Electric windows

[jenkiam 0]

Can anyone point me to a definitive explanation of how to replace the electric window regulator on a 95 car? Lots of threads on here with broken links so I'm not having any joy finding wat i need

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

7 minutes ago, jenkiam said:

Can anyone point me to a definitive explanation of how to replace the electric window regulator on a 95 car? Lots of threads on here with broken links so I'm not having any joy finding wat i need

have you had a look through the wiki pages?

https://the-corrado.net/forum/34-wiki-amp-knowledge-base/

[fendervg 29]

Not an easy one I'm afraid - but doable with a bit of patience and double jointed elbows.

- inner handles and door card off (watch for hidden screws at front and behind the speaker trim)

- remove what's left of the waterproof membrane, if any

- remove inner and outer door scrapers to remove glass for access if needed (can be propped up but is very heavy)

- disconnect loom to regulator

- drill 3-5 rivets holding regulator and motor in place

- test new regulator on bench to be sure it works

- replace, mounting with new rivets and rubber bushes (can also use bolt/nut combination for the rivet mounting which can make life easier in future)

- replace the plastic window rollers with poly items while in there, clean and grease the rail 

It's not possible to replace the motor on it's own, it comes as a compete unit with the cables and guides attached. Sometimes they just stick, and a good working over with a mallet will sort them - also check your switch and control module  is not faulty by running some current from a 12v leisure battery to the motor while in situ to check (reverse polarity to open and close).

Hope that helps - been a while since I did it so sure to have missed something - there are some vids on YouTuve, but the best write up was on the Canadian Corrado web site.

[Dox 22]

The motor has 2 connections, I suggest before you remove the whole assembly you apply 12v directly to it to se if you actually need to remove it.

[fla 9]

8 minutes ago, Dox said:

The motor has 2 connections, I suggest before you remove the whole assembly you apply 12v directly to it to se if you actually need to remove it.

This.

My passenger side window was stuck (battery had been out of the car for a while)  applied 12v from a small battery, didn't move it.  Assumed that the motor was seized and proceeded to drill out the motor rivets.  Just thought i'd spray the the window channels and runners just i case they were where the window was stuck.  Tried my spare car battery and guess what, the window moved down.  Needed a bit of persuasion and proper cleaning of the channels but it was fine.  Some scrubbing and silicone spray later and its all fine.  Just had to replace the motor bobbins - managed to get two out but the third didn't want to budge - access is difficult when the motor is fitted. Used some 15mm bobbins with an m6 female thread on one side so you can used screws from the inside.

But obviously it turned out to be unnecessary to have drilled the motor rivets if i had used a proper battery and common sense first!

Edited April 25, 2022 by fla

[fendervg 29]

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol:

You definitely don't want to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Edited April 25, 2022 by fendervg

[Dox 22]

3 hours ago, fendervg said:

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol:

You definitely don't to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Sorry, I missed that. I’ve a pair of croc clips (ex battery charger), in-line fuse and the two common sizes of female spade connectors, I power up many things with them to test off the car. A worthwhile addition to any workshop and free

[seanl82 23]

Indeed. I use my ctek battery charger on supply mode with a pair of wires with spades for this very purpose. Inbuilt trip so no need for fuse. 👍

[fla 9]

17 hours ago, fendervg said:

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol:

You definitely don't want to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Agreed.  When my d/s mech failed i stripped the motor down and cleaned it all up before refitting.  I would certainly recommend doing this with any second-hand unit.  Not difficult at all, and quite satisfying when its done.

[fla 9]

This one again.  D/S window is very slow when it goes up.  Unscrewed the glass and checked the operation of the regulator.  Nice and smooth (i greased the motor etc a few years back).  The glass itself doesnt seem to move smoothly though.  Tried moving it up and down by hand and if definitely seems to bind on the lock side of the door.  And when connected there is some kind of click as it moves from fully down to about 1/3 the way up.  Is there any way to remove the glass without taking the regulator out?  Also, any ideas as to what it could be binding on?  The yellow plastic cable guide at the top basically touches the glass and i cant seem to move it away.  Tried using a piece of felt there but that came off after a few runs.  

Welcome any suggestions.  Thanks

[James. 7]

Have you tried spraying the inner seals and anything touching the glass with silicone spray ?

