Kevin Bacon

I could see it was still turning over, but each rev the chain was dropping slack between cam sprockets for a moment. It's like the rear camshaft is rolling forward a little, spring powered by the valve springs or something.

That happens if you crank it over without the tensioner bolt fitted, or if the tensioner bolt has failed and isn't pressurising.

I paid twice that for mine last March. Same age and condition. If it's genuine, someone's gonna get a bargain!

My alarm bells are:-

No MK4 R came with Recaros. A genuine owner would know that.

Advert too short. A car in that condition and mileage should have the advert to match.

Way too cheap. Cars like that fetch well over 6k.

So Kev, don't you think I'll need any copper spray?

I did use Permatex Copper "Spray-a-Gasket" on my VR6 turbo with a head spacer and it seemed OK. I've also used a metal gasket with no spray and it was also fine!

Personally I don't like using anything on gaskets, but if there's a need for it, so be it! I think you'll be fine without it to be honest.

Not sure about TFSI coils but R32 coils don't need screwing down and are very narrow to sit between intake runners. They just press onto a regular spark plug end. Might be better for your application?

Yeah, if you like "V71 Flap Positioning Motor" errors in VCDS ;)

You never get rid of Corrado problems when moving onto newer VAGs. You just get slightly different flavours of the same issues :)

The metal gaskets are fine but are intended for use on freshly machined surfaces, so preparation is the key here.

VR6 heads are prone to corrosion because of the old G10 coolant, or previous owners just not bothering with any anti-freeze at all. This can leave chuffing great pits in the head which the metal gasket won't like one bit.

If your head is pitted, clean it up, fill the pits with chemical metal and then get it skimmed. Q Bond is by far the best stuff for jobs like that - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Q-Bond-Superglue-Adhesive-Filling-Anything/dp/B003YI421I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389175835&sr=8-2&keywords=q+bond+adhesive

Clean the block as best you can and it will seal OK.

Only just read it as well. I'm glad you decked the retarded moron. I think I would have done a lot more to him and just said they were injuries he sustained in the accident.

Trailor trash like him and his gang of peanut headed facebook lickers who turned up to 'watch', are a cancer of the planet and should be wiped out.

Still, a new year, new car, sentence given to him and all that. I'm glad you and your family were able to come out of it relatively unscathed.

I can actually see merit in these monster Soft Roaders like Audi Q7s and Volvo XC90s now. High up and a lot of metal to fold up before it touches the occupants.

Yeah I was just thinking they look a bit strange with the rims mounted underneath the centre.

I was looking at getting some 18" LMs for my MK4 and yeah, sod that!! :lol:

Ahhh OK, it's the heater panel end you've got issues with. Should have known really being a late interior :lol:

Likewise, I just shoved a Passat one in instead, but liking the manual over-ride :)

Sorry, I should have asked more clearly, would the charger on its own work on a 24v or would the extra flow from the 24v head make this under powered?

It's fine for the 2.8 24V, but it's a tad small for the 3.2 imo. Having said that, people have and do use the V9 on R32s though :)

Oh lovely. Just the right time of year for heating woes :)

On mine it was caused by the cogged lever attached to the cable popping out of the heater box. It popped back in again OK, but it was quite a sloppy fit. I think I fixed it by shoving a bolt or something through the middle of the cog to spread the clip out further to stop it popping off. It seemed to do the trick and never did it again :)

I can see why VW specify a heavier duty sealant for the side covers on the VR6. The join between the upper and lower covers is prone to leaking and you need a good dollop of heavy duty stuff, applied in the right place, to stop it.

The white sump stuff is a latex blend. The excess sealant doesn't fall off and clog up oil pumps.

Don't apply loads! A nice even thin layer.

Ah, found it. Loctite 5900 flange sealant. Alternatively, as mentioned, Halfords sell Loctite 5910 which will work just as well.

The dealer supplied stuff comes in a syringe, so easy to apply.

They are supposed to be open. They never fully shut. To adjust it means digging out the resin around the adjustment screw but I really wouldn't recommend that. VW leave a gap for a reason, in case the valve fails. It's not the reason for stalling. That is usually always caused by the MAF if everything else is OK.

VW use the white stuff on the sump and a Loctite black silicon for the side covers. Can't remember the number though, I'll try and dig it out.

