Vr6 subframe and rear axle build

[BEGBIE 0]

Hi, I’ve just had all the gubbins under the car powder coated and I’m looking to start the rebuild. I have the VW Corrado Service Manual but would prefer to learn from someone that also gives hints and tips. Does anyone know of a decent ‘how to’ for the subframe assembly and rear axle? Thanks

[seanl82 23]

Rear axle is pretty easy, just keep the mounting bracket bolts loose until the car is back on the floor, roll the car forward a little as they'll move into the correct position then, and torque them up from there. 

Front subframe, the only thing worth mentioning as not in the Bentley is to mount the steering rack and connect the pipes loosely before raising and mounting it, as they're an absolute turd to get on in situ. Make sure the rack is centered too and the steering wheel is straight so the column lines up to the groove for the bolt. That's another PITA as the rubber boot gets in the way! 

Edited November 10, 2020 by seanl82

[BEGBIE 0]

Thanks Sean, much appreciated. Stupid question, is the Bentley manual the same as the repair manual from VW? I have the repair manual. Ta

[fendervg 32]

The Bentley was/is an expensive factory authorised  compiled reproduction of the US market VW dealer repair database - it covers the G60 and SLC/2.8 VR6 engines, but not the 16/8v/2.9, although the VR engines are more or less identical and the others can be found in the Haynes series. Everything else - brakes, chassis, body and interior and most electrics is the same. It's the only, albeit incomplete, resource for the Corrado. Watch out for differences in the wiring diagrams.

What VW stuff do you have? Most 80/90s stuff was on now defunct microfiche, or came in individual ble/white VAG service and repair booklets. Most of these were in German and an English set for UK/Europe cars is very hard to find.

Rear axle and front subframe will be exactly the same details in both. Hope that clears it up a bit with the risk of confusing things even more. But if you have actual english language UK Corrado manuals, I'd say there might be a few here interested in them - there was an effort to scan some of these in the past but I think it never got finished.

[BEGBIE 0]

Hi, the manual I have is this one. Downloaded from one of the Facebook forums

[fendervg 32]

That’s the Bentley - either the official pdf or a scanned version.

[BEGBIE 0]

Cool, thanks for that 👍🏻

[ABV-VR6 12]

I'm about to remove the rear axle (my first time) and was looking on the forum. These are good advise. 

I loosen all the bolts. The abs is disconnected. The e-brake cables are removed. The rear proportioning valve is not attached to the beam anymore. I think I'm ready to go. I was thinking of putting a bunch of 4x4 lumber under the beam for when it goes down. Should be heavy, all the rear brakes are still on... 

I thinking of removing 4 of the 6 bolts from the front brackets under the car. Then removing the bolt on each rear coilovers. Then the last 2 on the front bracket and it goes down. For you mates who has done it, does it sounds like a good plan? Or a different order for the bolts?

Thanks for the help as usual, cheers 

[seanl82 23]

Sounds like a decent plan there. The bolts that go through the brackets in to the bushes can foul on the sill lip, so removing with the brackets in place makes sense. Dropping the back where the brakes mount onto some lumber is good, though it doesn't go down all the way to the floor when the rear suspension is removed anyway. Put a jack under the cross section at the front, remove all the bolts then lower it down from there. It's not as heavy as you'd think, so should be easy enough to manoeuvre out.

[ABV-VR6 12]

11 hours ago, seanl82 said:

Sounds like a decent plan there. The bolts that go through the brackets in to the bushes can foul on the sill lip, so removing with the brackets in place makes sense. Dropping the back where the brakes mount onto some lumber is good, though it doesn't go down all the way to the floor when the rear suspension is removed anyway. Put a jack under the cross section at the front, remove all the bolts then lower it down from there. It's not as heavy as you'd think, so should be easy enough to manoeuvre out.

Thank you, makes me feel more confident to do it now. I improvise every steps so it's good to have my thoughts validated, thanks! I'll probably tackle this today! Cheers 

[1xshaunx1 27]

It’s a lot easier when the bolts aren’t rusted solid. 
I’m sure you’ll be fine mate. 

[ABV-VR6 12]

Well, I got it out thanks mates. 

I did has suggested, jack under the beam, a few 4x4 where the brakes are to minimize the drop. I attached the proportioning valve to the frame to make sure it was out of the way when the beam was going down. Only surprise is the rear shock bolt. The one by the exhaust, I could move the exhaust and get the bolt out but the one by the gas tank is a different story. So the other for the bolts order it's best to do the 4 at the front, one shock muffler side, then remaining 2 at the front (make sure the jack is touching with no pressure) then you can move the beam sideways to get the remaining gas tank side shock bolt. 

