Karmann the Corrado

[Cressa 44]

Sitting in some bilt hamber DEOX-C for a little extra rust cleaning

 

[_Matt_ 26]

Nice work Cressa. I had heard the same about powdercoating eventually flaking off and rusting but did have some parts done myself.

Next time i do anything like this wont do powdercoating and instead blast and use an enamel based chassis paint.



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[Cressa 44]

I had the same problem with the lower front panel after a year and had that nylon coated,  what ever that is. It cost more but is still looking good. I may just spray these with the halfords black enamel paint just to see how they get on. Just had a coat of anti-rust primer after the de-rusting.

Unless anyone can recommend a hard wearing spray that I can do myself. It will have taken 2 months just to get round to doing this side 😇, so hopefully the other side won't take as long. 

Annoyed at it sitting in the garage gathering dust 🤬

[ChrisL 16]

4 hours ago, Cressa said:

Slow progress on this one. I have had the front wheel off for over a month, waiting for time to change the wheel bearings. They keep appearing as advisories on the MOT, which is a surprise as they have only been in a few thousand miles. What I found:-

Everything I had powdercoated a few years ago seems to have corroded!! So I have just stripped the hub down and will do it myself. 

Thanks to putting some copper grease on the ABS sensor, this came out easily 👍

The wheel bearing looks to have been leaking. My bro in law did them and now I know why I had an issue. Only 1 circlip was used.... I have done the mk2 golf recently and they went fine, so hopefully these will have no movement. 

The damned rotor hub came out with part of the wheel bearing and I cant be arsed to try and cut that off as my grinder is broken. New Febi items ordered. Hopefully I can smarten this up and get it ready for an MOT this year, but it is blocked in still by a mk2 that needs its engine running yet.

 

I thought you only use the one circlip for each bearing? The bearing pushes in against the lip in the hub and then the circlip on the outside?

[Cressa 44]

Just now, ChrisL said:

I thought you only use the one circlip for each bearing? The bearing pushes in against the lip in the hub and then the circlip on the outside?

I will do some research  then. My mk2 golf definitely uses a circlip each end. Pretty sure there is 2 in a box so will check tomorrow. There are 2 grooves in the hub.... Need to get this right so perhaps get the Bentley out for a read  🤣

[ChrisL 16]

8 minutes ago, Cressa said:

I will do some research  then. My mk2 golf definitely uses a circlip each end. Pretty sure there is 2 in a box so will check tomorrow. There are 2 grooves in the hub.... Need to get this right so perhaps get the Bentley out for a read  🤣

My mate at work pressed my new front bearings in and he said they only have the circlip on the outside as they press against a stop. Will have to double check 👍

[Cressa 44]

Would appreciate that. There is definitely 2 grooves in the hub but the FAG wheel bearings only have 1 circlip as you suggest. Yet a Bentley picture shows 2 like my mk2!!

[ChrisL 16]

1 minute ago, Cressa said:

Would appreciate that. There is definitely 2 grooves in the hub but the FAG wheel bearings only have 1 circlip as you suggest. Yet a Bentley picture shows 2 like my mk2!!

Strange that…. I’ll have to look into it further.

[Cressa 44]

Cancel cancel that, just found the vr6 section. 

I  bow to your knowledge 👍

[ChrisL 16]

5 minutes ago, Cressa said:

Cancel cancel that, just found the vr6 section. 

I  bow to your knowledge 👍

Phew! Had me worried….

watched a video and the mk3 golf has the same bearing but 2 circlips. They push them out the front but then fit the new circlip on the front and push the bearing in from the back.

[Cressa 44]

3 minutes ago, ChrisL said:

Phew! Had me worried….

watched a video and the mk3 golf has the same bearing but 2 circlips. They push them out the front but then fit the new circlip on the front and push the bearing in from the back.

I had seen that too...that's why it is so bloody confusing. Yet 1 circlip being supplied by FAG and that Bentley picture is enough to convince me

[ChrisL 16]

3 minutes ago, Cressa said:

I had seen that too...that's why it is so bloody confusing. Yet 1 circlip being supplied by FAG and that Bentley picture is enough to convince me

👍👍 me too.

