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Cressa

Karmann the Corrado

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4 minutes ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

 1/2 speed 

What!!  🤣🤣

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On 8/9/2022 at 10:10 AM, Dox said:

Dave16v recently bought the pump only for £65ish uk supplier, maybe drop him a dm?

I half looked at this and should have read it properly.  It was a Porsche described fitment and like a pillock I looked at Corrado and didn't see it...

So I ordered a compatible fuel pump from Fuel pumps online, just under £60 with delivery and vat. Great service as it came next day, BUT

It doesn't actually bloody fit in the housing even though it says compatible with 1H0906091C

Whilst I sort this with them i have ordered a swirl pot unit 1H0906091Q , a Lucas item to see if this fits. I would have begrudgingly ordered a VDO unit and may still do, but as daves16v has found, it is well over a month for delivery

Hopefully it will arrive soon and I can test the car with its newly fitted cam-impulse-hall sensor to see if that has made a difference to its running. Although more likely to be the crank sensor which is stil on it's way from the Fatherland 😁

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That Porsche pump looks to be 3 bar, not 4 bar if you compare it on other sites - just something worth confirming with the supplier before ordering if it is for a VR6 you that you are getting g it for.

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Posted (edited)

Yes I bought that one and it is identical to the original.

As for the VDO, ask them what the delivery is, when I last had contact with them it appeared to be a component supplier problem so they may have stocks of them now.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154800028571?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=juMmlgduQMS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Q5JBmKFXQpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Edited by daves16v

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Bad running update. I have changed the camshaft sensor for a genuine item, but couldn't try it until today due to the fuel pump debacle. Well as I had an hour, I swapped the level sender onto the new Lucas item and fitted it back in the tank and connected in the inline one way valve to.

Started her up, and she is still running badly.... Hopefully as mentioned it will be the Crankshaft sensor that I shall change tomorrow. From Classic parts and was delivered in la week,  happy with that

But if that doesn't cure it..... I will be annoyed 🤬😁

20220821_181604.jpg

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Confused with the NRV, can you post a wider angle pic?

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Posted (edited)

There is also a  circular sensor actually attached to the camshaft   - it’s obsolete - it’s circular and working in tandem with the sensor I believe .  
 

like this 

A6BFCCCE-4C38-4BF2-A505-AE2B82140D94.png

Edited by Keyo

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12 hours ago, Dox said:

Confused with the NRV, can you post a wider angle pic?

It goes on the fuel feed line to the engine to stop the loss of residual pressure down the line back into the pump. It can be a bit hard to make out from the photos, I'll see if I can fine a picture from when I did it.

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Posted (edited)

image.jpeg

Not great resolution, but black is to the engine and blue is the return - the valve is fitted with an extra bith of hose that curves around the lid and then connects to the OUT.

This picture was the now discontinued official VW "fix" for fuel pump leakdown:

20130615_112518_zps02517e5c.jpg

unfortunately that's all I seem to have on it - the original thread with the dealer bulletin seems to be long gone, but the NRV part definitely looks more OEM.

 

Edited by fendervg

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Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, fendervg said:

image.jpeg

Not great resolution, but black is to the engine and blue is the return - the valve is fitted with an extra bith of hose that curves around the lid and then connects to the OUT.

This picture was the now discontinued official VW "fix" for fuel pump leakdown:

20130615_112518_zps02517e5c.jpg

unfortunately that's all I seem to have on it - the original thread with the dealer bulletin seems to be long gone, but the NRV part definitely looks more OEM.

 

Cressas appears to be backwards, the arrow on the NRV is pointing against the flow?

If the pipe wraps around the tank like yours it's is correct, I imagined it looped anti clock and the arrow on the NRV would then be the wrong direction.

Edited by Dox

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Posted (edited)

Possible - hard to tell, I think it is right provided the upper black hose on the right goes to the fuel filter and then the black feed pipe, but depends on how the extra length of hose has been looped and routed. With it the wrong way around I would think you would have a no start situation and no fuel flowing past where the valve is. A bigger picture would help.

Some better pictures in this thread:

https://the-corrado.net/topic/86717-one-way-valve-on-fuel-pumppipes/

Thing is in this one, a  faulty CPS was the culprit - not necessarily broken, but an intermittent or weak signal, and this can play havoc with the fueling as the CPS tells the fuel pump relay when to run the pump once it detects the engine turning. My guess here is that replacing the CPS will solve it, and cold starts after sitting for a while will be improved by the non return valve - fingers crossed!

Edited by fendervg

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Personally I’d rather fit an under bonnet fuel pressure gauge than an NRV, then you’d know exactly what the pressure was on a non start / long crank.

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Just connect a mechanical pressure gauge permanently to the test nipple on the fuel rail! Even better would be to have the read-out in the cabin.

I connected a gauge to do all the tests during troubleshooting mine a few years back - cranking pressure was fine, and running as well - but when left standing the residual pressure would drop well below the tolerance specified in the workshop manual.

