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Keyo

Upgraded light loom

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I think the best bet is to get your reflectors re-coated and use a loom. Even with perfect reflectors, the voltage at the headlight will still be lower than it should be and cause a drop in the light output - this is simply a design flaw and facto of life for early VAG cars because of the way the loom is run and the current is routed through the headlight switch.

 

Yep. I ended making my own loom using heavy gauge wire, did all the joins using heat shrink crimp connectors and sourced waterproof fuse holders and relays. Ideally you want a set-up that has separate relays and fuses for each headlight, so if one relay or fuse goes, you're not plunged into instant darkness.

 

I've been through about four aftermarket looms on my Mk2 and they all fail eventually because: the wires are just crimped with no sealing / the relays are not waterproof and get soaked under the bonnet and fail - ideally you want either waterproof relays or a sealed box - and always carry a spare in the car - it''s a pretty hostile environment under the bonnet and eventually the water just gets to them and things corrode and die. There was an American site doing what looked like really good quality aftermarket looms for the Corrado, erm, Eurowires I think, but they don't seem to exist any more. The Rayne Automotive ones are okay, but the relays are exposed and one of mine on the Golf just corroded to death, to be fair, they sold me a replacement block of relays quite promptly. Bottom line: making a bombproof wiring loom is actually quite time consuming, which is why the decent ones are expensive.

 

With the Corrado, you ideally want to use a loom with the OE headlight connectors which adds another layer of expense and complexity, especially as it's a shrinking market.

 

A bit of a curve ball. I fitted a set of the Philips X-treme Ultinon H4 bulbs to my Mk 2 and they are brilliant. They're not road legal, but the beam pattern is spot on and they are super bright in the standard Golf headlights. These things, they always have a 20% or 25% off code at the top of the site, so more like £120, which is a lot, but they are supposed to last for years:

 

https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/x-tremeultinon-gen2-led-headlight-bulbs-h4-twin

 

We also fitted a set in the legendarily awful headlights of the missus' T5 and though they're not as good as they are in the Golf, they're a lot better than anything halogen we've used - really that thing needs new headlights. I haven't tried them in the Corrado and it's off the road for winter, but I'm planning on sticking a set in come spring time. Expensive, but supposed to last for years. Super simple to install too. I'm not sure that's much use, but it might help someone. They were a total revelation in the GTi, I've tried all sorts in there and they're far and away the best thing I've used and like I said, the beam pattern is as good or better than the halogens. I guess Philips know what they're doing.

Edited by Mystic Rado

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Good points - I ended up making my own (2 relays) using OEM headlight connectors and spliced in a fourth wire each side for the sidelights. Then I got an old headlight casings and cut out the matching plug socket for the original loom to connect in to. Wrapped everything in heatshrink and OEM exterior loom tape and mounted the relays in a small waterproof box which sits in front of the battery. The two fuse holders were replaced with ones from Posi-Lock and left within easy access. The only failure I've had was when the top radiator hose burst and one of the fuses burnt out. But it takes time and money.

 

For comparison, the very expensive German loom uses 4 relays, heavy duty sealed quality wiring, a relay box with the fuses mounted in the die and most importantly OEM connectors for the lights, and also OEM sockets each side (so you plug in both sides of your factory loom) to power the sidelights without any extra wiring. The one and only minor fault to this loom, and I've only seen one in the flesh, is that the relay box does not seem to be perfectly water tight and has a poor seal at the join - this can be fixed with some sealant and tape, but should not be needed for the money they cost.

 

Once again, lack of pictures makes it difficult to explain, but you get the idea.

 

Holy jeebus - those Philips LED jobbies are dear! They'd want to last a lifetime - I thought £120 was a typo :lol

Edited by fendervg

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Good points - I ended up making my own (2 relays) using OEM headlight connectors and spliced in a fourth wire each side for the sidelights. Then I got an old headlight casings and cut out the matching plug socket for the original loom to connect in to. Wrapped everything in heatshrink and OEM exterior loom tape and mounted the relays in a small waterproof box which sits in front of the battery. The two fuse holders were replaced with ones from Posi-Lock and left within easy access. The only failure I've had was when the top radiator hose burst and one of the fuses burnt out. But it takes time and money.