[_Matt_ 26]

Late to the chat but done this job 4 times in the last year and it's 1 circlip and bearing pushes against the lip on the knuckle/race.

Think you've got there but just chipping in to give confidence. Mk2 set up is diff with circlip each end.

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[Cressa 44]

6 hours ago, _Matt_ said:

Late to the chat but done this job 4 times in the last year and it's 1 circlip and bearing pushes against the lip on the knuckle/race.

Think you've got there but just chipping in to give confidence. Mk2 set up is diff with circlip each end.

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👍 Thanks for that. Reassurance is always good

[Dox 22]

For those who’ve never done this, when you press the bearing into the knuckle you press the outer ring of the bearing only (the old outer part of the previous bearing is prefect for this, a slit cut with an angle grinder allows the outer to contract a little so it doesn’t get stuck where the circling fits once fully home).

When you press the drive flange / hub into the centre of the bearing from the front you need to support the rear inner part of the bearing from the rear - if you don’t you shorten the life of the sealed bearing / destroy it.

 

Do not allow the two threaded holes the carrier bolts to to take any load from the press as being cast iron they break off easily 

Edited April 11, 2023 by Dox

[Cressa 44]

On 4/11/2023 at 8:36 AM, Dox said:

For those who’ve never done this, when you press the bearing into the knuckle you press the outer ring of the bearing only (the old outer part of the previous bearing is prefect for this, a slit cut with an angle grinder allows the outer to contract a little so it doesn’t get stuck where the circling fits once fully home).

When you press the drive flange / hub into the centre of the bearing from the front you need to support the rear inner part of the bearing from the rear - if you don’t you shorten the life of the sealed bearing / destroy it.

 

Do not allow the two threaded holes the carrier bolts to to take any load from the press as being cast iron they break off easily 

Absolutely 100% great advice Dox 👍. 

For some reason I don't receive notifications from this and this next page malarkey that doesn't work is still a bloody pain. 

[Cressa 44]

Managed to get one wheel bearing done and back on. Unfortunately the 12 point nut needs a 34mm socket, which I dont have, so waiting for a delivery b4 i torque it up. Looks ok after a paint job

Question... Do I still need to torque this to 200nm and back it ofg, then 50nm and 45° as it is a new hub? Hmmm

 

[fla 9]

Looking good👍 

[_Matt_ 26]

Nice work. Re the torque if you have the 12 sided nut it is the lower figure for torque spec. The higher figure is for the 6 point nut and washer setup

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[1xshaunx1 27]

What you need is a Makita nut runner. Get the other side done and I’ll bring the lads one around and do them both at the same time. Done mine a few times 🤦‍♂️

[Cressa 44]

2 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

What you need is a Makita nut runner. Get the other side done and I’ll bring the lads one around and do them both at the same time. Done mine a few times 🤦‍♂️

🤣🤣 Thanks for the offer. Its took me 2 months to do this one though.... !!

[Cressa 44]

6 hours ago, _Matt_ said:

Nice work. Re the torque if you have the 12 sided nut it is the lower figure for torque spec. The higher figure is for the 6 point nut and washer setup

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I was going on this info, so think I have to go 200 first as I have put a new hub on too..

[Cressa 44]

Turns out it's a 30mm 12 pointed nut!! Damn

[Cressa 44]

Managed to get the hub nut done. I must have been feeling strong as I got to 200nm easier than I thought.  That side is on the floor and it is the passenger sides turn. All off and stripped back. Powder coating removed and sitting in some rust remover. 

Surprisingly the passenger side hub wasn't as bad for corrosion,  yet anything bolted to it was far worse than the drivers side. This will get sorted. 

I also need to get the tyres on this side resealed as the go flat every 3 months

And lastly..... I finally realised that I have the wrong wheel nuts on my car. I have tapered which I kept from the old alloys I had. Maybe my wheel bearings were fine 😳🤣🤣

Radius on order .

[GrahamU 5]

just a single circlip 😦 no wonder there was so play