Car won’t unlock

[DaveVR 0]

Hi all, I’ve had a search and found that Corrado central locking systems seem to be temperamental at best but haven’t found much info on my particular issue.

 

I’m currently away in the car, locked it outside my hotel and now the bugger won’t unlock. When I turn the key to unlock position the pump sounds as normal but there is resistance against the key (it won’t let me turn it all the way) and the lock pins in the doors rise slightly but are then sucked back down. If I keep pressure on the key, the pump sounds multiple times until I stop. I can unlock the boot manually so I managed to get my luggage out but I need to be able to get into it. Any initial ideas as to why it’s doing this? And also is there a way of disabling the central locking so I can manually open the doors on the key for now until I’m home and can have a proper look at it?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Dox 23]

Tried the passenger door?

[fla 9]

Might be one of the hoses to the locks or from the pump has come off or there may be a vacuum leak in the system.

Take the door cards off and see if you can hear any air leak sound when operating the doors.

[Keyo 47]

Could also be the first sign of the pump failing, if so most lightly the control unit in the pump.Just because you can here the pump does not mean its been controlled correctly. The good news is there are loads of early and late type pumps on ebay starting from £20 which is great really as I believe they were not shy of £400 new, quite refreshing to see a second hand part cheap for a corrado. Ive got my spare one off ebay all ready absolute no brainer for that money.

Coulkd possibly be the control valve as well ?

 

NO 11 on diagram

 

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/862/subcategory/171000/part_id/0/lang/e#sec_11

Edited May 25, 2019 by Keyo

[Dox 23]

The drivers door will open with a flat battery, so more likely mechanical than pneumatic.

[DaveVR 0]

Thanks for the responses. I initially didn’t try the passenger door as it has a mish mash of locks on it, ignition key different to drivers door etc. I had it in my head that neither key worked the passenger door lock but I remember wrongly, turns out the drivers door lock is the only different one so the ignition key worked the passenger door lock. The central locking works perfectly from the passenger side so luckily I can at least get into it. It also means the drivers lock is most likely the issue, weirdly since I opened it from the passenger side, the drivers lock now works on the key but purely mechanically stand alone (without pump noise etc).

 

It means I can get into it without having to climb through the boot but I’ll still need to sort this out. Are we looking at a drivers door lock fault or a pipe off?

[Dox 23]

Take the door panel off and use the key in the door whilst observing the linkages

[Bauhaus 3]

I had this problem with mine, turned out to be the electrical connector inside the door panel that was corroded, I remade the connection and all was well after that.

There is only the one connector it has three wires going into one crimp

[1xshaunx1 27]

If it’s not the electrical connection to the solenoid/actuator there is a soldered joint if you trace the plug wires back in the loom to the bottom of the door, this joint can corrode and cause problems too. I think I’m talking about the same thing as Bauhaus

Edited May 26, 2019 by 1xshaunx1

[Keyo 47]

If it’s not the electrical connection to the solenoid/actuator there is a soldered joint if you trace the plug wires back in the loom to the bottom of the door, this joint can corrode and cause problems too. I think I’m talking about the same thing as Bauhaus

 

My tailgate will only open if the key is inserted in the tailgate barrel and turned, I take it that you should be able to just press the button on the key barrel and it should open when the central locking is open ??? Thanks.

 

 

I've took the rear tail gate trim off and the actuator is working and you can see it pop in and out when I press the remote keyfob , the metal rod looks attached to, I think its something to do where it connects to the barrel as the metal rod going back to the centre of the tailgate locking catch is not moving.

 

Any help would be appreciated folks going to have a bash fixing it later.

[Dox 23]

My tailgate will only open if the key is inserted in the tailgate barrel and turned, I take it that you should be able to just press the button on the key barrel and it should open when the central locking is open ??? Thanks.

 

 

I've took the rear tail gate trim off and the actuator is working and you can see it pop in and out when I press the remote keyfob , the metal rod looks attached to, I think its something to do where it connects to the barrel as the metal rod going back to the centre of the tailgate locking catch is not moving.

 

Any help would be appreciated folks going to have a bash fixing it later.

