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andy

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Posts posted by andy


  1. As already said, could do it much cheaper as a home mechanic, however I wouldn't say that was expensive to get someone else to do it. I would put money on Toyota charging double that. If you think VW parts are expensive, have a look at Jap stuff!


  2. You should be able to et a 2nd hand one or even an aftermarket one for a fraction of that. I wouldn't go near VW for a part like that. My 20V A4 audi daily had a new cat for the last MOT, it was £100 fitted, brand new. Obvioulsy not an audi part!


  3. There's more to it than that Jim. Why would they rebuild a PC because I was visiting a website? They did say something had been downloaded from this site that was now beaconing it. I should have said that in my original post. I've not conciously downloaded anything. Something has come in the back door whilst on here, was the jist of the converstation. I'm curious really, they told me to watch what websites I visit, their policy for non-work-related sites is pretty flexible to be honest, ie its fine, just don't take the p1ss!


  4. Less than 2 months into a new job, i get a call from IT security......

    Your laptop needs rebuilding, due to it beaconing a non-work-related website..........Its "the-corrado.net" says the voice. I wanted the ground to open up!

     

    How has this come about? I'm not green on networking for a minute but thought I should mention it and see if anyone has any further explanation on the subject.


  5. That's all wrong I'm afraid - from the VAG workshop manual...

     

    Remove any paint residue, bonding agent residue and or corrosion on threads/splines of the outer joint.

     

    Fit drive shaft.

     

    Guide outer joint into wheel hub splines as far as possible.

     

    Fit 12 point nut and pull outer joint into the wheel hub until the outer joint is in position.

     

    Connect ball joint to wishbone (35nm, bolts on old marks)

     

    Fit inner joint and tighten bolts to 45nm.

     

    Coat surface of twelve point nut with oil and screw on as far as possible.

     

    Lower vehicle, but ensure wheels do not touch the ground – if they do bearing could be damaged.

     

    Apply brakes.

     

    Tighten 12 point nut to 200Nm and then loosen one turn.

     

    Pre tighten 12 point nut to 50nm.

     

    Mark one of the 12 points on the nut with a line at its peak.

     

    Mark a second line on the next adjacent twelve (in a doing up direction obviously) on the wheel hub.

     

    Distance between the two marks = 30 degrees.

     

    Align both marks.

     

    Most of that is what I did, it does make me doubt the value of the bentley manual, all it gives is a torque figure, which apparently is vastly different from VWs.

     

    Another thing, how exactly do you lower the vehicle, without the wheels touching the ground. I can only assume by 'lower' they mean the wheel is nearer its normal operating position, i.e car lower relative to hub centre. I suppose that means placing blocks under the wishbone/lower ball joint and lowering the rest of the car. Can't say I ever done it like that!


  6. An update on this, I slackend everything and retorqued to the correct figure and everything seems fine. Funnily enough the torque figure I used last time was very similar to the the correct figure. First time round I didn't have a torque wrench that went high enough (for 225Nm), I did it as tight as my existing wrench would go (approx 160Nm) with the intention of coming back to it with a suitable larger torque wrench. On retorquing them last weekend, 90Nm plus 1/8 turn it felt very similar in overall tension to what I originally set it too. So in summary I probably wasn't too far off, its always difficult with angle-tightening to know what kind of torque you're actually applying. They all run uber smooth now and I'll check them again before long.


  7. Would be really good to see pics of this :)

     

    No pics yet but I've had a look. I seem to remember the bolt would have fitted across where the big spring is in the adjustment mechanism on the lower left hand side. You are effectively just clamping the hinge into a fixed position. I'm not sure if you need to remove the spring, probably though.


  8. I'd check your wheelbearings. Jack each corner up in turn and grap the wheel at quarter to three and waggle, also half-twelve. See if you have any excessive play or knocking. There should be nothing at the front and virtually nothing at the rear.


  9. My mates car (Corrado VR6) failed the mot on this, and the play was no where near a cm. We took the cowlings off and put a bolt across between two points, each side of the 2 moving parts. Obviously there was no available adjustment then, we had to set it where he wanted it and fasten the nut/bolt. It was so simple and really effective. Really improved the steering feel in much the same way as a fixed column would, but took about 10 mins and cost about 10p.

     

    I'll have a look on mine later to see if I can see the points we used, I seem to remember there were suitable holes already there.


  10. Yes. However I seem to have used the figure for non-vr6 models which is 225 nm. I fitted new bearings a couple of months back, I read the figure for non-vr6 models in error. I've been driving round for 1000 miles on severely overtorqued bearings. I've just checked them today (as part of something else) and the drivers side was loose (properly loose) Nut was hand tight, loads of play. It might explain the awful ride quality I have been experiencing?

    The passenger side one has no play and feels good, neither bearing has made any noise or got hot. I'm wondering the best way forward.


  11. Acshully research shows that lower speed limits increase the throughput of the road, though "maximum flow rate" might be read in various different ways. You, personally, may not get there any quicker, but people drive more closely together, at more even speeds and the overall throughput of the road increases at 50mph compared to 70mph. It gets worse as you go higher. Essentially any technique that puts more cars in the same piece of road improves throughput, no matter how fast those cars are going. The ultimate would be three lanes of cars doing 100 mph inches from each other's bumpers. Never going to happen if you allow humans to drive, we're all too pathetic to cope with that.

     

    Why do you think they use variable speed limits on many motorways during busy times? Slow *everyone* down, and the road is less likely to hit standstill and you'll get more cars through. Thimpleth!

     

    Dr, you have 100 per cent re-iterated the point I had made. Exactly!


  12. Not sure if it's right, but my maths instinct tells me that a three lane motorway with a 50mph speed limit would have a lower capacity in terms of maximum no. of cars per hour than a three lane motorway with a 70mph speed limit.

     

    Yes it would have a lower maximum flow rate, assuming perfect (minimal) spacing and no one braking etc. Junctions, lanes merging etc prevent this ideal scenario. The point I'm making is that bad driving is getting right in the way of achieving anywhere near the maximum flow rate. As I say in the example above, lots of people trying to go too fast for the conditions means more braking, unecessary deceleration and acceleration, and acheiving a really naff average speed.

    On more remote motorways, higher speeds are more easily and safely achievable, but only because the volume of traffic is lower. I'm only (theoretically) suggesting it might help on busy stretches of motorway. Variable limits would probably be the best (theoretical) solution, but then driving in this country simply isn't good enough!


  13. Don't get me wrong, I rarely stick to the 70 limit and I do like to get places in a reasonable timeframe....ahem

    I have often pondered the benefits of making motorways and main routes say 50mph. I reckon there would be less accidents and less of this bunching thing that causes havoc on the motorways. (speed up, slow down, speed up.....etc) You would be able to predict (hopefully through more predictable conditions) how long it would take you to get somewhere with greater accuracy and save fuel.

    I think in some cases you might get places quicker. Every morning I join the M27 and do the bunching thing for 5 miles, my average speed is well under 50. Because everyone is trying to do 80, then they spot a brakelight on the horizon, slam on the anchors, speed up, slam on...grrrrr! If everyone was doing 50...ish. Merging would be easier, better stopping distances, less need to slam on etc etc

    I think it makes a lot of sense. Lets hope they never bring it in!

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