Kevin Bacon

I think the only time the chain snaps is when it becomes so slack or when teeth jump and pistons hit valves, locking the cam solid.....something's gotta give!

Nice bow wave! Standard airbox will be fine as the headlight will deflect most of the water and any that does end up in there will drain out of the holes in the bottom half. Max revs and driving too fast would be a different story tho!

Yeah VW switched the pig tail diameter on the later car for some reason! B8s should be a good match with the pro springs if they're only -25 to 30mm. Enjoy!

The ride will probably be the same as B8 & B12 in terms of damper stiffness, but if you're going for mild drop, B6 or B8 is what I'd go with. It'll be the Eibach springs that determine the ride quality overall. The B12 kit may even be the best option as that's what Bilstein put together themselves for the Corrado. Mixing and and matching may not give the best results!

Yeah I'd go with the B6 personally.

I had Gaz Golds on mine back in 2007ish and they performed really well, but were schitt quality, which is common with low volume UK made stuff.

The difference between B6, B8 and B12 is pretty much the damper stroke. The bigger the number, the shorter the piston rods are. B6 tends to be more OEM and very mild lowering orientated, and B8 & B12 are for bigger drops.

I tried RS15, DS2500, Yellow stuff and some other pad I forget right now, but the Yellows were by far the worst. The RS15 was loads better than the DS2500. They felt the same from cold but the 15 was just something else when hot! Something to bear in mind with race pads is the corrosive dust some of them kick off. The high metal content can literally burn holes into the wheel lacquer. The RS15s were the worst for that and the Yellows the best, but stopping power was more of a priority for me, so didn't mind scruffy looking rims!

Shame, they were good pads! Just looked on Pagid Racing's site and the RST1 looks similar in behaviour to the old RS15, or it might be even better!

The only 911 I've had a decent drive of was a 993 3.6 wide body. That was really nice. My Rado was supercharged at the time and I remember thinking the 993 would pretty much murder it everywhere except in a straight line, and even then only right at the top of the rev band. So yeah, a 911 is definitely a big step up, even an ancient one like the 993! Awesome cars. Would love a 997 but can't really justify it at the moment. Every 997 / 991 I see these days is driven by middle aged blokes driving them at 60 everywhere. Such a waste. I hope you cane the arse off it!!

All I'm seeing there is

If it's an early AUE engine 4Motion, you should be able to run the 12V from the MK4 management, thereby keeping all the Haldex / ABS & Steering angle communications intact. Pedal box won't have to change either as the DBW throttle can easily be mounted to an adapter plate. You'll probably need the 24V's cam trigger wheel on the 12V engine and with a little remapping, it should work I reckon.

Try stripping it down and cleaning it first. They get gunked up with junk floating around in the cooling system. All you do is undo the 3 screws holding the 2 halves together, dead easy.

'Fasteners', so American!

Nah, not my cup of tea! I know it's a pristine example but it will still drive like an 80s car!

What a bargain! http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/ford/sierra/ford-sierra-2-0-rs-cosworth-500-3dr/4431971

Always wanted to do that to mine but never got around to it! Glad to hear it works well!

Agreed but GTIs are problematic as well!

Dealer only on that. A few of us have had issues with cheap copies.

Excellent! Tantalising short of the big 300!

Do you mean the famous '6463' software update? That was to fix an over-sensitive knock sensor map, which caused flat spots around 2000rpm on MK4s. The BDB and MK5s had reduced compression (10.75 from 11.25) so that shouldn't be a problem, although Vince said he sees more MK5s pinking than MK4s! What you're describing is exactly what Heresites had and was a pig to drive smoothly around town. Vince said it's because the ECU delivers power based on driver demand (pedal position, steering angle, ABS signal, road speed, Haldex signal and all that jazz) and because the ECU can't 'see' any of that, it gets confused and messes with the power delivery. Vince can sort it though.

Does it pull savagely immediately and then cut the power, then puts it back on again? That's the problem Heresites had and it's the ECU removing torque because it's confused. I wouldn't go for a linear throttle map personally. Vince can make it smoother lower down though.

I wondered about that, but I thought it only became properly clear when injected into the crack under pressure, or some such? As others have said though, a clear resin seems like a good plan!

I could never get a definitive answer on it either. Maybe you found a secret 'feature' to turn it off Jim! :) I do know that it's function is tied in with the 'yellow' temp sender (now green / black I believe) in terms of operating temp, but it's always just run with the ignition in my experience, but it should shut off after 5 mins or so when the engine isn't running.

That's the thing, the VW dealer stuff has to be made to a certain quality. Aftermarket stuff doesn't, hence the huge difference in price. There is obviously a dealer mark-up because most garages make their profit that way. I was always happy to pay for dealer stuff to get a guaranteed perfect fit and long life span. Fine if you have the means I suppose, but I was fed up with GSF ****e failing very quickly. As for the whole rod, when I did one on my MK4 R32, it did look very similar to a VR6 one. Only difference being the MK4 hub is inverted, so the TRE bolts in underneath instead from the top (Bump steer reduction). Ideally you'd want a longer rod which could be cut down and run a die down it to extend the threads.....or something? Just thinking out loud.