Kevin Bacon

When is the forum going to kick the stuck "VR6 chains" record? There is no 'kit' unless you buy from America. Most people just take the parts list from the wiki to the dealer.

My ex was 5ft 1" and could drive the Corrado no probs!

This is a Corrado, so didn't get the flimsy 020 gearbox ;)

Even the admin fee is unfair. £25 for moving a mouse around for 30 seconds? Thieving basts.

Are you sound proofing for audio reasons or just trying to make the car quieter?

I dynamatted mine years ago (including the roof to stop that vibrating from the bass) and it made little difference to overal refinement, but it did work well on thinner panels near speakers to stop them flapping about.

To make the car quieter, I recommend this fire and water resistant foam. http://www.efoam.co.uk/fireseal-foam.php

I used the 12mm thick stuff and stuck it to every panel on my MK4 over the summer and it made a huge difference :)

Sounds like they're trying it on, but as above, they've always got an excuse to justify it. "Cost of repair", "frequency of claims", blah blah. Usual insurance horse schitt.

I drove Pat McCrotch's standard VR with every single bush, joint, bearing, damper and spring replaced with new standard parts and it was a damn good steer. The ride height obviously sucked but there was just something about a totally stock one that feels so much better than a lowered one. Needed 100 more hp though :)

Sounds like it's just tired.

It's worth checking with the dealers as sometimes they have engines they're trying to get rid of. It's also sometimes sold as new old stock on ebay. Someone on here got a brand new block (with pistons and crank etc) that way a while back for little money.

I would try a 24V first before committing yourself as you might not like the power delivery. It's completely different to a 12V!

There is a product called 'k -seal ' which is quite good & doesn't clog everything up. Usually available from motor factors

Yeah the RAC carry that in their vans. I've used it in my Rover 25 (K series and K - seal, a coincidence? lol) as it had a very slight weep from the head gasket (non pressure side). It went from using a litre of water a week to a litre every 6 months, so yeah, it works :)

Quickest way to tell if this kind of chemical has clogged the coolant system is try the heater. If it's cold, it's blocked.

VR6s do rattle a bit when cold. Bores 1 & 6 ovalise before the other 4 do and it's them that make the most noise.

So have you put it all back together then?

Rebuilding a VR6 doesn't make economical sense anymore, imo. Mahle are a pain in the neck for getting pistons from, especially in 82.5mm over bore size. It can take 1 week, or it might take 9 weeks, or it might take 4 months. And it's going to be well over £1000 in pistons, bearings, chain gear and gaskets etc before the machine shop even see it.

I'd rather put a low mileage engine in than rebuild one.

Cool, cheers for that Kev.

 

Kev have you got the MK4 Golf then R32 ??

Or have you put a R32 lump in your Corrado ??

 

If so whats the difference in power and handling,

between the two.

I have indeed sir and prior to that I had an R32 engine in my Corrado. That's currently owned by a member on here :)

I mentioned before in a similar discussion that I felt the MK4 R32 handled better than my Corrado, but that didn't go down to well :lol:

So I'll have a change of tact and say the MK4 R32 is far more effortless to hustle along a B road quickly. How's that for diplomacy? :D

In terms of performance between the two, surprisingly they feel about the same to me. I know that sounds odd given the Corrado's 250Kg weight advantage, but to me at least, they feel evenly matched.

What I would say is my Corrado handled better than MK5 R32. They really do feel their weight when you throw into a corner. The MK4 is much stiffer sprung.

What about the VR6 2.8 / 2.9 24v engine or head are they any good on power,

I'm only asking as I've never driven one.

Very strong torque between 2500-3000rpm, but then feels kind of flat, then gets better again at 4000rpm upwards. 5000 - 7000rpm is very strong on the R32.

Too much electronic interference (as in sticking it's beak in) on that engine though. It could be a lot better with a less intrusive ECU.

Links look OK to me.

Hamsters and foot porn you say? :norty:

10 points for spotting the deliberate mistake. Should be the pressure side :)

It's not quite open ended though as it fills up the swirl pot in the pump housing first.

/\ Yeah exactly! BMW forums have exactly the same debate with the 335d vs M3. Diesel is great for pulling a couple of car lengths on someone caught napping in the wrong gear / rpm, but if the M3 driver and 335d driver were both alert and Mr M3 was in the right gear and uses the full rev range, it would waste the 335d every time :)

I've yet to drive a diesel that has a broad enough power band to worry a well driven petrol of the same hp.

But diesel is fun in a point and squirt way. Just a shame the fun ends just as it gets started. Very frustrating!!

Get a fuel pressure gauge, tee it into the return line, then make sure you are seeing 4 bar when you turn the motor over.

Exactly. That's what I've started saying to people who keep moaning about TDIs making a fool of them. If you can't keep with a TDI, you're in the wrong gear!

Yep, it would I'm afraid.

Yeah reboring a 2.8 is an option. The pistons will come up like new if left in an automotive acid bath for a day. Try and find machine shop that does the factory correct honing though, or it could end up still being an oil burner! In other words, I wouldn't use a flex-hone or anything like that.

Probably a good idea to use new piston rings and replace all the bearings and seals whilst you're there.

Nope.

The VR6 is lazy below 4000rpm as well, so in that respect it's just like a valver!

There's a big round earth block up by the fuseboard where a load of brown & Brown / white earths connect to. Trace these back along the floor and through the door to make sure none of them are snipped or damaged etc.

The windows are supplied power via a timer when you take the ignition key out. Think it's about 5 minutes. It allows you to roll the windows up without having to put the ignition back on if you get out of the car and forget to roll them up. The full closure over-rides that timer if it expires. Either there is a wiring fault (usually related to those grounds) or an internal fault with the controller.

Good work!

I guess if it was permanent, sales of plastidip would soon dry up :)

I actually did my entire car a few weeks ago. Very pleased with the results for only paying $300 and doing it myself for the first time. I'm only using it as temporary paint until I save up for an intensive respray to the factory green. Don't expect it to last longer than a year or two and be VERY careful with gas, It takes it off almost instantly!!!! Here's going from green to white:

 

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Good thing is the Wishbone angles and suspension geometry is all still at usable angles and haven't put the roll center through the floor.

I thought I was alone in giving a toss about stuff like that, but thankfully I'm not! Welcome sir :)

Yeah, you gotta have good wood :) Damp wood blackens the glass door quicker!

I always start the fire with a layer of coal anyway, so if the wood is slightly damp, it'll still burn just fine.

I went with a green top tint, which was great. Never used the sun visors after that.