andy

Hmmm interesting, 20% does sound about nice. I might be having a word with Mr Dukest then. Bizzare that this info is so hard to come by!

PI have come back and said (with no rates, grrrr) they are 20% up on stiffness over standard. Anyone know what rate standard springs are, or as a percentage how much the H and Rs are above standard?

Interesting reading.

http://ca.jalopnik.com/5760248/how-ferrari-spins

I always use TPS, Portsmouth Branch, the buggers will not give me a discount though.

No worries about the hijack! I have emailed PI about the spring rates. Watch this space. If they're significantly softer than H and Rs I might well be up for a set.

I had Koni Yellows and Eibachs on a Mk3 VR, dreadful! I don't suppose the rates are that different though? Eibachs are German 'Fast' road springs aren't they?

Any recomendations for lower rate springs?

It's not just about the springs though. The better the dampers you fit, the better the ride and handling will be.

Indeed, cheers Kev. I'm not sure whether my biggest problem is the springs or the preset bump damping of the Konis.

I've got them fitted to the car at the moment. I've always found my suspension too harsh for the roads where I live. I've done a huge ammount of work to the car recently to improve the ride/rattles but its fundamentally still too hard for me. I've replaced every joint, bearing, mount, bush on the front end, and two brand new Koni Yellow shocks. I've had the dash out and de rattled everything under there. Its better but not really what I had hoped for. It could be the shocks I suppose. I've read recommendations on spring rates (from Kevhaywire) and wanted to know how the H and Rs compare. Someone must know where to find out?

Does anyone know what rate they are, the green ones, progressive type as fitted to a VR6.

He did say centre console, not the whole dash. Its much easier.

I can't see any of my sent messages, it says 3 have been sent, but I can't see any of them. In fact it says "contains 3 messages" and "empty" at the same time, or words to that effect.

the headlight only has a single main beam feed, the main beam element on the H4 and the spot bulb is fed internally in the light unit from the same wire :)

Exactly, it wouldn't be a simple job! Or a worthwhile job!

Oh and I was being a pillock. Checked the lights in my lunch break and the 4 lamps do go on with the full beam (car running), it's just that the H4 high beam is not as bright as the H7, or what ever the bulb in the spot lamp is, LoL!

I'm glad you said this, I've been doing my head in trying to figure out why on earth, or even how on earth you'd have no high beam on the H4s on main beam. I've just checked my own, its either 2 dipped beams or 2 main beams with 2 driving lamps. Thats just my own home made 2 relay set up.

I'd modify the loom at the relays, whichever signal wire triggers your driving lamps can also be used to trigger the relay that powers your high beam on the H4. I have only 2 relays so its fairly straightforward. What do each of your 4 relays do?

Let me get this right, its been posted to me 3 times now but I still haven't got it, nor has Dude_VW.

This is ridiculous. Where has the option to email people direct gone with the new forum upgrade? I can only PM.

Still nothing......

Don't have time to read the whole 7 pages now but Private Messages aren't working. I can't do anything, its telling me I have overfilled folders that I have never seen before, I empty these folders of nothing and it still says I can't send anything because they are full.

Anyone that does not recieve what they ordered by saturdays delivery - for the love of god PM me please!

 

I do not want anyone going without!

You have PM...

I would never buy a samco hose because I wanted something stronger than the original. They just look nice. The original fit VW hoses are bombproof. I've heard a few cases od samcos failing.

I think Kevhaywire has done this, I read a post about it once, might be worth a pm if the search isn't working correctly.

If its just the starter thats not firing, usually the case, just run a lead down from the battery +ve terminal to the solenoid connection on the starter motor. ie fit a female spade connector on a length of wire, fit that spade onto the soleniod connection and just hold the other end on 12v to fire the starter. Thats what the AA man did to mine the other week, I drove rouind like that for a couple of days. Obviously you'll still need the ignition switch in the normal running position.

Do you have steering wheel cowlings, I only really need the upper bit. Also do you have the under-dash plastics, driver side and (including fusebox cover)?

Still waiting :censored:

Me too :)

There are 2 sets being sold on this forum around the £40 mark at the moment.

One of my photos is in it, I'm not happy about its use in the wider community without my permission.

Its doubly annoying seeing I've paid for a calendar and never seen it.

I will be taking this further.

My colleague has a Nissan GTR, been in it several times, its absolutley epic. There aren't really many quicker real-world cars out there in my book. He describes it as weapons grade, I have to agree.