 

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Posted (edited)

Hey Cressa re the NRV - back in early ownership I had starting issues when warm. I did a load of troubleshooting and also fitted the valve to try and solve but it didn't. My issue turned out to be leaky fuel injectors. On cold start fuel pressure built up and it was enough to start the car. When the car was warm the injectors leaked into the cylinders and flooded the engine. The car would crank and crank and eventually splutter into life.

Edit to add I also had a new fuel pump fitted at the time too but Vince said mine was noisey and it was done as job after the above work and before I got the car back so not sure whether it was linked. 

Like you I did the crank, camshaft, all temp sensors before Stealth took a look. 

 

Edited by MJA

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Update time.... been a busy day

 

20220822_154858.jpg

Hopefully this shows it better Dox. I can assure you it is on the pressure side. I disconnected the black pipe, put the NRV on and got some Keyo recommended fuel pipe to link the tank connection looped round the the valve ( would have been a good shout if it didn't start )

As it was still poor running I managed to fit the Crankshaft sensor.  Damn the electrical plug is a swine to get to... Started her up and she still wasnt brilliant so I also did a bit of a stationary ecu result holding the revs 1k high each time then back down again and now she is happy. I've ran her up to 120° on the oil temp and she starts warm, the best ever

I will try again later and post up the starting.

What I can not do is specifically say that one item has solved this. Okay the crankshaft sensor made it better, but was that because of my attempted ecu reset too.

Is the warm start better because of the non return valve, as fendervg has said about the VW fix

Is it the new 4 bar swirlpot that i fitted.... only a Lucas item 1H0906091Q cheap but quality and a perfect fit too. Maybe one day I will get the VDO item but I will see how this behaves. It's nice to know that the Q version fits our tanks identically. 

I Still have something else to look at in the engine, but for now I am having a deserved cuppa to celebrate her running with thanks to all of us forum members

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6 hours ago, fendervg said:

Just connect a mechanical pressure gauge permanently to the test nipple on the fuel rail! Even better would be to have the read-out in the cabin.

I connected a gauge to do all the tests during troubleshooting mine a few years back - cranking pressure was fine, and running as well - but when left standing the residual pressure would drop well below the tolerance specified in the workshop manual.

 

So a "prime" button on the dash firing the fuel relay prior to cranking would help this situation?

Many have swapped the FPR believing it was the cause of the pressure losses, but in MJAs case it was leaking injectors also flooding bores preventing a spark - double whammy!

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3 hours ago, Cressa said:

Update time.... been a busy day

 

20220822_154858.jpg

Hopefully this shows it better Dox. I can assure you it is on the pressure side. I disconnected the black pipe, put the NRV on and got some Keyo recommended fuel pipe to link the tank connection looped round the the valve ( would have been a good shout if it didn't start )

As it was still poor running I managed to fit the Crankshaft sensor.  Damn the electrical plug is a swine to get to... Started her up and she still wasnt brilliant so I also did a bit of a stationary ecu result holding the revs 1k high each time then back down again and now she is happy. I've ran her up to 120° on the oil temp and she starts warm, the best ever

I will try again later and post up the starting.

What I can not do is specifically say that one item has solved this. Okay the crankshaft sensor made it better, but was that because of my attempted ecu reset too.

Is the warm start better because of the non return valve, as fendervg has said about the VW fix

Is it the new 4 bar swirlpot that i fitted.... only a Lucas item 1H0906091Q cheap but quality and a perfect fit too. Maybe one day I will get the VDO item but I will see how this behaves. It's nice to know that the Q version fits our tanks identically. 

I Still have something else to look at in the engine, but for now I am having a deserved cuppa to celebrate her running with thanks to all of us forum members

You'll get there - these things are here to test us but in doing so replacing these parts ticking off the list means its one less thing to go wrong in the near future .

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29 minutes ago, Dox said:

So a "prime" button on the dash firing the fuel relay prior to cranking would help this situation?

Many have swapped the FPR believing it was the cause of the pressure losses, but in MJAs case it was leaking injectors also flooding bores preventing a spark - double whammy!

I like the idea of having a gauge connected so you know what is always happening, what an upgrade. VDO gauge upgrade

Another positive as I started the car this evening and all is good. No fault codes showing on VCDS either. No more smoke from the bonnet area but I do need to replace / repair the muffler to quieten it back down

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2 days later and I went to start her.... turned over but would not fire. 🤬🤬🤬

Finally got to have a look at it today and noticed I had disconnected the coil pack plug whilst refitting the cable guide there. Easy fix but did have me worried.

I also managed to repair and refit the muffler at the back of the manifold and the car is a lot quieter. Whoever said a Schrick manifold does not need this is so so wrong as it is lovely and quiet again

All the trims put back on and she is happy again. If only I could get her past this mk2 golf 😳😂

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Latest update.

Warm starting is perfect.  Miracle cure without it turning over forever and ever

Cold start..... well, starts immediately but the idle is not brilliant until she is warm, then becomes perfect again.

I have read about a blue sensor! Controlling this but 99% sure mine were new VAG 

Or could it be that I haven't been able to take her out for a run to re-learn her values. She did go flat once this year and I am putting 2 and 2 together...

I shall try and dig through some old receipts for what I bought.

Any other suggestions gentlemen,  as I dont like running her when she is cold

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