 

For comparison, the very expensive German loom uses 4 relays, heavy duty sealed quality wiring, a relay box with the fuses mounted in the die and most importantly OEM connectors for the lights, and also OEM sockets each side (so you plug in both sides of your factory loom) to power the sidelights without any extra wiring. The one and only minor fault to this loom, and I've only seen one in the flesh, is that the relay box does not seem to be perfectly water tight and has a poor seal at the join - this can be fixed with some sealant and tape, but should not be needed for the money they cost.

 

Once again, lack of pictures makes it difficult to explain, but you get the idea.

 

Holy jeebus - those Philips LED jobbies are dear! They'd want to last a lifetime - I thought £120 was a typo :lol

 

Holy light bulb that is expensive.

Edited by Keyo

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Would these even fit into a Corrado headlight housing? I'm not sure they would, but I'm not buying a set to find out - maybe someone else on here has tried them?

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Thanks Fen , my budget does not cover for that much but Im sure you have found the best one on the market! Anyone else come up with anything ? Im sure I read on here that a member was making them ?

 

Found this as well off ebay ???

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-Mk-2-Golf-Uprated-Headlight-Wiring-Loom-Upgrade-Headlights/322309016982?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

 

I bought this one, the kit looks good and decent quality but I haven't fitted it yet. I'll send you some pictures when I am in my shed next.

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Would these even fit into a Corrado headlight housing? I'm not sure they would, but I'm not buying a set to find out - maybe someone else on here has tried them?

 

I'm pretty sure they would. The first generation version has quite a big control box, but the 2nd generation I linked to has a really small control box and you just stick it inside the headlight housing. Fitted fine in the T5 and I think it would go in the Corrado too. Yes, they're expensive, but the life expectancy is claimed to be up to 12 years. If you look at uprated Philips halogens they go for around 25 quid per pair and the more uprated they are, the shorter their lifespan, so potentially it ends up cheaper in the long term.

 

Ultimately I figure that it's a relatively small price to pay for being able to see where you going and they're pukka Philips, so you know that they're properly made and tested unlike random eBay LEDs.

 

Anyway, when I get the chance, I'll try them in the Corrado and report back.

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Really enjoying reading this thread, you guys have such good info. It would be nice to see pictures though and if a write up was written with parts needed, wire length etc so we could make our own... See I just bought my Corrado and the only thing non OEM on it is the halo head lights... I bought some e-codes but need to make a harness now for them and since I don't have to original loom, I'm a little in the dark... I could buy the German one but it's a tad expensive...

 

Cheers guys

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Seen this as well and they are a great company but says not for USA cars . So there must be a difference in USA lights so you consider this in whatever you decide.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Cable-Harnes-for-Series-Headlight-VW-Corrado-2-0-16V-G60-VR6/223726467770?hash=item341722faba:g:VcoAAOSwn7JYEL9i

 

Well actually my car is Euro, went from Germany to Japan and then to me...that's another reason why I like this forum, I can relate to it!

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Would that mean you think that no modifications were made to I stall the halo and it would be just plug and play to reinstall the e-codes? That would be great! I guess, I should still upgrade the loom so they light better... I'll check this out with the diagram once I get home.

 

Thanks!!

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If you still have a 4-pin plug that connects to the socket on the headlight body, then you can just swap the units and should work. The loom from ARZ is the internal one for the headlight wiring inside the lamp body - you might need this if the halo mod involved using the original casing with different internals.

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I'm pretty sure they would. The first generation version has quite a big control box, but the 2nd generation I linked to has a really small control box and you just stick it inside the headlight housing. Fitted fine in the T5 and I think it would go in the Corrado too. Yes, they're expensive, but the life expectancy is claimed to be up to 12 years. If you look at uprated Philips halogens they go for around 25 quid per pair and the more uprated they are, the shorter their lifespan, so potentially it ends up cheaper in the long term.

 

Ultimately I figure that it's a relatively small price to pay for being able to see where you going and they're pukka Philips, so you know that they're properly made and tested unlike random eBay LEDs.

 

Anyway, when I get the chance, I'll try them in the Corrado and report back.

