Was, Schrick VGI GB, now show us yours!

[corradovr6sc 0]

I'll give Vince a call tommorrow and see if he can find my missing letters.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

a mix up?

 

Tell me about it, Stealth managed to refit my old top mounts this week, leaving the nice new ones on the floor in the back of the car. Still, I do enjoy an excuse to drive 170 miles... NOT!

 

Matt, Vince reads these forums.

 

How can you not enjouy a thrash down the Banbury road? It's a fantastic stretch of tarmac :lol:

[VR6 0]

If he's tried to contact you then it's possible Kev.....

 

As long as I still have my logo-less one :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I'll give Vince a call tommorrow and see if he can find my missing letters.

 

Get some green fridge magnets and put 'SHREK' on it :lol:

[dr_mat 0]

a mix up?

 

Tell me about it, Stealth managed to refit my old top mounts this week, leaving the nice new ones on the floor in the back of the car. Still, I do enjoy an excuse to drive 170 miles... NOT!

 

Matt, Vince reads these forums.

 

How can you not enjouy a thrash down the Banbury road? It's a fantastic stretch of tarmac :lol:

 

I know - I also know they made a genuine mistake, I'm not overly annoyed about that..

I don't fancy having to use another 1/2 tank of fuel but I will make arrangements to get the job done on my way somewhere else, and Vince has said he's happy to fit them FOC, which is quite fair on his part.

 

And Banbury road? Yeah, not bad. Except when the car in front is an Artic.

[corradovr6sc 0]

No VR6, I've got yours! :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

And Banbury road? Yeah, not bad. Except when the car in front is an Artic.

 

Overtake it then.....you do have extra torque now after all :wink:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Fitting the electronic control module:-

 

Connect the Electronic control unit as follows:

A ) Connect plug to solenoid valve (fits one direction only)

B ) Red cable to switched 12 Volt (On coil equipped VR6, use switched 12 Volt at coil) (On early VR6 use unused windshield washer connector under driver's side rain tray CAUTION! Black wire is positive, brown is Negative, double check with digital volt meter.)

C ) Black cable to earth (chassis)

D ) Blue cable to rev-counter input signal (On mk3 connect directly to tach wire in ECU harness. Green/Black, Pin 22 for A3/P/SLC) Carefully strip insulation from indicated wire, wrap lead, solider and re-insulate with electrical tape. The rev-counter input signal can be allocated to different terminals/leads for different vehicle types. You will have to determine which is correct terminal/lead for your vehicle if not a mk3

[corradovr6sc 0]

The first schrick has been fitted :) . Check out the Golf vr6 forum for pictures and details of the install.

[dr_mat 0]

I know, mine was fitted before everyone got theirs in the post... ;)

[dr_mat 0]

By the way folks, I was wondering if some kind soul who receives the full package from Schrick can p/copy or scan the original fitting instructions.

Just in case I need to un-fit it at some point. (Stealth binned mine.)

I mean, I can probably work it out, but it would be useful if I had a proper reference guide.

Ta muchly. :)

[corradovr6sc 0]

Ok, the first to be diy fitted. What impressions do you have of the manifold-was it worth it? I've spoken to Vince and sending mine back for exchange.

[dr_mat 0]

Was it worth it?

Yeah I think so. Given that I'm thinking of the cost as more a rental-with-large-deposit, on the basis that come 2nd hand sale time, it'll likely be worth not far from the price it actually cost us. (It goes in a different part of the "corrado costs spreadsheet"..)

Assuming there's not too many other group buys, of course... ;)

 

Wait till you drive it. The car will accelerate harder between 3000 and 4000 revs than it does between 4000 and 6000... It'll feel MUCH more responsive at lower revs. It'll basically make the car feel lighter and nippier. I think I said I went for 6th gear on the motorway the other night. It was in 5th, but the throttle response was so strong that I was convinced I must be in 4th..!! You know when you pull out onto a roundabout in 1st, and think, right, gotta get a shift on, but the revs bog down and you're gently wafting through the lower revs and you start crapping yourself looking at the cars coming towards you.. waiting for that magic 3500 build in torque. No more. It's not going to win any sprint awards at 1000 rpm, but it'll pick up MUCH more from about 2000rpm onwards. Torque curve suggests at least an extra 20lbft right the way from tickover to 2500, then the big 40 lbft kick in the back from there to 4000, at which point it drops off a little and is back down to "normal" VR6 pull.. Which means it's time to change up a gear!