Cheers! 

[ABV-VR6 12]

This is the only part that shows rust on the car, I'm stripping it all out fir powder coating. 

[Bruno 4]

I hope this isnt too far of a deviation on this thread. I have my car on axle stands and have been tidying up the rear suspension and rear beam. Will probably move to the front in the next four weeks. So here's the question:

Has anybody managed to find a manageable way to remove the engine (rear) subframe - the one with the wishbones and ARB, and which cradles the steering rack. - from below? I thought to undo the engine and gearbox mounts; support the engine, somehow loosen the subframe from the body, then see if it is possible to remove the clamps holding the steering rack, and drop the subframe with its wishbones as a complete assembly.

The intention is to tidy up the subframe, the wishbones and refit.

Is this a crazy mad idea, or is it workable? If it is workable, any suggestions would be welcomed.

Edited January 27, 2021 by Bruno

[ABV-VR6 12]

You know, I've just done it not that way since the engine is out already but I did just remove the K frame and wishbone and the whole steering stuff. 

I never done it the way you're thinking of doing it but I would think it should work. Of course the first thing would be to secure the engine with a crane and maybe a jack underneath just in case. Then, un bolting the steering rack (4 screws) from the K frame if you don't want to mess with that. Remove everything related at the wish bone or straight at the knuckle where the struts are attached if you want the whole thing out ( if not ball joints, tie rid ends).  Then I would carry on with the 3 per side bolts that holds the K frame. I would finish by the the 2 rear engine mounts so you're over the frame when it drops. I think it's doable seriously! That's on top of my head right now... Questions? 

[Bruno 4]

My worries were (i) getting access to the engine mount bolts under the servo (ii) whether those steering rack screws might be a problem (iii) centering the rack. Have already removed the ball joints for the rack to the hub carrier and wishbones. Thoughts?

[seanl82 23]

I did this using an engine support. Loads of room to get at the rear mount bolt (just the one accessed above). Remove the rack pipes and rack will come down with the subframe. Make a note of the length each side between two points of the rack/track rods so it'll be centralised when you put it back on. The spline nut can only go on one way so it won't be difficult to identify if it's out of alignment, but connect the pipes first before raising the subframe back up as they're a bastid to get on when in place (as is the spline because the boot gets in the way of your vision).

[ABV-VR6 12]

You can do what Sean said and that should definitely work. 

I don't think you would have any problems centering it since the 4 bolts that holds the steering rack in place are fixed in the K frame which means it only goes where it needs to go. From the top of the rack, you would have only the 4 nuts to remove. Once the K frame drops, the steering rack will just be "hanging there" if you remove the tie rod ends first 

[ABV-VR6 12]

Didn't finish my thoughts but that way I would think you wouldn't have to align the steering since you would be leaving it in place. But if you want the steering down, then do what Sean said and good advice about reconnecting the pipes first. It shouldn't be that hard to reconnect, like he said there's a notch on it. Keep us posted! 

[Bruno 4]

Yes please. Mind if I post here? I'll also update progress on the use of that strange tool I bought on Ebay to help install new bushes on the rear beam.

[Bruno 4]

Hi guys. Taking the K frame off and hit a glitch I wasn't expecting. There's an M8 bolt which ties the steering column to the steering rack  My bolt seems frozen- and given where it is, as my engine  is still in place, this is a right pain. 

Is this something that anybody else has faced? Apart from WD40, any suggestions? Dare not cook the bolt - the rubber boot is still hanging over it.   

[ABV-VR6 12]

Mine came up easy but my engine was out... I can imagine the pain with the engine in place. Maybe try some penetrating oil over night and try the next day? You could try to warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer? Torch would be best but with the rubber boot it's a no go... 

[Cressa 44]

This spray is far superior to wd40. Bought from Eurocarparts . I managed to remove my passat turbo manifold without breaking any studs. Miracle for me

[Dox 23]

1 hour ago, Cressa said:

This spray is far superior to wd40. Bought from Eurocarparts . I managed to remove my passat turbo manifold without breaking any studs. Miracle for me

Eurocarparts and superior, two words you never see in the same post?

[Bruno 4]

Indeed. Ok. Will drop in there and buy one. Methinks that it may be easier to let the rack stay in place and drop the K frame, replace the rack bushes, reduce the hassle.