Geeba 0 Posted February 1, 2017 Thanks again fellas - I'll get a picture of the handles up, so will Matts LED version will eliminate the fire risk on the switch? - is that purely that the LED draws less current? I'd like to do the head light loom as well, is that a difficult job? I don’t want to go overboard on mods but improvements I'm well up for ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted February 1, 2017 I've done both to mine, belt and braces.... Loom which is simple cut n shut of I think brown wire with fuse holder. And mats headlight switch... it's rather bright. But a dab of black paint on the led calms it down. Think they were about 25 quid last time around but he did mention a slight price increase this time. Also a good thing to do is... their is a possibility of glove box and boot light shorting out... not looked at mine for a few years but the long electrical bar contact that goes round the bulb I've put some heat sink on. To hopefully eliminate this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted February 2, 2017 Thanks again fellas - I'll get a picture of the handles up, so will Matts LED version will eliminate the fire risk on the switch? - is that purely that the LED draws less current? I'd like to do the head light loom as well, is that a difficult job? I don’t want to go overboard on mods but improvements I'm well up for ;) original door handle strikers look like this.... stainless ones look like they have been machined. as ebay advert. glove box and boot light with heat sink Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 2, 2017 Fantastic! thanks delfinis ;) roll on the weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) Well another fruitless day :( - after fixing my Audi I moved back onto the VR, powerwashed all the carpets which now look and feel great! but I still cant get it running, checked every pot for a spark which they have, cleaned all the earths next to the fuse box, checked to see if the fuel pump runs which it does. I was expecting a Golf GTI type pump setup with a lifter pump in the tank and the pressure pump sat next to the fuel filter just under the back seats... but as far as I can see there is only one pump? So I pulled the fuel rail feed pipe off and fired it into a bottle, fuel is definitely getting to the rail, but after removing a few of the plugs I can see that they are dry... its almost like the injectors aren't firing? Anyone got any ideas? I didn't think this type of injector would be affected by corrosion like the old KE-Jet metal injectors... I really dont want to strip the manifold off just yet and would 6 injectors just not work?.... I guess I could rig up a test bulb and check for a pulse? Edited February 4, 2017 by Geeba Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VEEDUBBED 0 Posted February 4, 2017 So along comes VEEDUBBED to the rescue.. Giles, I've got 6 injectors off a 19.000km ABV engine mate.. Still attached to the fuel rail with fpr too.. Let me know if you need the sods.. Remind me again, how long has the car been idle? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted February 4, 2017 VR6 only has the in-tank fuel pump so thats correct. Maybe worth replacing the fuel pressure regulator. They're not too expensive although I've not heard of them failing to let anything through, its a possibility. Also worth checking you're getting 12v to the injectors to see if they're operating correctly. Other than that, its pulling the rail with injectors still in, and sticking each in a bottle whilst cranking to see what happens. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted February 4, 2017 So along comes VEEDUBBED to the rescue.. Giles, I've got 6 injectors off a 19.000km ABV engine mate.. Still attached to the fuel rail with fpr too.. Let me know if you need the sods.. Remind me again, how long has the car been idle? This is quite possible too. As the car has been sat for so long, its possible that the injectors have become quite gummed up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted February 4, 2017 Its always worth having a can of easy start when trying to trace a non start, disconnect trunking and spray inside the manifold whilst cranking. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Holts-Bradex-Easy-Start-Spray-300ml-Car-Van-Truck-For-Petrol-Diesel-Eng-a-/322333510446?hash=item4b0c930b2e:g:oKwAAOSwv0tVaHwn Most petrol stations stock it, my lawn mower get a good "sniff" before the first cut of the year Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 4, 2017 So along comes VEEDUBBED to the rescue.. Giles, I've got 6 injectors off a 19.000km ABV engine mate.. Still attached to the fuel rail with fpr too.. Let me know if you need the sods.. Remind me again, how long has the car been idle? Hiya VEEDUBBED... the car has been stood and not started for 3+ years - its fighting me all the way too :( Ether the injectors have gummed up or the alarm/immobilizer has come back to haunt me... but I'd of thought they would immobilize with the fuel pump... not the injectors? Yep sean182 I recon my job tomorrow is to remove the 12v feed to pot five (if I can get it off) and put a bulb on it to see if its pulsing.... the other thing I was wondering if there was a bleed on the rail? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted February 4, 2017 Yeah there should be a small hex screw on the rail. Never really wondered what it was for, but I suppose that could well be it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 4, 2017 Its always worth having a can of easy start when trying to trace a non start, disconnect trunking and spray inside the manifold whilst cranking. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Holts-Bradex-Easy-Start-Spray-300ml-Car-Van-Truck-For-Petrol-Diesel-Eng-a-/322333510446?hash=item4b0c930b2e:g:oKwAAOSwv0tVaHwn Most petrol stations stock it, my lawn mower get a good "sniff" before the first cut of the year Yep I think I'm going to add a can of this to the arsenal as well... I was wondering if it fired if that would spark it into life. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VEEDUBBED 0 Posted February 4, 2017 If the injectors are indeed buggered, let me know mate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 4, 2017 If the injectors are indeed buggered, let me know mate. You're a legend VEEDUBBED! You need to move back to the UK! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted February 4, 2017 You coukd also get an ultrasonic cleaner. Only about £30. Great for injectors, rusted fittings etc, Edit:Sorry veedubbed not trying to do you out of a sale! I know you're a top guy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted February 4, 2017 Yep I think I'm going to add a can of this to the arsenal as well... I was wondering if it fired if that would spark it into life. Starters usually crank at 3-400 RPM so if you can get the car to rev higher on sniff and some heat in the cylinders anything is possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 5, 2017 Well I've soldered up a test bulb and there is indeed no pulse at the injectors...... if this is the correct way to test that is? I'm stuck now..... Anyone got any ideas? I've reseated the ECU connection... seems fine. Would alarms immobilize at the injectors? - would an auto electrician be able to sort this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted February 5, 2017 1, I'm not sure the injectors are fired with 12V? 2, The duration of the injector opening might not be long enough to actually illuminate that bulb? 3 The bulb is too high wattage (whats it rated at?) for fault finding - drawing too much current possibly - leading to blown ecu etc A low wattage 9V LED would be better for fault finding IMO, sacrifice the LED rather than ecu etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 6, 2017 I'm not sure Dox :( it was the only thing I could think off, the fact that the pots/plugs are dry as well is making me think the injectors aren't firing - I think I might have to admit defeat and get an auto sparky in... can anyone recommend one in the Aylesbury-Bucks / Thame-Oxon area? Unless anyone knows how to force voltage to the injectors? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted February 6, 2017 Sorry if you've already tried, but worth picking up another VR6 ECU? Must be plenty of those kicking around reasonably cheap. Would help rule out a dead ECU as it can and does happen sometimes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 6, 2017 Hi Jim - not tried that yet.... would there be other symptoms of a failed ECU? - Auyone got one they wanna lend out? :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted February 6, 2017 Could, I suppose, also be a break in the engine wiring loom somewhere. Try giving lilfuzzer a PM.. I'd be surprised if he doesn't have a few VR6 ECU's sitting around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geeba 0 Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks again fellas, as Dox has kindly pointed out the crank sensor could be a red herring as the I have a spark on every pot... lillfuzzer is kindly looking out for an ECU for me... I whipped mine one out... it did look pretty mankey as it had spent 3+ years covered in leaves under the scuttle... I expected water ingress but it looks ok... but I guess without a scope there is no way of telling if theres a problem... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks again fellas, as Dox has kindly pointed out the crank sensor could be a red herring as the I have a spark on every pot... lillfuzzer is kindly looking out for an ECU for me... I whipped mine one out... it did look pretty mankey as it had spent 3+ years covered in leaves under the scuttle... I expected water ingress but it looks ok... but I guess without a scope there is no way of telling if theres a problem... Examine the electrolytic capacitors for bulging / leakage - its an age related thing Also dry solder joints on the rear Edited February 7, 2017 by Dox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks2 0 Posted February 7, 2017 Is the ignition map in the VR ECU? If so it indicates the ROM / Processor section is working. Are there any damaged tracks or discoloration on the other side of the PCB? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites