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VEEDUBBED

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Posts posted by VEEDUBBED


  1. Right,

    I've got a few remaining bits off a 19.000km '92 ABV Vr6 2.9 mill left up for grabs.

     

    Distributer complete with rotor,cap and leads £70

     

    Ecu £80

     

    Downpipe £50

     

    Pistons and rods, no rings though. £ 80

     

    sump and oil pump £60

     

    Flywheel, a bit rusty £20

     

    Crankshaft £80

     

    Block £80

     

    Inlet manifold, upper and lower bits £60

     

    Injectors and rail and fpr. £ 70

     

    Crankshaft pulley £ 20

     

    Chances of finding comonents off an ultra low milage vr is gonna be quite slim my dear chimps Sooo get your wonga out and buyyyy.

     

    2.0 9A 16v exhaust manifold and down pipe and center silencer, all off a corrado that tood 10 years in a lock up and had 66.000km. £60

     

    2nd series foglamps and indicators, 1 foglamp has a small chip on the glass. £150

     

    I'll unearth a few more bits over the weekend..


  2. Allrite my christmas stuffed chums,

    I have'nt touched a digifant equipped g60 in about 10 years now, i've forgot a Great deal..

    Whilst timing the engine, after adopting the special procedure and obtaining the famous 28/30 degrees advance, when you re- reconnect up the blue temp sender and recheck the timing at idle, what would one see? 6 degrees or something else? In other words, would the ecu, after coming out of learning mode, revert back to 6 degrees at idle.

    I Know, sounds like a noob question but i just can't rememeber..


  3. Right chimpys,

    This time i'm in a spot of bother and need a specific component..

    I need that dam metal joiner pipe the connects the coolant hose to radiator, it's got a small 10mm bolt that secures it onto the front engne mount.

    Fuk all available here and not even Vw classic parts can help..

    Let me know if anyone has 1.

    Ta.


  4. Heat wrap the oil feed line..better still, try making it out of solid copper pipe or metal. When pushing a turboed 16v mill the turbo sometimes glows red hot and the heat rises.. When i do turbos i run the feed along the bulk head just to avoid this.

    If you can't or don't want to redo it, at least wrap the oil line with reflective heat tape.

    And while your at it, pop over here to Rome and redo my 3" exhaust..awsome welding done there.

    Def. look into fitting a restrictor if it's a BB catridge'd turbo and a big oil cooler, Lancia delta integrale ones are great or any other make, seeing as the turbo's only oil cooled.


  5. Rebuilt loads of 'raddo headlamos chimps..

    First off, don't even attempt to remove the plastic beam adjusters, you could litrally just flick the buggers and they'crumble. Spray wd40 onto the orings then try and remove them, don't turn the sods the wrong way, they WILL break..

    I find the best way of getting them out is by removing the lens then flicking off the plastic holder that snaps into the reflector lens, that way you can then soak the fekkers from both sides.

    I have no idea what kind of plastic was used but god if it's $hit.


  6. 100%??? You sure? wow, that's quite a difference..

    Mate of mine in the states has a golf vr 2.8 AAA mill, he wants to fit a complete ABV inlet set-up off my spare engine. Is it just a simple bolt on job, swap one for another?


  7. Gonna be a sod to find, as soon as you so much as fart near them they self distruct..

    I normally just buy two spare electric motors and modify the headlamps so that i'll never have to worry about the dam things again.

    The motors can be bagged off ebay.de, you'll rarely find them elsewhere.

    They normally go for 40/50€ used, they're a great solution 'cos there's a manual turn knob on the back of the motor to adjust the beam hight.

    I'll see if maybe i have 1 lurking down in garage.

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