince said they are bored out to a true 2.9l rather than 3.0l, but I'm not hundred percent sure now. The stock size is 2860cc I think, and the boring for the 82.5mm pistons takes it to either 289Xcc or just over 2.9l, so 29XXcc. I'll have to check with Vince again. You'd think I'd remember that, but the memory doesn't appear to be what it used to be. Got some 263 cams lined up, and the vibratechnics front mount! No other performance parts to go on. I have looked around, and from what I've read and speaking to Vince, I'm not sure there really are any others, apart from maybe a BMC air filter, that will bolt straight on to the NA engine and make much difference performance wise. Edit: Yep, just done the sums. Stock is 82mm x 90.3mm stroke or thereabouts which gives 2861cc. Bored to 82.5mm gives 2896cc. So more a true 2.9l Edited November 19, 2019 by oneohtwo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 19, 2019 Thanks! Yeah I know... I don't do big miles in it these days so the run in period might be quite drawn out! Have to plan a few long cruises... From memory, I'm sure Vince said they are bored out to a true 2.9l rather than 3.0l, but I'm not hundred percent sure now. The stock size is 2860cc I think, and the boring for the 82.5mm pistons takes it to either 289Xcc or just over 2.9l, so 29XXcc. I'll have to check with Vince again. You'd think I'd remember that, but the memory doesn't appear to be what it used to be. Got some 263 cams lined up, and the vibratechnics front mount! No other performance parts to go on. I have looked around, and from what I've read and speaking to Vince, I'm not sure there really are any others, apart from maybe a BMC air filter, that will bolt straight on to the NA engine and make much difference performance wise. I had 263's dropped in during my head rebuild & also went for the BMC - with a Vince remap & a good free flowing exhaust id guesstimate you would end up around the 220-225 mark FYI the BMC sounds awesome!! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted November 19, 2019 I had 263's dropped in during my head rebuild & also went for the BMC - with a Vince remap & a good free flowing exhaust id guesstimate you would end up around the 220-225 mark FYI the BMC sounds awesome!! :D Me to (263s, Vince re-map + exhaust) and rolling roaded at 220bhp. Highly recommended. I remember the 263s giving a lot more mid range oomph but it feels normal now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites