Kevin Bacon

Can't give you any fitting advice as you need to get someone in to assess your room size and chimey condition (need to drop a lined flue down it), but we had one of these and they're faaaarrrrkun good stoves - http://jotul.com/uk/products/wood-stoves/Jotul-F-373

It's usually the LHD downpipes that don't work on RHD cars, but sometimes all that's needed is some minor tweaking with the welder.

I would avoid the really cheap kits. Things that cheap generally are for a reason!

The standard mounts aren't a bad design per se, just a bit soft. Some people fill the holes with welding rods or bolts, or you can buy various different shures of poly and rubber in liquid form, and fill the holes with that. That's quite popular on voided bush engine mounts such as the MK4/MK5.

I've read that people use the mk2 gtd gearbox mount as its a bit more durable-Anyone have ant experience?

I think that was an old GSF thing mate but as far as VW are concerned, all cars fitted with the 02A gearbox get the same mount. It's about £60 now. GSF's "MK2 diesel" mount is utter garbage and lasts about 5 minutes. The OEM doesn't last that long either when you're putting more power down, so the only real choice we have is Vibratechnics, which does increase vibration and noise sadly. All uprated box mounts do.

Why not remove the trims yourself (as they are the bits they always break), then give it to the insurance place. It's just a case of cutting the screen out and gluing a new one in, which shouldn't be rocket science to them. The refit the delicates yourself back at home.

Bear in mind they don't replace the outer seal as standard. Technically it's sold as a separate part by VW and most places refit the old one successfully, but I've also seen complete abortions of a job where the seal sits a cm proud of the car, so you might want to budget for a new seal as well.

I think that's a reasonable price if it's as clean as the pictures portray, but my god, what a lazy arse advert.

If I was in the market for one, I'd give that one a miss in favour of one where the seller made more of an effort.

The days of the car selling itself are long gone.

Absolutely and thanks for bringing it to our attention! It's definitely a nice looking kit and the self lubing is a real plus point imo. As are the quieter running and lower intake temps compared to other kits, which is important when running stock compression.

The turbo kits sound intriguing :)

Is the broken bit ally? I think VF make them from billet ally, which should be fine to weld. I wouldn't weld cast ally as it's usually full of too many impurities and doesn't always weld that well.

Went for the yellow in the end- had one on the vRS and it was fine. The key is to only tighten the bolt through the bush to 12lbs. Barely any vibration at all.

Good info, cheers Andy. I defo tightened mine more than 12lbs!

Just as a reminder as it's been discussed many times, the front mount is isolated by 2 rubber bushes at each end of the cross member, but the rear and transmission mounts aren't, so it's those two that transmit the most noise and vibes into the cabin, especially the gearbox one!

Perhaps I was a tad negative, I'm sure this will appeal to others but possibly some different

options might help as it's a lot to spend for (and I say it loosely) only 240bhp. If for an extra few hundred £s you can get to near 300bhp then seems a lot better bang for buck. What would the install pictured cost for eg with the charge cooler?

 

And I meant I thought the r32 would yield more than a 50bhp gain for such a large cost. But I am tight :)

 

Any yes I had to help fabricate a lot of my kit which was a nightmare at times but I enjoyed this and it helped me understand the process.

The appeal will be to folk who want a simple bolt on / bolt off install. It doesn't get much simpler than this :)

I remember the days of having to whack a steel stake into the sump of my VR6 for the VF Engineering kit's oil return, and I was never really happy with a low pressure oil return hitting a wall of oil either!

55hp doesn't sound much of a hike for the R32, and you're right, it isn't :) All things being equal, 1 bar of boost should endow the R32 with up to 500hp if the compressor size and mapping are correct. 250 / 15 = 16.6hp per psi, therefore 6psi should give you 100hp.

In reality, it's not quite as neat and tidy as that. If using a suitably sized turbo, 6psi would certainly bag you that 100hp. Supers sap some of the power they make unfortunately and will never be as efficient as a turbo. Also, the R32 also has 11.3:1 compression, so can't run much timing with boost. They run very low timing as standard and still pink!

RUF also appear to use the same compressor for the 2.8 and 3.2 litre. The R32 needs a bigger one really. It's not as simple as throwing a smaller pulley on it. The compressor wheel size is still the limiting factor, as was so clearly demonstrated by the Vortech V9 kits 6-7 years ago.

IMO and I'm not bashing OCD here as it's not their own kit, but S/C kits shouldn't cost £5K plus anymore. You could give your car to Stealth Racing and come away with 360hp from 9psi of his royal turboness for not a lot more and of course, you have another 140hp or so of potential sitting there waiting to be unleashed. Not so easy extracting more power from S/Cs.

