Kevin Bacon

Another anti-facebook member here ..

Good man + 1 :)

I'll get them into Photobucket later this evening :thumbleft:

Good man :)

Even mentioning this to your insurance counts as a 'claim' to some insurers, even if neither party claimed, and they'll use it as a get out clause if you say "no" to "any claims in the last 5 years?". Honestly. It happened to a mate.

The whole idea of insurance is that you don't end up out of pocket should the worst happen. It's why we pay the premiums. But the way insurance is going these days, as you say, you're too scared to make a claim because they try and cream money off you at every angle.

Yep the honest workers of this world always suffer at the hands of corruption. I'm just waiting for the age to kick in where it doesn't bother me anymore, but if anything I am getting grumpier the older I get!!

Can't see the pic as I'm at work but VR6s do naturally tilt down a little bit at the gearbox end. I'll have a look later.

So we have a late bonnet & a VSR, therefore it can only be the aftermarket mounts causing this. I'm thinking they might be cheapy poly ones that aren't the right height in which case snipping them down a bit as suggested might be the only option, unless you want to replace them with proper mounts :)

Cheapy poly mounts just mirror the height of a new, standard mount, but Vibratechnics match the height of a standard mount which is compressed by the engine weight, so the engine always sits right with Vibras.

The trouble is, oil seals (crank mains mainly) tend to harden with age and a modern oil like that could literally p1ss past the seals as it's flow rate is very different to a 90s spec 10W/40.. Some folk think that is an old wives tale, but it's not.

Modern engines now have Teflon seals and have done away with old cork and rubber gaskets on sumps and engine covers in favour of machined surfaces with silicon.

Oh what a surprise, you have to have a facebook account to view them. I'd rather shove wasps up my backside than join Facebook.

Stick them on Photobucket or something :)

That is a very minor knock. No parts needed. I would probably get it on a 4 Wheel alignment though if the rear wheel got hit. You don't want to be driving around with a bent stub axle or damaged bearings. Those taper bearings aren't the strongest!

Yeah, that annoys me how insurance companies insist on you reporting the claim for 5 years. And points too. DVLA only care about them for 3 years, but insurance companies want to penalise you for them for 2 more years after they've come off your license!

After the energy companies have been regulated, next we need to sort the bloody insurance companies out. Themselves, their approved repairer scheme & the courtesy car (through Enterprise, Avis et al) is all a big swindle.

Take your excess for example. Say you have a £500 excess (common high value cars or rare ones like the Corrado). Did you know the same excess transfers to your rental car too? So if you damage that as well, you pay £500 twice. Absolute chunts. But of course, they can offer you an Excess protection policy for just £7.99 a day. What's cheaper? £7.99 x 10 days or £500? It's a no brainer. They royally bend you over a barrel.

Then we get to the flat rate repair scheme. Insurance companies pay their approved garage a flat rate to fix a car, say, £2000. If a car comes in needing £1000 or work, the garage 'makes' £1000. If a car comes in needing £4000 of work, they have to make up for that shortfall and that usually means fitting pattern parts instead of genuine, fixing bent things instead of replacing and them taking other assorted short cuts. There is even a clause in the policy if you look, stating: "We will fit parts that meet the original equipment standards, or repair them where necessary". So your car could come out of the shop with loads of GSF tat on it.

Protected bonus. Yeah, what ever. It's just a number to them. They still load the premium heavily before applying the bonus, so you still end up paying more regardless. A

And if your car group is involved in more accidents, statistically, you pay for other people's mistakes.

If someone hits you, you still pay more because your car had to be fixed.

It's all a big bloody con, but thank god for comparison sites making it easier for us to find the cheapest, but every one is on the make regardless. Except us, the paying customer, the great fleeced nation that is Britain.

If the interior lights slowly dim, then brighten, dim, brighten at idle, but stabilises goes when you rev the engine, that's the regulator on it's way out.

You can also spot that on the mulitmeter if the voltage fluctuates slightly. It should sit at a rock steady 14V or 13.8V or what ever. If it's shifting up and down constantly from 13.6 - 14. Mr Alty is dying.

Just had my R32 one done for £80. It was only that much because they have special slipper clutches in the pulley which can let go. Probably about £50 for a VR6 one. A rebuild consists of new bearings, new regulator / brushes and a new commutator (if worn). The rest of the Alternators is just a load of windings and a carcass at the end of the day, so rebuilding them is fine.

The Schrick definitely hit the bonnet but the VSR should not as it's not much bigger than the standard one, if at all? Was the VSR available to the Corrado? I know it was a VR6 option back in the day but was it just on the Golf? I can't imagine VW would fit something to the Corrado that would hit the bonnet!

Something is amiss here. What make are the mounts? I had Vibras and a Schrick on mine and it never hit the bonnet. I just had to clearance the slightest amount of metal off the support brace in the relevant area, but that was an official Schrick fix for the Corrado only.