 

You're sending yours back? You mean because of the logo?

[dr_mat 0]

Of course, yours will be different - due to your supercharger...

But those of us that are naturally aspirated it's the best thing you can do to the car!

[corradovr6sc 0]

Yes, the logo gives about 5 lbft extra torque :mrgreen: The supercharged engine needs the vgi too as there is nothing happening until 3500 rpm when the charger starts boosting. Do you notice any power difference at high revs-does the manifold flow any better at peak revs/has the power band altered?

[dr_mat 0]

High revs differences are hard to spot, it feels pretty much the same as before. But that's hard to tell, cos it's now so strong lower down it's actually not as worth going above 4k (other than to avoid having to change gear). The torque curve on my dyno plot says there's 3-4lbft more above 4k than "stock", but I don't have a "before" plot, so that could be misleading.

I find it weird that the chargers aren't doing anything till 3.5k tho, I thought the point of a supercharger was power at low revs, since it doesn't need exhaust pressure to spin up..

[corradovr6sc 0]

Something to do with being a centrifugal charger and because of the pulley size. It just doesn't shift that much air a low revs. Other chargers such as the g-lader flow better at low revs but not as well at high revs like the centrifugal charger.

[dr_mat 0]

I quite like the idea of the low-pressure turbos, actually. Just enough to keep the cylinder fill to a high efficiency, but not enough to push enormous power numbers.. You don't really need those power numbers anywhere other than on the race track. 200bhp is enough for anyone on the road.. (Just like 64k of memory is enough for anyone! :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's in :lol:

 

Very tight squeezing it between the slam panel and fuel rail, but other than that it's very straight forward.

 

It's about to rain so I'll finish it off on Monday hopefully.

 

I'm not expecting good results initially due to my engine running like a bag of shite at the moment, but once Vince tinkers with it next week, all should be good.

 

K

[Kevin Bacon 5]

And here's where you dremel the bonnet.

 

Put a blanket over the engine first :wink:

 

K

[Kevin Bacon 5]

And lastly, here's where I mounted all the vacuum gubbins.

 

Top tip, those with Clifford alarms, the solenoid (where the two hoses leading to the bulkhead terminate) clips straight into the alarm's bracket channels :lol:

 

To mount the vacuum pot, drill a 4mm hole through the fan fuse bracket and secure the pot to it using a 5mm coarse self tapper.

 

The input for the vacuum pot is taken from the brake servo hose. Under the coilpack you'll see two green blankers on the hose, remove one of them connect the hose to it 8)

 

I'll be doing the electrics tomorrow or Monday, but follow these instructions:-

 

Black wire to earth

Red wire to ECU 12v+ Pin 23 at ECU plug (Normally Red/Blue wire)

Blue wire to ECU RPM Sig.. Pin 22 at ECU (normally Green/Black Wire)

 

You need to solder these wires as close to the ECU plug pins as possible. The Schrick controller is intolerant of long wire spans, so you can't tap into the loom further down.

 

K

[dazzyvr6 0]

looks nice and tidy kev..did you fit it yourself??looks like ill have to do even MORE overtime :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Cheers Dazzy! Yeah I did it this afternoon. It took me a while because I was lethargic and hung-over from last night!

 

I don't like the way the HT leads just hang there now, but can't be helped!

 

Yeah I'd definitely rack up some extra overtime mate!

[corradovr6sc 0]

Nice work Kev! Are you mounting the shrek ecu on top/next to the engine management? where is the best place to earth?

[Joe M 0]

Nice one kev, those pics will come in handy.

 

You need to solder these wires as close to the ECU plug pins as possible. The Schrick controller is intolerant of long wire spans, so you can't tap into the loom further down.

 

Does this mean my plan to position the controller inside the car under the glovebox might not work due to the wire lengths. :(

 

I don't like the way the HT leads just hang there now, but can't be helped!

 

Im pretty sure I seen on Guy Hartleys engine the bottom row of leads were still clipped into the plastic guides. It could be longer leads hes fitted though. :?