 

Interesting - I was changing the off-side Halogen H4 this morning as my low beam had burned out, and it looks like there would be enough room behind the cap for base of the LED to fit - then the control box needs to be connected and tucked inside, and the H4 connector attached - so might be a runner. Would be good to hear how you get on with a trial fit.

 

That leaves the H3 lights either side - there don't seem to be many decent and small H3 LEDs available, so would have to match them up with some suitable white light high output halogen ones.

 

I might be tempted to suggest a set of these as a Christmas present!

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Interesting - I was changing the off-side Halogen H4 this morning as my low beam had burned out, and it looks like there would be enough room behind the cap for base of the LED to fit - then the control box needs to be connected and tucked inside, and the H4 connector attached - so might be a runner. Would be good to hear how you get on with a trial fit.

 

That leaves the H3 lights either side - there don't seem to be many decent and small H3 LEDs available, so would have to match them up with some suitable white light high output halogen ones.

 

I might be tempted to suggest a set of these as a Christmas present!

 

Hold on before you fit the bulbs have you a rusty screw, that part houses the lense unit, the little b....d , I have one very rusty nearside rounded screw that I'm going to have tackle soon to change a bulb ha.

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Should be two screws on top, they screw into little plastic inserts in the lock carrier, and then a single longer one at the back of the light casing - the unit slides over a protruding piece with another plastic insert and the screw then tightens to hold the lamp in. Needs a long screwdriver and a maglite shining in through one of the holes on the side to locate.

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Looking at my setup today and it's hard to say what was modified or not. The headlights that was installed are Sonar brand and according to their website, no modifications are required to install them on a Corrado equipped with e-codes from factory which is the case. So I guess it's safe to assume that the original hiring loom wasn't modified and I should be able to remove them and install my e-codes "plug & play". I'll find out over the winter when I remove the front of the car to get the engine out I guess. Cheers!

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Hi Ive sanded down my battery trays in the last week and also sanded out a bit of surface rust and primer/spray . ;aquer etc. Whilst int hat area I replaced a grotty old looking relay on the uprated loom and aslo the cable and inline fuse to positive and the cable to negative. Lights are working fine.

 

 

My question is why do I only have one Relay when I see other uprated looms with two, three or four relays ? Is my present set up dangerous ?

 

Thanks

Edited by Keyo

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Thanks Fla the relay has four cables going to it .

Edited by Keyo

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The four cables could be + and - from the battery and then one each to the low beam headlights maybe? To be honest I've never seen a single relay setup, even if it's just for low beam as you would normally have one relay per side for redundancy. Some would have a third relay for high, or even two, one for each side. If that one relay fails, you lose low beam on both sides - high beam might still be wired as per stock.

 

It could also be a relay with two outputs.

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A relay is just a switch.

 

One wire will be a body / battery earth for the low current side of the relay.

 

One wire will be from the light switch, again to the low current side of the relay.

 

Fused power in, high current when bulbs are powered.

 

Power out to the bulbs.

 

The relay is there to reduce current to the delicate contacts inside the switch extending its working life.

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Thanks Chap my car going into Vince for a full engine rebuild in a couple of months so i will get him to check it out, as mentioned looks like my loom is just low beam .

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Morning. I've got a upgraded loom. I've never fitted it. I would have bought it off here or was directed to somewhere from here. I don't have the fitting diagram. Would anyone have a diagram of what I might need to do to fit it or similar. I'll go take a pic of the loom for you. Cheers 

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That did not come from Kurzy. It's got spade connectors, so won't connect directly onto the lamp housing socket, the spade connectors will go on to the terminals in the socket instead.So, the two ring terminals will  be + and  - on the battery, end of loom to the spades on your headlights, and then you take one of your existing plugs from the OEM loom and hook the new loom on there, this is what signals the relay to trip. That looks like a two relay one, so you probably have one for each side.

To be honest it doesn't look great quality in the pictures, so if I were you I'd just arrange to buy a new one. Kurzy on here did a group buy deal not long ago, or another member on here might have a decent one for sale. I'll take a look and see what I have and get some photos up for comparison.

The OEM plug sockets are really a must, and very easy to buy both the male and the female ones now.

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