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peterpp

VR6 Newbie

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22 minutes ago, James. said:

Sure. Fire me some pictures and part number and we’ll take it from there. Thanks.

Here are some pictures has been stored indoors. As mentioned sold unknown condition therefore has been priced accordingly at £65.00 for parts . My 95 VR has a black sticker with a part number starting 1H form memory so no point me keeping it. 

un1.jpg

un2.jpg

un3.jpg

un4.jpg

Edited by Keyo

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18 hours ago, James. said:

 

I thought your wife wanted the garden back ?

Oh she does, Started with 7 cars, the golf I broke leaves 6, golf mk7 estate will go before insurance renewal in april, leaves 5, Storm once stripped and gone leaves 4 - one in each of the garages, one on the drive and one parked on street and she has here patio back.

All I've got to do is keep away from ebay, Marketplace and any other auction in the country (covid has been a real help with this).

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I now have a working pump, but it seems the the ECU if the footwell is also faulty - it is showing a left rear wheel speed sensor fault, but the sensor signal appears to be correct.  I got another ECU from ebay, the left wheel rear sensor fault went away, but it showed a right rear speed sensor fault!  I think this proves it is an ECU issue?

Just wondering if anyone on the forum might have an ECU for sale?  Part Numbers are 1H0 907 379 E / 10.0941-0323.4

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Check the plug for corrosion, windscreen leaks leave the ecu vulnerable to water ingress.

ECU is common, suffix E has a crude version of traction control, the whole set up was also fitted to early MK3s with rectangular wing mounted side repeaters, the ecu on MK3s lives under the rear seats in the dry. Expect to pay around £30.

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On 12/28/2020 at 4:02 PM, Dox said:

Check the plug for corrosion, windscreen leaks leave the ecu vulnerable to water ingress.

ECU is common, suffix E has a crude version of traction control, the whole set up was also fitted to early MK3s with rectangular wing mounted side repeaters, the ecu on MK3s lives under the rear seats in the dry. Expect to pay around £30.

Thanks for the advice.  I have sourced an ECU from a Mk3 Golf for just a bit over £30 and (having replaced the rear sensors) the ABS warning light goes out after ignition.  However a test drive has shown a pedal position sensor fault.  I have seen the very helpful posts about the solder joints coming apart in the switch, so I am hoping that will be the issue.  Just in case it's worse than that, if anyone has one for sale please let me know! 

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3 hours ago, peterpp said:

The pedal position sensor just needed re-soldering - I now have a fully functioning ABS system! 😊

Well done and thanks for letting us know things worked out for minimal outlay

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MOT due later this month... I have a stone chip on the nearside front headlight which has led to a lot of condensation.  I can take the unit out and dry it out to get through the MOT, but to be honest the headlights have always been quite dim, and I have been led to believe this is a common complaint?  I have seen posts (now quite old) regarding replacement headlight looms - can anyone advise on a good solution - will this allow more powerful bulbs that make the standard units much better (I want to keep the car as original as possible).  It's quite a small hole - could it be repaired with the stuff used for cracked windscreens??

20220410_headlight.jpg

Edited by peterpp
add image

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Uprated looms are very good and there has been a recent group buy, you're about 5 days too late unfortunately. 

Also, it looks like your reflectors are in a pretty poor state which may necessitate refurbishment anyway. Dual metallising are very good, the pair will cost you £180ish returned. You'll obviously need a replacement lens as well as it'll just end up like that before long. The reflector is a very important part of light output and pattern especially, and that will be an MOT fail.

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I would not drive a Corrado or Mk2 at night without an uprated loom and some osram nightbreakers or equivalent in there unless I had no choice - otherwise it's a suicide mission, and you are a hazard to others as well because you won't be able to see them in time. Better windscreen wipers are another must - these two upgrades are probably essentials before anyone starts looking at any performance/suspension items.

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Thanks for the advice.  I took the headlight out and when I removed the lens the reflectors actually looked in good condition.  I filled the hole from the inside with clear apoxy glue and it has made a waterproof seal, although it is going yellow quite quickly! Not long after my last post a DG Autotech loom appeared on ebay, and the improvement is amazing even with the standard bulbs!  The car passed it's MOT!