 

If you can source a boot lock diagram off the net look to see if there's a barrel shaped roller within the key barrel, then check to see if yours is missing, I've had similar on other VWs

[Keyo 47]

Thanks Dox had a quick search but cannot find any diagrams , Ive got a feeling there is some kind of clip missing Ill post some pictures in a bit .I'm actually really close to just a thing or two missing, when it had a spray job four years back I think a few things just got misplaced, also need left and right door card trims that sit on top of the door card that run parallel to the front windows that covers the lower window seal gap .

 

Cheers.

[Dox 23]

Thanks Dox had a quick search but cannot find any diagrams , Ive got a feeling there is some kind of clip missing Ill post some pictures in a bit .I'm actually really close to just a thing or two missing, when it had a spray job four years back I think a few things just got misplaced, also need left and right door card trims that sit on top of the door card that run parallel to the front windows that covers the lower window seal gap .

 

Cheers.

 

There's one in the Bentley, 55.10 and 55.11 - there's no barrel roller in the Corrado.

 

OP - There's also a guide to replacing the levers in the lock so one key fits all 57.18 onwards

[Keyo 47]

Thanks Dox I don't have a Bentley on hand unfortunately.

 

Here is some pictures of the back of the barrel . I think the area I have circled in green with the two v shaped prongs have some how dislodged from the flat plate at the back of the barrel or there is a missing joint clip god knows.' A' on diagram is the rod that should be unlocking the boot latch when the actuator is activated but is not moving because the prongs seem to be not be attached to anything , 'B' is the actuator rod that is working (moving).

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97078[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97079[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97080[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97081[/ATTACH]

Edited May 26, 2019 by Keyo

[Dox 23]

Does the pneumatic actuator for the tailgate do its thing when you unlock the doors? open the tailgate, push the lock to its locked position using a screwdriver on the latch.

 

 

Bentley 57.12 for those with similar issues (a pretty crap diagram in reality).

[Keyo 47]

Hi Dox, when locking the tailgate barrel manual with the key it does open/lock the tailgate manually , the actuator does move when I press the key fob but the rod to the latch does not move so it something to do with the join at the back of the barrel that connects to the rod that goes to the latch marked a A on picture above I guess ?.

Edited May 26, 2019 by Keyo

[Keyo 47]

Has anyone got the Bentley manual and take a picture and post on here so I can inspect if there is a missing link part, cheers.

[Keyo 47]

Crap me its working now thanks Dox . put it into lock position shut the boot and now working with keyfob with just a push of the barrel, don't need to put the key in the barrel no more, thanks mucker.

[Dox 23]

So the key was turned to the deadlock position? You don't always want to drive around with the contents of the boot accessible to opportunists at traffic lights etc

[Keyo 47]

The barrel was left in the middle horizontal position before I believe and did not work if I pushed the button in.

 

I turned the key furthest to the left possible and now it works by pressing the barrel button in without putting the key in and also locks/unlocks by using the keyfob, is that the correct position it should be left in .

 

Cheers.

[Dox 23]

Its sounds like its OK, giving you the option of locked with the doors open (key only) or unlocked with the doors with the contents of the boot vulnerable to thieves - not such a problem in this country

[Keyo 47]

Thanks Dox now to source some door card trims these are now obsolete , one thing I also noticed as my key barrel external seal trim was looking a bit tired is these are bloody obselete to, oh the joy !!!

[DaveVR 0]

I'm thinking the original theory of corroded terminals/connections may be the issue with mine. After I messed around with opening it from the passenger side, it then miraculously started working from the drivers side. I came to it later on and it had reverted back to only opening from the passenger side. It's back home and in the garage now so it's not of paramount importance, just another 'quirk' to add to the list of jobs to fix on this thing!

[fendervg 33]

That problem with the three-way crimp in the door is a well known one, and has fixed things for lots of people. It'a worth looking at as it's bound to give issues eventually.

[fla 9]

On 5/29/2019 at 9:20 AM, fendervg said:

That problem with the three-way crimp in the door is a well known one, and has fixed things for lots of people. It'a worth looking at as it's bound to give issues eventually.

Any pics of this crimp? I'm still struggling with getting mine to work. I've now got three pumps, one doesn't work, the other seems intermittent and the third has the wrong connector. 

Hasan