Jump to content

andy

Members
  • Content Count

    1,529
  • Joined

Posts posted by andy


  1. There's probably a minimum number of letters to search on, try using better key words.

    Yes, I think you are right, 'Quantum Oil' returns loads of hits. Now there's the problem that I can't see my own advert in the classifieds section, its there under, my classifieds, but doesn't appear when I search in the 'Corrado VR6' for sale section. I have no confidence that anyone can actually see the advert. Most Frustrating!


  2. Always test the bulb before re-assembly......, hindsights a wonderful thing! My screws were rusted similarly last week when I had mine out, the bigger problem was the fact that the reflector was so rotten there wasn't enough metal left to mount the bulb! Doh! Can't say I've ever used them anyway!


  3. I've fitted new rollers and mine still rattle quite badly, I need to get it apart and have a look, there are other factors apparently. Isn't there a weld that can break somewhere (only something I heard on here recently) not investigated it yet.


  4. It won't make the world of difference in my opinion. Yes springs will sag slightly with age/use but not by a great deal. New springs will cause the car to ride slightly higher than old springs will. New shocks with old springs are fine if the springs look ok (not much rust) and you have no reason to think they are defective.

    As for how the two interact, the firmness of the spring will determine how far the strut compresses/extends as a result of a given force applied to it. A firm spring will not change its length much for a given force. A weak spring will bottom out too easily. The type of shock will determine how much that compression/extension is resisted (damped), i.e. weak dampers will tend to allow the spring to do what it wants to do, firm dampers will resist that movement much more and damp any oscillations in the springs movements much more effectively. In a car ideally you want critical damping, ie no more or less than one bounce after a given deformation. (ideal world).


  5. In my (extensive!) history of corrado sunroofs.....I would say its highly unlikely to be a tired motor. The motors are very tough, (they are geared up for loads of torque). Its obviously worth a try for the cost of a motor but be prepared for possibly more work. The mechanisms are crap and the motors are very good. As rob says make sure you synchronise the motor and mechanism properly, you will be wasting your time otherwise and putting collosal strain on everthing.


  6. Incidentally I've just fitted the new one, the car is now running 10 to 15 degrees cooler, barely moved above 85, regardless of driving style! I guess the old one had seen better days, 2 leaks didn't help!


  7. Are you replacing the switch? If so, by far the easiest way is to grab the switch with pliers/waterpump pliers and 'persuade' said pliers with a hammer. The screw is a bitch to get to whilst the switch is in position. It might take a few attempts to get hold of the switch and tap it out but you can get to the screw easily then. Don't worry if you destroy the switch in the process, some people fit the new switch back in with a cable tie round the whole assembly rather than the screw. I have both, somehow the screw is easier to get into the new switches.


  8. Yes everything was fine in the end, after re-torquing them they have been perfect, think I was just over analysing things. Looking in the Bentley book and seeing I'd used the wrong figure was a bit alarming initially (from a cost point of view) but no harm appears to have been done!


  9. See if that well known company really does buy any car?

     

    They'll buy it alright, if you don't mind accepting a tenner for it Pete!

    They offered me £50 for the audi I sold for £700+....t0ssers!


  10. Anyone had one? Mine is rattling like a good-un. If I put it up and wobble it, there's loads of play between the plastic 'risers' that support the spoiler and the surrounds. Is anything replaceable?


  11. I would definately do it while you have access. As much as I think the whole chain thing is overblown on VR6s, I would always do it while I had the chance. Mine is on 150k on the original (quiet) chains and I haven't felt the need to pull it apart. However if the clutch started acting up I'd do it all for piece of mind.


  12. i used the VW kits on my front 288mm breaks and they work fine and have done for quite some time now.

     

    i'm not sure they came with new bleed nipples though

     

    Same here, no problems at all, first ones I've done, work perfectly and peace of mind. Mine never came with nipples.

×
×
  • Create New...