VEEDUBBED

???

Have you got a spare fuel pump relè? just incase yours is buggered.

I don't remember what type of relè was fitted to the 16v models that control the fuel pump but if you let me know the number i've got loads.

Grab a 12v test lamp, spare 'raddo indicator bulb holders are great, remove relè from fuse box, using the test lamp see if 12v+ is actually reaching the fuse box,

if you do have 12v at the terminals and the light lights you can exclude the feeds as your fine.

On the back of the relè the feet are numberes, 30, 50, 87, 87b etc with the ignition on use a fused piece of wire and insert into the fuse-board the corresponding 30/50 and see if the pumps buzz into life.

One quickish way of ascertaining if the pumps are stuck is to get hold of a small 12v battery, 2 lenghts of wire to attach to the battery using croc clips and feeding 12v+ direct to both pumps from the fuel float sender or wriggle under the car and jump the main pump itself to see if it runs.

Also try whacking the pump with a stout bit of wood, being carefull not to split the fuel pump plastic reservoir..

Can you make sense of all that?

Let me know how you get on..

Age old problem mate,

I'm not even bothering to touch the buggers anymore, I just get a set of electric motors

Off eBay and modify the lamp accordingly..

I may have one spare in my headlamp box of bits but don't hold your breath.

Tomorrow I'll check.

I know what you mean about being laid up, mine's been hibernating for 7 years now..

Anyway, is the car kept inside? Corrosion could play havoc virtual anywhere on the electrics. Have you got an alarm fitted? Maybe the immobilized has tripped, cutting the feed. Try bridging the 30/50 contacts on the the fuse board, using a jumper wire, that way you will be directly feeding the fuel pump, isolating the rèle.

If not, prize open the rèle and manually touch the main contacts together with the ignition on and then see I the fuel pumps buzz.

Was the car left with no or low fuel in the tank? If yes, check that both pumps haven't seized.

Let me know how you get on.

Declan, i take it you got what i posted?? Did everything fit ok?

£10 for the buggered foglamp?

Yeah, different lenses between sides.

Vitually impossible to remove without breaking the buggers, let alone trying to remove the original white

glue stuff used when they were made..then you have to get a tube of Sikaflex proper sealant to reglue the thing back in.

How's your reflector? rusty, yellowed, tarnished? I might have a 2nd series lens left over but they are like hens teeth.

How about a complete foglamp?

I'd first check the actual Cable, may need lubricating after 20+ years. Disconnect the cable from

The throttle body and try and see if the cable still binds, that way you can exclude the throttle body

Have a look that nothing is catching on the accelerator pedal such as loose car mat or maybe a loose bit of trim.

If you still can't find the cause, it's VEEDUBBED to the rescue with a spare throttle body, cable..or both..

Watch it mister fuzzer..

I thought you were gonna look for those foglamp clips???

Now they would make a GREAT BIRTHDAY PRESENT..

Seeing as it WAS My birthday..yesterday.. And i'm still feeling chirpy you get the Sensor For free mate!

PM me your address and I'll pop it in the post.

Cheers.

Lol! Thanks guys!

...Yes, not one of you rats remembered that it's VEEDUBBED'S birthday.. Bunch of gits..

Did you sort out the problem with the headlight Rich?

Def. Get some photos up of the broken foglamp mate.

If you have the cover and little clip i'm taking it mate, the problem is the clip as without they are very difficult to find.

Let me know, Cheers.

Def. a UK right hand side drivers foglamp.

Should still have one off a 19.000km ABV 2.9 Vr mill, i'll check later on and get back to you.

Have you got the important light bulb clip and back cover still?

I'll have a look and see if i've got any batt. side headlamps left.

I'm sure i've got a good one amongst many g60 eeproms.

I'll check later on and let you know, also add a few photos.

Demon Tweeks eh? try ebay first mate as that lot have high prices..

I used the push-on fittings yonks ago but i didn't like them one bit and 1 kept leaking too, with 6/7 Bar oil pressure that's the last thing you need.. Get the proper screw on fittings, 1/2" BSP would be fine.

I wouldn't chance the filter housing though, too much pressure involved, especially with a cold engine, fit the bugger upside down and have done, probably won't be able to see it once fitted anyway..

Let me know if you need any help.

Would you accept £60 for the fogs?

Hi matey,

Could i have a Price on both door handles and both foglamps? A few

Photos would be Great.

Cheers.

Er, chin up and happy easter!!

Which reminds me, i do have a spare ecu..

I think I threw it all of it out when I scrapped an old car 4 months ago as I can't find anything..

Over to Chris.

Ah ok, never heard of it so sounds like a great idea.

What's 'Mineral glas?' recycled Perrier water bottles?

So i send you a cracked foglight lens and you send me two Perrier Mineral glasses, right?

Not terribly clear mate..

Yes, you def. need the bolt that should have been included, i see that it also has holes in it as my spare one

doesn't. That center bolt is essential as it's 18/24 where as the Volvo unit and the original Vw bolt are a constant diameter.

Have you got the outlet pipes threaded unions, like those on the photo? obviously, you going to have to match the threads of the cooler itself and its relative pipework. The threaded unions could be BSP, JIC, AN, metric..

Was the rubber oil seal already on the Mocal plate when you bought it? Is there a cut-out on the housing the seal sits in? I'm asking because if you fit the plate onto your g60's filter take-off with the smooth end butted up the cast word 'Mocal' would be upside down, might mean nowt but normally the manufacturers name would be visible, it would look bodged too..

Make sure that the Mocal threaded pipe your gonna get has the same thread as the Vw oil filter too..