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VEEDUBBED

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Posts posted by VEEDUBBED


  1. That is most definaly broken mate, age old problem concerning the old, brittle plastic used.

    I normally just buy 2 electric motors off ebay.de and adapt them onto the headlamp's reflectors.

    If you do manage to remove some off doner headlamps,without the things crumbling, remember to spray some silicone spray onto the bayonet parts BEFORE trying to refit the buggers.

    I'll see if i have any spare motors.


  2. If you bought the loom, you'd get it free..sorry, couldn't resist..

    I've actually never posted off something so small to the Uk before, no idea mate.

    Let me see if I still have one attached to the loom and I'll get back to you.

    When you tape up the wires use proper non sticky looming tape, preferably made by Tesa.


  3. Right, I can see that the fan motor's plug has either melted or been damaged in some other way, looks bloody awful. I might have a spare one on my vr loom.

    The photo showing the damaged harness boot is gonna be a sod to repair, you'd have to practically remove every terminal and fit a new boot..

    The last photo shows the actual wiring harness hanging down sans it's looming tape that probably disintegrated yonks ago, no loss really as the tape was total crap anyway..

    Which reminds me.. I still have an entire engine loom of a low milage vr engine..the tapes as soft as it was 20+ years ago when it was new.


  4. Follow the clutch cyilinder's feed line from the gearbox bell housing.

    Engine covers pop up on ebay from time to time, if not, plenty of folk on here have bits, try chris-lillfuzzer.

    Quite normal for spare wires to be found, even inside the actual loom itself! unless something is missing or has been detached..

    Most of the plastic on these cars is getting quite brittle now, bonnet cable clips snap as soon as you look at the buggers, don't touch the headlamp adjuster's 3 pronged attachment that screws into the headlight.. foam under bonnet disintegrates, as does the foam present on the internal heater box flaps, the little foam cushions present on the interior wiring looms, door handles snapping, Aux. water pumps packing up,water pipes breaking..


  5. The entire NA exhaust will be ditched mate, the turbo has its own

    Manifold and downpipe. The turbo is bolted onto the manifold's flange

    Then the downpipe is connected to the turbine outlet of the turbocharger.

    Have a look on the web for a few photos.

    Remember, the entire exhaust is going to be replaced regardless so either make up your own or buy universal

    Silencers or get a company to do it all at great expense..

    Which reminds me, I've got a decent spare bottom end you could use..


  6. Begs the question, How the fuc were they tightened down in the first place?...

    Check the crank really carefully now 'cos now that a bearing has spun god knows if it's scored the journals.

    I'll have a peek within my spare ABV block For those oil spray jets, not that i can see those causing the problema you previously described.

    Ask Your mate who did the rebuild if he angle-tightened the rod bearing bolts.

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