andy

What are you going for, are you not woried that lower will mean harsher?

I can only really comment on a big difference in bearing quality. I've had a pair of GSF wheel bearings wear out in less than a year, the races were heavily pitted. They were half as much as VW ones but for the hassle involved and the fact that I then had to then replace them with VW parts anyway, I wouldn't be in any hurry to use GSF parts for things like bearings/bushes again.

I agree with the bit about a greater police presence. We all see dreadful driving every day, I'm all for handing out penalty points for bad driving, just one or two at a time for things like pulling out on someone, driving in the centre lane for no reason. It would soon increase the driving standard imo. Weed out the people who drive consistently badly.

I've got H & Rs and the lowest three coils are laying on top of each other on them, they always have done. I queried this some time ago but was told it was normal.

Mines not sounding Chavvy to be honest. It rumbles at idle, and makes a nice noise, its popping and crackling like good-un, its just way too loud. I could live with it on a sunday car, but I do 400 miles a week in it. Mainly at 70ish!

Simple - just do away with the forum concept. Have a group of learned members, or TeamGuru if you will, who answers any given questions.

 

1) Why is my door handle broken?

2) Which is better, the VR6 or the G60?

3) Which is the best cheese to use in a lasagne?

 

Email comes back:

 

1) Because VW designed it from breadsticks and spit

2) The VR of course ;)

3) A mixture of cheddar, mozzarella and Swiss cheese

One more if you don't mind!

4) Whats the best exhaust for a VR!

The only reason I'd skim a head (and I have had a few done) is if the surface of the head is pitted, preventing a good seal with the head gasket. Its a job that some people do while changing a gasket, to get the mating surfaces as perfect as possible. Mileage is no reason at all to be thinking of doing this.

 

thats what i thought when told this, if there's no problem then no need to fix it.

 

the guy was saying its more of a precaution, but isn't there a limit to the amount of times a head can be skimmed?

Not so much how many times, but how much is taken off in total. I've had mine done, cant remember if it was 2 or 4 thousands of an inch. Not much at all, just resurfacing really. You'll alter the compression ratio too much if you take too much off.

The only reason I'd skim a head (and I have had a few done) is if the surface of the head is pitted, preventing a good seal with the head gasket. Its a job that some people do while changing a gasket, to get the mating surfaces as perfect as possible. Mileage is no reason at all to be thinking of doing this.

I fitted it myself, its not leaking or knocking. Its just way louder than I expected. I didn't even bother with the sports cat I've got for it. Its fine on wide throttle, virtually silent in the car at 80mph, just very resonant at some speeds.

Just fitted a Miltek cat-back system to my VR6 and I can't believe how noisy it is. Its a loud rumble at idle, really drones at 70mph. ( I mean headache inducing). It scares small animals at various points between 2k and 3k rpm. Surely this isn't normal is it? I thought Milteks were supposed to be silky smooth and only just louder than stock. Its popping a lot too. Any ideas people?

Top info there, going to check mine asap.

The late mechanism has an indentation to clear the larger motor assembly, and the adjuster screws/washers for the roof panel are attached to the mechanism, but that's it.

 

So a late roof will work fine in an early car using the early motor/loom/switch, but you can't use an early roof in a late car without changing to the earlier motor and switch.

 

Simple... :)

Absolutely bang on. I found this out the hard way.

I'd like to answer your question mate but it doesn't make any sense. If it helps, most of the engine variants use hydraulic tappets.

I think VW do both types, I haven't plucked up the courage to ask how much yet though!

http://www.funkster.org/

Go to the cars section then water pump repacement. Its very straightforward. I did mine without any guide, just remove a couple of mounts and jack the engine slightly. Its not stupidly tight/awkward. Good luck. 8)

Nice choice, I do like L reg Storm Grey VR6s 8)

They normally go for a tenner or so, very easy to come by. To be honest the motors are very tough. Just because you can wind it by hand doesn't mean the motor is faulty. It most likely means your mechanism is worn and beyond the scope of the motor torque. I hope it is just the motor but be prepared for worse!

I average 30mpg, car gets spanked regularly too. 35 miles each way to work, sat at 80 to 90 I see 33 or 34 mpg. Pretty good really.

when u mean o2 sensor is this the co2 one; cat sensor?

Yes, O2, lambda or cat sensor. Same thing afaik.

You need to interogate the braking system as well as the engine to find out the abs problem.

The engine speed sensor code (iirc) you don't need to worry about. Its just because the engine is not running when tested.

The other fault, mixture adaptation could be several things I think. I have that fault at the moment as well as a fault on the O2 sensor. I'm hoping a new O2 sensor will cure both...

Dumb question i know but what is a slider pin ??

Probably not the official name, but its the pins that screw into the carrier that the caliper slides on (when brakes applied and as the pads wear).

Thanks, typical VW! Anyone know a part no?

Can someone confirm how many slider pins you get on 288mm brake setups, the type I have in front of me have 2 per carrier (or should have!) I've just spoken to VW and they think there should only be one per side. Anyone got a picture of the usual 288mm setup, ie carrier and/or carrier?

Think theres a couple of micro switches behind the outer door handles cos you can take the windows up or down by locking/unlocking the drivers door.

They defo dont have anything to back the window off when theres something in the way(i know ive had my fingers trapped :bad-words: :crazyeyes: )

Yes there are microswitches on the door handle but they are to detect locking/unlocking, to then trigger the central locking/full closure system. The windows should have anti-pinch, acording to the manual, and I've seen them do it. Perhaps the one you had your fingers in was defective in that respect...

Having fun and games repairing the windows on my sisters golf. What i'm curious of is how does the motor distinguish between reaching the end of its travel and the anti-pinch feature it has. There is no limit switching in the motor or mechanism so how does the electronic control module know whether the window is fully open/closed, or whether someone had stuck their head in the mechanism. Sometimes this window will reach fully closed and then back off because it thinks theres a pinch.