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Anyone a VR6 Expert (Brakes)

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Car failed MOT, they said that the brake pedal travel was to far, bled the system, undone the nipple on the Master Cylinder and that bled out immediatley, when pushing the brake pedal do get the 'hiss' from the servo, should that be silent? Any ideas as the pedal has always been like that and I have obviously got used to it??

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do your brakes work fine other than the excessive travel? because you can just adjust the sevro from inside the car out a bit to take up the slack I had to do this when I put twin pot calipers on the front of mine

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Long pedal travel is indicative of either air in the system and or very worn brake components. Does your brake pedal travel become less if you pump the pedal repetatively? If yes to this then you have air in the system. Bleeding is the answer to this once you have checked the system for any other faults. As regards the servo you can carry out a simple check on this by pumping the brake pedal 5 to 6 times apprx to discharge the servo stored vaccum, the start the engine whilst at the same time pressing upon the brake pedal. You should feel the pedal drop and give a little owing to the servo effect. Try these tests and see how you go. Give me a call if you need further help.

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Cheers Lads,

 

I have bled the system and I have adjusted the servo inside the car to take up any slack. I do need new pads so I'll do that, my concern was that their are bleed nipples coming out the woodwork on these cars 2 on the ABS system as well.

 

Having adjusted the servo their is improvement but still a little bit spongy?? Will bleed the system dry maybe and put fresh fliuid and new pads in.

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What state are your rear brakes in? if they're corroded up and non-functioning, the fronts will do all the work and also give a spongey and vague pedal.

 

If the rear discs are scored and have rusty, unwiped areas on them...... not a good sign.

 

Mine were like that for 18 months and wrongly assumed that VR6 brakes are just rubbish in general and the backs barely did anything anyway.....

 

But since replacing all the brake stuff at the back, the transformation has been unbelievable....

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Kev,

 

did you ever find out what that spare bit was in your series of photos of your new rear discs the other day - the part that looked like a spacer? I'm about to do mine, so it would be good to know.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

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It taps over the stub axle and butts up to the stub axle's bolts. It's some kind of protector for the rear bearing seal. Stops bits of grit and small stones getting wedged between the stub axle bolts and the seal.....i.e shredding it to peices!

 

I just hammered the old ones off and tapped the new ones on.

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Having adjusted the servo their is improvement but still a little bit spongy?? Will bleed the system dry maybe and put fresh fliuid and new pads in.

 

How did you go about adjusting the servo?

 

I had a nightmare bleeding my VR6, and it didn't make much difference either. Make sure you do the master cylinder nipple while your at it.

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Well, I bought new rotors from VAG, and true to form they didn't advise me about the covers.

 

What's the matter, aren't they in business to sell spare parts - and what happened to professional integrity? Yes, I know, at this stage in life I should understand the inadequacies of others, but I've rarely come across such a crowd of sour-faced and plainly dis-interested incompetents.

 

I feel better now, thank you.

 

Best wishes

 

RB (Grumpy Old Man, but paying customer nonetheless)

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Well, I bought new rotors from VAG, and true to form they didn't advise me about the covers.

 

What's the matter, aren't they in business to sell spare parts - and what happened to professional integrity? Yes, I know, at this stage in life I should understand the inadequacies of others, but I've rarely come across such a crowd of sour-faced and plainly dis-interested incompetents.

 

I feel better now, thank you.

 

Best wishes

 

RB (Grumpy Old Man, but paying customer nonetheless)

 

It pays to have your own copy of EKTA 6 and then you can tell the parts people exactly what you want, rather than them guessing or missing parts out.

 

You can leave the existing seal protectors there. Just sand them down and paint them if they're rusty. To be honest, the new ones just get bent out of shape as you tap them on, so unless you have the correct diameter length of metal tubing to press them on over the stub axle, I'd retain the existing ones.

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EKTA 6 ? What are you guys on about?

 

Discs are iffy actually so will make sure the rear pistons have not been getting lazy.

 

As far as I was concerned you removed the bearing nut/split pin/washer/ bearing race etc pull off the disc (with caliper removed) clean it, grease it "reinstallation is reversal of removal" with shiny bits!

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kangarooboy, I adjusted the input rod which is attached to the brake pedal and wound it out a little to take up the excess play.

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