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timmaaah

MOT Test failed - need some enthusiasm :/

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Hey all - I need some enthusiasm. My car went for it's ticket last month and failed on a few things. I've been pretty despondent about it, hence only now making this thread. I've owned this car for 11 years, and has lots of sentimental value to me. In years gone by I would just have given it to a garage and said fix it, but unfortunately I can't do that, so am going to try and fix it myself. I've managed to get access to some decent hard standing, so that's a plus, but I really need some enthusiasm to get going.

 

I've had a lot go wrong this year - house fire back in March, ongoing health investigations since August, family issues and now the car needs fixing as well. Bah. I can't bring myself to sell my beloved Corrado, but I know if I don't fix her, she'll just deteriorate, so I need a kick up the arse to get started. See below for the fail sheet:

 

DSC_0513_zpsjkd68gkb.jpg

 

I've put up posts about the brakes and emissions in the right places, so hopefully will get some pointers. The bulb is an easy fix, and I guess the windscreen will be done on insurance (phone up for chip repair £10 if they can fix £75 if the can't). Any pointers on my two posts would really be gratefully received, plus any words of encouragement on here too lol, even if it is "Pull your bloody finger out!"

 

Sorry for the self pitying post - I want to get the old girl back on the road. Cheers

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You may get away with cleaning up the brake pipes with emery cloth providing they're not too bad, obviously they're a safety related item so this should only be seen as a short term fix, a smear of grease will keep away further corrosion

 

When was the last time the engine was serviced?

 

Rear brake imbalance is likely to be seized pads in the carriers - strip, clean and copper grease the places they touch.

 

The rear brake compensation valve wants spraying with penetration fluid, wire brushing the pivot point, then push / pull on the lever or a tap with a hammer if excessively seized

Edited by Dox

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It's not all that bad . We've all seen worse . I know how you feel though , it's a downer . Think positive and get it sorted .

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Good advice from Dox.

 

I just wanted to say chin up and hope you find the motivation to crack on with it. I know how these cars can get you down sometimes especially with a laundry list like that (and the health complications don't help.. I can also relate unfortunately).

 

The difficulty here is the feeling of being trapped - you'd have to give the car away for peanuts if you sold, but then there's the emotional investment having owned it so long and being fond of the car generally.. on that basis, perhaps you could look into a lock-up or similar where you can come back to and revisit getting the car through the MOT once your problems are behind you a little later down the line? You're pretty out in the sticks so I'm sure you could find somewhere to get the car put away for a while, for not too much money? It would just be one less thing to worry about in the meantime.

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The registration lamp is either a bulb (obviously) or sometimes the wiring gets disconnected from the back of the bulb holder and needs soldering. It's worth checking that too.

 

Emissions - A new lamba is about £45 on ebay. I think they can be tested using a volt meter although I'm not sure how (a google should show something up). If it turns out to be the cat then I have a spare used one (can't be sure it works as never tested it). I'd need it back at some point because I bought it for a reason. But you're welcome to borrow it to get it through the test if it's not the lambda.

 

I'm no mechanic but my family are in Norfolk. So if you needed a bit of morale support one weekend I could bring a few beers up, a jack, a pair of axle stands, some tools, a Bentley manual and combine it with seeing them (trust me I barely know anything mechanical and am probably more dangerous than of any use, but sometimes just having someone else there can boost morale).

Edited by Portent

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I'm betting the imbalance is related to the brake load sensing valve, cover it with wd40, leave it overnight or at least for half hour, undo the adjustment bolt and just move it back and forth to free it up. Mine had seized up as well, just needs loosening up and thats an easy one.

 

I'll put money on the lambda being MAF related as Lambda's rarely go. Warm the car up to running temp, unplug MAF and see if engine note changes, if it does MAF is fine, if its doesn't take MAF off and clean with electrical cleaner (not WD40!).

 

Brake pipes aren't too bad, get yourself a brake flaring tool, some copper lines and stainless ends and make them up yourself.

 

Honestly, years ago I would have been happy with a list like that! I once came back from MOT station with my first corrado with a 3 page fail sheet!

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Imbalance can also be due to tyre pressures.

 

Emissions could also be coolant temp sensor.

 

Can you post a pic of the fail cert and emissions fail info?

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I'm betting the imbalance is related to the brake load sensing valve

[...]

 

I'll put money on the lambda being MAF related as Lambda's rarely go. Warm the car up to running temp, unplug MAF and see if engine note changes, if it does MAF is fine, if its doesn't take MAF off and clean with electrical cleaner (not WD40!).

 

Brake pipes aren't too bad, get yourself a brake flaring tool, some copper lines and stainless ends and make them up yourself.

 

Honestly, years ago I would have been happy with a list like that! I once came back from MOT station with my first corrado with a 3 page fail sheet!

 

Don't make your own brake lines, unless you definitely know what you're doing. :)

 

But I agree with the other points. The emissions fails (two of them) points to one likely fault elsewhere. Most likely MAF, but just as likely a hole in the inlet system somewhere messing with fuelling. But bear in mind the car's idle won't change if you unplug the later, coilpack car's MAF - that old story only seems to apply to the early car's hot wire MAF.

 

Best bet on the emissions stuff is to get the car on VAGCOM.

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Thanks for the words and advice. The car's going to my parents as they have decent hard standing, plus all my tools are there!

 

I'll hopefully start tackling the issues soon. I certainly can't bring myself to part with her, so the work will be done :) Typically, the weather has now changed ^_^

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Hopefully you'll get it sorted. I'm kind of in the same boat just now. MOT expired nearly 2 months ago now and due to poor health and back issues i've done very little to it. It's my only car at the moment too. Mine needs the front subframe changing along with all sorts off odd jobs before I can get it in for an MOT. Everything is seized and generally giving me grief at the moment.

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obviously i/we dont know the actual condition of your braking system so its kind of hard to say weather or not to do this or that etc , but it does say every pipe is corroded in each corner except nearside rear, idd also say the imbalance is due to the bias valve/load sensing valve which is on the passenger side rear on the axle, which could be siezed and might free up and work perfectly for the continued future Or not? , judgeing by what is written above, new pipes in each corner , new bias valve along with new flexys all round , that way they bleed it and its done and your not comming back every other year with your braking system being drained and re bled {which is labour every time they need to do it to replace something} and causing you more hassle, there isnt much to a braking system just get it done if you can afford it that is..

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Just to update this post, I did some brake work/investigation today http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92833-MOT-Test-fail-corroded-pipes-and-brake-imbalance

 

Long and short is: New bias valve needed, seal kits for both rear callipers, one new flexi, one new hard pipe for rear, drill out and new nipples for front callipers plus new hard pipes up front.

 

Onwards and upwards :)

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