Sachs, Valeo, LUK are all part of the same group so you're getting the same thing just in different boxes anyway :)

But just make sure the pressure plate fingers are ground flat where the bearing makes contact before fitting it. Only dealer supplied LUK clutches had that done back in the day, but Valeo these days judder less than the other two :)

Hi Kev,

Basically mine has the charge pipe going into the straight part of the DV and then the L bend off the side vents back into the intake side of the charger.

Like this

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]76755[/ATTACH]

wicked diagram :)

That should be OK, so long as the dump goes back into the intake side, which it looks like it does.

if you're not getting any running problems (aside from wet MAFs), I wouldn't worry about it.

I loved my VRT mate and I don't regret the money I lost on it. It was 5 years of 7000 grins per min and the build was equally enjoyable. It was everything you want yours to be in terms of wasting other cars :)

Stick with the Corrado mate. Modern high performance German cars will obliterate your bank account and frustrate you with electrical gremlins. Old school simple engineering is best in the long run :)

Sounds like you have the stamina for this though, good man :)

I thought Rams had a 12V?

Happy to have the container in the boot, I'm sure I can cover it in leather or something. Lol

 

Just seeing Bobby's car/figures and yours and very impressive as they are means it's proven that those charge coolers work and if I can find second hand SP stuff I'd rather fit that first. If nothing comes about I either have to wait or change course.

 

I'd like to get round the 400 BHP mark but more importantly, my torque could be much better. I'm not overly happy with the light throttle loads. Seems a bit sharp without full load on the pedal when building speed. Could be a bit smoother/progressive. On full throttle load it's superb. So I'm thinking the engine needs better cooling as some days she fells really fast and others a bit tired.

 

Maybe it's this coil pack that's been causing a weaker spark. Will report back when it's changed later today.

Throttle response was awesome with the Schimmel intake and chargecooler. Zero boost drop too, which is more of a concern with Superchargers. Very low and stable intake temps too. Vince said it's the only chargecooler he's seen that actually works, which is high praise indeed.

The lack of bottom end torque is the nature of centrifugal chargers unfortunately. They work OK on R32s but not so good on 12Vs imo, but it's just a preference thing.

I've looked into my crystal ball Rams and I can see you going turbo :lol: You appear to be raising exactly the same concerns I did when I had a Supercharger :)

Is the ARB the right way up? You can fit them upside down on VR6s and the only clue is the situation you've got there :)

Ron, the 90 deg outlet should go back to the MAF. Straight part faces the charger, if that makes sense.

I'd be taking it up with the seller and asking for a bit of discount!

Schimmel cams have a bigger hex section for the spanner too, IIRC.

Those PWR coolers are nowhere near as good as Schimmel's, but you get what you pay for I suppose.

Have a look on the VR6OC Rams. VRT bits are always swapping hands on that forum.

Can't recommend those Schimmel bits enough though, but are you OK with having a 3 gallon tank in the boot? Chargecoolers have a lot of baggage!

Jesus! That carnage reminds me of one those Russian dash cam videos on YouTube. Britain is rapidly becoming like that for frequency of prangs now, especially in the over-crowded South East. Expect premiums to continue spiraling northwards.

Glad you're OK. As nice as the Corrado is, it is just a steel box and thank god it protected it's fleshy occupants as best it could.

Theatre, that describes the g60 experience perfectly although lately it's been more like drama what with my missing idle screw, appetite for breaking water hoses and developing a blowing exhaust.

 

I'd not give up my g60 for anything else..... Well maybe a g70!

 

Interesting about the smoothness, my mate has a 16v g60 golf and that is alot more peaky than my corrado. He does have nearly 100bhp more than me though so wonder if it's the nature of the beast the more tuned they become?

Oh there was a lot of that with the 2.0 G60 as well :) The forged pistons made the engine sound like a diesel from cold, the boost hoses kept blowing off (I think it was a stage 4 job!), the Pace chargecooler wasn't very good and it swallowed fuel something chronic. Bloody fast though. I think it was around 245hp IIRC.

By smoothness I meant as in coarseness felt through the floor etc. It wasn't peaky though, it had grunt everywhere and lots of it!

It was good to see what could be done with 2 old favourites. VR6 and 1.8T conversions back then were silly money.

I think tides will turn with 1.8T's, too much mess, don't suit the old bays and just as expensive to tune well!

I have similar feelings about R32s not really suiting old VWs and yeah, 1.8Ts can get expensive when you want more hp than the standard weenie turbo can provide!