As I say, it boils down to what folk want. A simple bolt on giving 55hp, which is better value than NA tuning (certainly on the R32), or the complication and heat management issues of turbos. Horses for courses really :)

Personally, I think I'd rather spend £5000+ on a 500hp electric motor and some batteries :)

If you can't catch a finger nail in those scores, I wouldn't worry about it.

If you don't like vibration in the cabin, steer clear of poly mounts. Vibras are the best compromise.

Cheers Bill, I managed to get to the thread in the end.

That certainly is a tasty spec! I looked up the LOBA bits and bobs and this guy has certainly invested heavily in it.

Then I read further down and saw: "A couple of minor scratches, but nothing 10mins with a polisher wouldn't sort". Why do people do that? He's asking £15K for it and can't be arsed to sort out a minor blemish for the sale?

Google "RUF Kompressor R32". Loads of info. Not to be confused with the RUF Porsche tuners.

It is a sealed unit. Self lubricated. No oil feed or return required, which makes things a lot easier and more reliable. It looks like the old Z-Engineering charger to me. Maybe RUF bought the designs and have modernised it a bit. The old Zeds used to work really well on the VR6.

I take it this is a centrifugal charger, so the quoted PSI won't be seen until the redline?

Grrr, Ed38 and needing an account to view a post. Grrr.

What's the specs? Big turbo/s, obviously, but the other techie bits I'd be interested to read about.

240 amp! That would be the size of a basketball :D

Even the 120 amp barely fits the bracket, or did I have to trim mine? Hmmm, can't remember, but play it safe with a 90A.

Nothing wrong with Alt rebuilds. They are literally just a bunch of windings, a couple of bearings and a regulator / brush pack.

Shouldn't cost much more than £50 to rebuild a VR6 one.

Crank sensor. People shy away from suggesting that on here because they're expensive, but they have a finite life span like everything else and it takes out both the fuel and the spark.

But for the benefit of the doubt:-

To confirm ignition switch: Wiggle the key about whilst cranking.

To confirm fuel pump: Bridge the fuel pump relay on the fuse board (numbered 167) to run the pump permanently. Stick your ear down by the offside rear wheel, or in the boot under the carpet, you will hear it. No noise = no pump.

To confirm fuel pump relay: As above, but it starts when bridged.

To confirm coilpack: I've never seen one so bad it stops the engine starting. As mentioned alreadym It's dead anyway in the absence of a crank signal, as is the fuel pump relay.

There are other things you can check, but in my experience, a total non-start and then random successful starts is 9 times in 10 a dying crank sensor.

Are they giving you £1800 as a payout, or they want £1800 from you to buy it as salvage?

As above, your premium will go up somewhere along the line but it can be offset by shopping around for a cheaper deal.

Just fixed it in works car park, was the end of the hose had split (samco again), although think i may have overtightened the jubilee clip and that split the hose.

There's your problem. Always use the OE constant torque clamps, even on silicon. Jubilees are hopeless.

How often are you planning on reusing them? The main advantage of ARPs is they're stronger than the OEM bolts in boost applications. If you're not using boost, stick to the standard bolts.

They should be 225/45/17 on the A3 Andy. Could be why they looked too small?

I think JOMs are at the bottom end of the market, so the FKs should give you an improvement.

If you're not worried about kissing the weeds, you could go back to normal struts with lowering springs? Fit and forget!

Unfortunately with Coilovers, you do tend to get what you pay for.

Like this? :lol:

 

:pukeright:

That would certainly wake you up in the mornings! Reminds me of Trebor spearmints from the 80s!

RE: the Koenigs. I'd dye them black personally. Can't go wrong with black. Browns and beiges can just look dirty and scruffy imo.

The yellow temp sender is responsible for triggering the aux pump. Do you still have the original OBD1 fan controller box, or did you fit the Golf one?

What happens if you turn the ignition onto stage 2, then off again on yours? The pump should be on all the time the ignition is on and then run for 5 minutes, or thereabouts, when switched off, even if cold.

I think it's pins 1 & 4 of the yellow sender that switch it.

If it's all wired up OK and the sensor is good, it could be the fan controller as that has the after run timer built into it. I've got a spare controller if you need it.

Is the digger your new project? Are you turboing it? :)

Yeah, perishables will always be deliberately perishable to make money on parts, but anything to do with the engine internals these days is much tighter controlled!