It worked wonders for mine.

[fendervg 29]

Just an idea - there is a central locking actuator wire that goes from the door handle to a connection clipped on to the door panel - it is suppsed to go down the rear wall of the door - there are two cable clips that sit in holes in the panel - maybe these have come loose and it is catching on the glass? Easy way to check would be to remove the handle securing screw and see how far you can pull the handle out - with the cable tight it should hardly budge at the lock end. The silicone grease is a good plan as well.

[1xshaunx1 27]

Agreed could be fouling on the wiring. 
you can get the window out from the top. 
have it come up so you can get to the 2 off m10 Bolts holding it to the regulator. Remove the bolts. Lift it by hand until the front comes out of its  guide, then lower the front as you raise the rear out of its guide. Then lift it out rear first on an angle. 

[fla 9]

Thanks for the input. Sprayed the guides quite liberally with silicone spray but it didn't seem to improve much. Used some lithium grease on the rhs channel near the lock but that too didn't do much. It was hard to grease though, as access is limited.

I'll check the cable, that could very well be the issue. And I'll see how things go once i manage to remove the glass...

[1xshaunx1 27]

I missed out you have to pry the ball joints out of the plastic bushes on the metal slider at the bottom of the window before or after the 2 off m10 bolts to fully disengage it from the window regulator. A good time to replace the bushes if you have some. 

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

12 hours ago, fla said:

This one again.  D/S window is very slow when it goes up.  Unscrewed the glass and checked the operation of the regulator.  Nice and smooth (i greased the motor etc a few years back).  The glass itself doesnt seem to move smoothly though.  Tried moving it up and down by hand and if definitely seems to bind on the lock side of the door.  And when connected there is some kind of click as it moves from fully down to about 1/3 the way up.  Is there any way to remove the glass without taking the regulator out?  Also, any ideas as to what it could be binding on?  The yellow plastic cable guide at the top basically touches the glass and i cant seem to move it away.  Tried using a piece of felt there but that came off after a few runs.  

Welcome any suggestions.  Thanks

interesting this as the D/S does very similar in the 16v

i know i brought a couple of sets of window rollers in the group buy years ago but ive not been able to find them

[Dox 22]

Worn roller cause the window to rattle - especially when closing the door window part way down.

Passenger side won't be as worn, you could switch them around

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

22 hours ago, Dox said:

Worn roller cause the window to rattle - especially when closing the door window part way down.

Passenger side won't be as worn, you could switch them around

good thinking dox 

i know i brought 2 sets that is the annoying thing - i might have a search through the group buys to check who did the run of them previously

if i can get the 3D printer file i might be able to get some done somewhere

[Dox 22]

11 minutes ago, g0ldf1ng3r said:

good thinking dox 

i know i brought 2 sets that is the annoying thing - i might have a search through the group buys to check who did the run of them previously

if i can get the 3D printer file i might be able to get some done somewhere

I found a used one yesterday if it’s any good to you?

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

21 minutes ago, Dox said:

I found a used one yesterday if it’s any good to you?

that would be handy dox thank you

i might be able to get my friend to get the dimensions from it & then use it to try & stop the slight rattle on the VR6 d/s

[Dox 22]

I replaced mine on the drivers door, one was destroyed (rear?) the other I posted to a member here for reuse. PM your address and I'll get it posted to you.

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

1 hour ago, Dox said:

I replaced mine on the drivers door, one was destroyed (rear?) the other I posted to a member here for reuse. PM your address and I'll get it posted to you.

briliiant thank you m8 - will do it now 🙂

[Cressa 43]

I have the group buy ones if you need an unused one. Pretty sure I broke one too whilst trying  to fit it, so gave up 🤣

[Dox 22]

1 hour ago, Cressa said:

I have the group buy ones if you need an unused one. Pretty sure I broke one too whilst trying  to fit it, so gave up 🤣

Id suggest warming them in boiling water, drying the socket and squeezing them on with pump pliers with the roller already inside the channel.

All Corrado plastics should be warm(ed with a hairdryer) before removal

[fendervg 29]

A small bit of grease and a long water pump pliers worked fine for me to fit the rollers - put them in the channel. line up the ball on the arm and a slight amount of preasure should do it. You might need to move the window up and down to get the optimum position to get at it.