Lucky number 7 - sold but 911 in its place

[coullstar 0]

http://www.flatoutphotography.com/gallery3/TS12/TS120189

http://www.flatoutphotography.com/gallery3/TS12/TS120237

http://www.flatoutphotography.com/gallery3/TS12/TS120418

[wy906 0]

Nice one. I’ve also found that mine runs better after the track day; good old Italian tune-up!

 

I didn’t have many ‘battles’ as such in Bedford as it’s a long track and quiet traffic but had fun with Clio172/182, Boxster and Elise. My car was the slowest of the lot though on the two main straights.

[coullstar 0]

Straight line there wasnt much in it with the Clio's for me, same with the turbo MX5. Got the tail moving about a little but the lack of low down grunt was apparent when coming out of corners. The standard gear ratios really are **** on track, I only used 2nd and 3rd all day. Already enquiring about box rebuild to change that as I do feel it on the road as well.

Edited November 17, 2011 by coullstar

[Kevin Bacon 5]

R32 + 3.68 + Quaife is what you want. You'll have no shortage of oomph out the corners then :D

 

---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:05 PM ----------

 

Kev if you read this you need a turbine on the 32, it is amazing. Currently running around 490bhp.

 

Stop it! :D

 

Has this MK2 chap got a build thread? Is it 4WD?

[coullstar 0]

No thread build, its a pure track car and running FWD. Gets the power down very well and he is running 15inn 888's.

[coullstar 0]

Operation VR6+ has started. One set of 263's with some spare cams to rob the cam wheels from.

[coullstar 0]

Fruits of this mornings work. First time Ive acutally got in about the guts of a VR. Top tensioner has some wear and pitting but nothing to bad, I was expecting a lot worse.

 

Managed to goose a spare cam bolt so I'll just use the wheel and bolt of my standard front cam to get everything back in. Need to order a cam trigger though.

 

Dilema is that do I go whole hog and do tensioner / clutch / gearbox work. I'll be honest I cant be bothered right now so might just through the cams in and wait till the summer when I can work on the thing at night. No power in the garage is a bugger.

[fla 9]

good stuff - i need to install my cams at some stage too. I have a spare cam trigger wheel if you need, wont be much. Basically new as i couldnt get the old one off and didnt need it in the end!

[coullstar 0]

Sounds good, was going to order one on Monday. How much? Just to confirm its this bit.

[C5 OEM 0]

cams got to you then mate...?

[KADVR6 0]

that tensioner looks brand new compared to my old one.

[coullstar 0]

I thought Id sent you a reply saying Id got them, sorry about that. Thanks for the getting them to me so quick.

 

The cars done 135k as well. Was just reading some of the online guides and noticed the bit about the intermediate shaft notch being visible, just checked mine as the cams did jump a bit but looks like Im fine.

Edited November 20, 2011 by coullstar

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I always get a dentist mirror down there and look at the arrow on the pulley itself. That notch is visible over a wide range of teeth unfortunately. Good stuff though. Not many folk check the timing thoroughly enough afterwards.

[coullstar 0]

Im assuming the intermediate sprocket cannot move independant from the crank sprocket (if the lower chain is in place) so if the crank timing notches are correct then the intermediate sprocket must be correct. If the cams are them timed correctly using the top plates then everything should be fine? I can understand that if you keep the cams in and rotate with chain tensioner bolt removed then the chain could jump on the intermediate thus screwing up the timing. Is it that simple as it seems to be. I am one of these check and double check when it comes to things like this.

[coullstar 0]

Finally got some spare time yesterday to try and work on this. All went okay but then dropped a cam cap bolt down into the tensioner area, I was gutted as Im needing it bask on the road soon so I had visions of box coming off etc Managed to get a screwdriver and magnet in to get it so that was lucky.

Got the new cams in, put things back and turned over by hand a few times but the cams were not lining up when crank notch was showing TDC. Looks like Im a tooth out but it does seem very close. Forgotten how much I cant be arsed working on cars in the cold, its not fun in the slightest.

[coullstar 0]

Tried again last night and cant seem to get the cams lined up right, its like I need to have the slots angled opposite way to get the chaiin on taught i.e. rear angle like this / and front angled this way \ (exaggerated but still within the cam holding plate. It doesnt feel right to me.

 

Is it a must to to bleed the tensioner bolt before reusing it?

 

Also my crank notch is on the outer edge of the crank wheel not on the inner edge as it seems to be in all the online photos. Its definitely TDC on 1 though.