Is the rear mount uprated as well?

Good stuff on the tyres, nice easy fix :)

You might want to consider the red powerflex dogbone kit (diesel) as it's a bit softer than the regular yellow & purple ones, which are too harsh imo.

Has the car got an induction kit or oiled filter on it? MAFs hate the oil but you can clean them easily enough with some electrical contact cleaner.

Yeah 17s look tiny on the MK4/A3 platform. 18s are spot on :)

Did you replace the hub? VW recommend changing the hubs when doing wheel bearings on some models, for this and other reasons. I can't remember if it applied to the VR6 but I replaced them when I did mine. I also used GKN CVs and put turbo torque through them for over 5 years with no problems what so ever, so try not to panic people :D

Oil fouled plugs is the most common reason for misfiring on ageing VR6s. Sometimes happens gradually, sometimes happens fairly quickly.

Stage 1s used to make 250hp back in the day. Stage 2 made 280hp.

Be careful with F'in tight and Holy schitt that's tight because it = Holy schitt I've just gone and f'cked my water pump, PAS pump and Alternator bearings.

You need more belt wrap. Always a weak spot with the VFE kits.

Jim, initial impressions are excellent! I love the interior (seats are fabulous!) and all the little extras such as puddle lights, heated door locks, airbags etc. Obviously doesn't look as good as a Rado, but looks good nevertheless. Feels much more solid than a Rado, and handles very well indeed. There is less steering feel than the Rado and it definitely feels a bit more mature, but not quite as fun. It's definitely quicker than the Rado- I'm not convinced it's standard. If it is, the performance is very impressive!

It's certainly a step up from a Corrado in the luxury department! :)

The feel thing can just be as simple as tyres. I had Michelin PS3s on my R32 when I got it and I couldn't understand why people bashed the MK4 platform for it's lack of feedback, but since changing to Eagle F1 Assymetric 2s, all of the feel has gone!

MK1s were all about sacrifice and hardship :lol:

Shyte wipers, shyte heater, dangerous brakes, heavy (but feelsome) steering and you could trust the rust to bust your something else they rhymes with 'ust' :D

Thank you all for positive comments.I have some pics for you.My specs. Garrett GT3076R, 550cc injectors,Aeromotive intank fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR,homemade exhaust,homemade intake manifold,DTA ecu,LC1 innovate O2 sensor, etc...

Lovely smooth curves with not too much torque low down to wreck the gearbox. Nicely done mate.

Only thing I'd do if it was mine is fit a GT35R to carry the torque past 6000rpm :)

Modern cars with variable assistance just make old cars inordinately feel heavy. So yeah, perception I'd say.

I've always preferred VW's light touch PAS.

Permatex "Spray a Gasket". Yeah I used that on my VR6 turbo to help with seal some shonky surfaces, but I would steer clear of it personally. Just get the mating faces as flat and smooth as possible.

Regarding cleaning the block face and stuff getting down the sides of the pistons, I always turn the crank a bit (90 degs IIRC) so that none of the pistons are at TDC, then either smear grease on the bores to catch debris, or tape the bores off just below the deck. Remember to put it back to TDC before fitting the head!

There really is no harm leaving the carbon on the piston crowns. It's been there for 1000s of miles and not done any harm, and will come back again anyway. The valves would benefit from having carbon removed, along with new guides, seals and lapping in. They are after all what keep the compression in the cylinder.

I think my favourite Arnie quote has to be:

Gun shop owner: "Hey, you can't do that!!!!" , Arnie: "WRUUUNG!"

Closely followed by "Are Yoouuu S-air-rah Cun-nn-orr?"

superb work, heres to the 567890 mark :)

you must have pulled over

There must be Corrados in America with that kind of mileage on them. The country where 200,000 is considered "low mileage"!

Why no to the head skimming? I assume because if you get it skimmed it would lower the compression slightly?

 

Has anyone on here fitted the 1.8T intake temprature sensor? I believe the VR6 one is prone to heavy heat soak and this is a good option to to help eliminate that.

Not applicable on the VR6 as the combustion chamber is in the piston crown. If you're going to use an MLS head gasket, then it absolutely needs skimming. It *must* be as smooth and clean as possible. MLS gaskets do not tolerate surface imperfections like the old fibre gaskets could.

Consider the Cosworth style open bead sensor instead as I think it has the same thread as the VR6 one, so will screw into the intake. The 1.8T sensor is completely different and will requiring some machining work.

Personally I would not touch the engine internals at all unless it's being rebuilt. Stuff can easily get down the sides of the pistons and set up home in the ring lands, ready to scuff the bores when you start it up.

Wonder wheels will slowly eat raw aluminium if you leave it for to long.

Does it not eat, or weaken, valve stem seals?

Just put a new one in mine the other day.

Yeah I saw the Avatar and knew the scene immediately :D One of my fave movies of all time.

"So you're telling me Hopper was killed by a f'cking Lizard?" :)