20220418_121411.jpg20220508_095043.jpg20220508_094452.jpg20220418_121526.jpg

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A couple of other things I could use some advice on.  I have purchased 2 pairs of Audi TT Wiper Arms as I believe I need to fit 2 x drivers side arms - what blades should I buy?  Also the MOT had an advisory for the bonnet insulation which is starting to flake quite badly.  I have read some poor reviews for the kit supplied by heritage, what is the current recommendation?

Edited by peterpp

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Those reflectors look great, good to see they've stood the test of time. As far as blades go, I can't remember I've got a feeling it's 19" & 17" blades that you need. If you offer up your originals, you'll see how the sweep is and you should be able to tell what you need. As long as they don't foul the seal when vertical you'll be good.

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Heritage stuff is an abomination does not represent the stock foam at all - its like a gimps mask.

Sprinter stuff is the best quality and the most expensive and shipped from Germany. 

Dreadnought Im very happy with and good price - does late and early options. 

https://dreadnoughtcustoms.co.uk/products/vw-corrado-bonnet-lining-2

Attached picture of what i got from audi  . 

 

14BB776F-7CE6-44D2-8EE4-0C3F8885F50A.jpeg

Edited by Keyo

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Oh dear, the alternator belt came off, (sudden loss of power stearing, battery light on) when I was less than a mile from home and (I now realise stupidly) tried to limp the car back while keeping a close eye on the temperature guage but the heater matrix exploded with a couple of hundred metres to go.  Hoping this was not a symptom of the head gasket failing and presurising the system - I have read that the heater matrix is one of the Corrado's wll known weak points, maybe it was on the way out and got a bit too hot.  The oil in the head still looks clean no white bits Just wondering if there is a guide to removing the dash on this site, and any recommendations  on where to get a good quality belt and new tensioner?

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41 minutes ago, peterpp said:

Oh dear, the alternator belt came off, (sudden loss of power stearing, battery light on) when I was less than a mile from home and (I now realise stupidly) tried to limp the car back while keeping a close eye on the temperature guage but the heater matrix exploded with a couple of hundred metres to go.  Hoping this was not a symptom of the head gasket failing and presurising the system - I have read that the heater matrix is one of the Corrado's wll known weak points, maybe it was on the way out and got a bit too hot.  The oil in the head still looks clean no white bits Just wondering if there is a guide to removing the dash on this site, and any recommendations  on where to get a good quality belt and new tensioner?

hi there

if you send me your email address i will send you a full guide with pictures on how to change the matrix

be very very careful driving a VR6 with no cooling, the block is aluminium & can warp if ran for too long without sufficient cooling

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Join the heater matrix pipes together in the engine bay. This way you can run the engine and see how it is.  Get yourself a hella or valeo one if you can.

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I purchased a new belt, bearing, pink coolant, distilled water and 22mm flexible pipe. However now I have removed the unit, it turns out the pulley had melted!  Is it possible to buy a new pulley and if so what make should I look out for?  Needless to say I would rather fit good quality parts once!

tensioner_pulley_melted.jpg

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WOW, Jesus........ 

I think Gates were the oe make and readily available. Easy to change and I believe there is even a how to on this forum in the wiki

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It seems the same tensioner is fitted to a Ford Galaxy and I managed to get a brand new complete unit for £50, and having fitted it using the recommended flexible pipe, I found the car runs absolutley fine so no blown head gasket/damage to the engine.  I have the guide to remove the dashboard , and now it's warmer in the garage, I want to replace the internal pipework and the heater matrix.  The connectors that go through the bulkhead are in very poor condition, they sort of crumbled when I took that pipes off, and I had the correct tool to loosen the clips.  For quite a while prior to the pipe bursting I had been hearing air in the internal pipes, so maybe that was a cause.  Can anyone provide advice on where I can buy the internal pipework, matrix & bulkhead connectors? Or is it a case of just buying the matrix and a length of pipe which I shape myself (how would I do that?) and some copper pipe to go through the bulkhead?  Once again really appreciate the help for thoise with prior experience.

heater_bypass_1.jpg

heater_pipes_bulkhead.jpg

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