Edited November 29, 2011 by coullstar

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah you're half a tooth out dude.

 

Get that dentist mirror I recommended and a good torch ;)

 

Undo the cam sprockets and tie the chain up out of the way, keeping it taught.

 

Have a look down into the murky depths of chain land with the pulley mark lined to TDC on cyl 1, and see where the notch on the intermediate shaft is pointing. It must align with notch on the block face. If it doesn't, you need to rotate the crank until it does.

 

Remember, it's a 4 stroke engine, so this mark will only align once in every 4 crank turns. This is where most people go wrong :D What happens is people line the motor up once to TDC, replace the cams, then spin it over 4 times and it's a tooth out ;)

[coullstar 0]

Ive done that but will do it again hopefully get time to check it tonight.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

So pushing hard on the chain tensioner didn't take up that misalignment? Defo mistimed then.

[coullstar 0]

Okay, just redid it and everything looks fine but I dont have a mirror to check the intermediate marks. Turned it over 4 times all still align and the intermediate notch shows up every 2nd turn. Only thing is I cant remember how much I turned the crank (2 or 4) before realigning the cams so as I understand it there is a chance the intermediate could be 180deg out? Where does one get a mirror to check this and what would be the problem if it were 180deg out as I cant see that as a problem i.e. if the little spike is at the top or bottom?

 

Whats strange as well is that there is in fact two notches on the crank pulley. One on the inside and one on the outside about an inch apart, I'l do the visual TDC check againts these.

Edited November 29, 2011 by coullstar

[coullstar 0]

Managed to get some time on the car and something is not right. Timing all seems correct, primed the tensioner and turned it over by hand and using the starter. All appears fine. Put the car back together and started the car, well tried to. It will fire then die straight away. With some throttle it will stay on but is very very lumpy, some popping and revs dont follow the throttle. There is also a screeching noise from the chain area. Took it apart and checked everything and all seems fine. Turned it over again on the starter and no problems, all timed up right. Not quite sure what the issue is TBH. Time for the search function.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Okay, just redid it and everything looks fine but I dont have a mirror to check the intermediate marks. Turned it over 4 times all still align and the intermediate notch shows up every 2nd turn. Only thing is I cant remember how much I turned the crank (2 or 4) before realigning the cams so as I understand it there is a chance the intermediate could be 180deg out? Where does one get a mirror to check this and what would be the problem if it were 180deg out as I cant see that as a problem i.e. if the little spike is at the top or bottom?

 

Whats strange as well is that there is in fact two notches on the crank pulley. One on the inside and one on the outside about an inch apart, I'l do the visual TDC check againts these.

 

My missus used to be a nurse, which is where I got my mirror from (and a stethoscope - another VERY handy peice of diagnostic kit). Should be able to get a telescopic medical / dentist mirror online somewhere I would have though? You do need to see where the intermediate arrow is pointing really.

 

There should only be 1 mark on the crank pulley. On the inner 'ring' closest to the engine. It's not unusual for stones and things to dink another mark onto it. Does yours still have the plastic pulley guard fitted? An important bit of kit which stops gritting destroying the aux belt. It's obsolete now.

 

Maybe you've aligned to the wrong mark?

 

A simple check:

 

Take out plug 1.

 

Align cyl 1 to what you feel is TDC

 

Pop a screw driver down the plug hole and rest it ont the piston

 

Slowly turn the crank back and forth a tiny amount to visually check if the screw driver goes up and down.

 

There is a part of crank rotation where the piston doesn't move up or down, and half way between the screw driver dropping down and going up is exactly TDC. There is also a marker on the cluthc pressure plate which aligns with a notch on the gearbox bell housing.

[coullstar 0]

Ive done that as I dont 100% trust visual marks as you suggest. TDC is spot on the inner crank pulley slot according to the piston position. I checked the intermediate and could see the little spike in the wheel hole was aligned with the top vertical mark. Thats whats getting me, its like the timing is out but all marks suggest it is not.

[VR6Joni 0]

Sure you know this but,

Hows the coil pack condition?

Even though it didn't get wet when washing my car my old one ran like cr@p until it warmed up and any sign of moisture was long gone.

Yours could have got moisture in while it been off the car!

[coullstar 0]

I was thinking that and trying to borrow some items to swap them out, the coilpack is at home drying out. I took it of an left it sitting in the garage for a couple of weeks so thats a possibility although I disconnected each lead with it running as well as the ISV / MAF etc and it made no difference