VEEDUBBED

...And replace the shiyte paper version with the 9A's far superior metal/rubber jobbie.

Check also that silly little return hose stub on the expansion bottle ain't blocked.

Are the internal heater matrix's hoses hot?,both of them?.

If i recall the 9A's tank has a smaller opening compared to the Vr's fuel tank.

What are you trying to do?,fuel lifter pump packed up?

Checked the bugger,it works fine.

I'll check the wiring...

I reckon about 3 years old,strange thing is that with the other clutch it didn't do this..

Right then lads,

I've recently fitted a Competition Clutch stg 4 clutch in place of the other

carbon/Kevler garbage that i got from the states as it slipped badly even

after the break-in period.

The clutch its self is fine,grabs like a mofo but that's to be expected,as i've only

done 50km/s distance since fitting it and i need another 450 miles to finish.

My big problem is that,apart from the hard pedal,is that the clutch has a different biting point.

When cold on first starting/moving the car the clutch has about half an " play so,even if it grabs,

i can atleast pull away.The problem arises when the car is at normal operating temp.,i loose all play

The clutch bites and drags as if the clutch slave cyl. doesn't push the clutch in enough to engauge the gears and i'm left with only a few mm's of play.

Faulty master cyl?,old fluid?,faulty clutch?.

Cars gettin on my fu$$in nerves now..

WTF is going on here?,

After changing the clutch on my ride i've just noticed that the speedo

has now become a rev-counter.Here's what happens:start car,if i don't move the car

the speedo's needle don't move,if i move the car the speedo needle registers engine rpm

really bloody weird...

The speedo still works but also registers the revs aswell!,say i'm at 60km/h the needle stays on 60 but

it also moves when revvin :(

Anyone ever had this issue? or is it a VEEDUBBED induced defect.

This car is turning my hair white...

Not allowed mate,the car won't pass the MOT for a start

as it's forbidden to to fit even an 'effin strut brace for gawd's sake.

Forget aftermarket exhausts,4" tail pipes,added on turbos(me..),external mods but definatly

bigger wheels,brakes etc.

You can put on bigger wheels but if you stopped and the rozzer on duty is in a crap mood

you lose your car 'cos it gets impounded and costs 8Euro a day at the pound+a heafty fine AND your

forced to re-take the MOT with the car as it left the factory.

I'm ok with the turbo as my car originally left Germany as a G60 so on the log book it states that

my car originally was force fed but if your ride is NA and turbo it,your risking big time as well as the

fact that the insurance won't pay in the event of an accident.

So peeps,if you love modding cars,bikes and gawd knows what else AVOID Italy :(

Hmm,good point,would it be faster? but would it be faster than mine that's runnin a hybrid ball bearing T4,8 injectors,LSD.modded gearbox ratios,

modded cams,ext. wastegate,compleat 3" exhaust,short manifold and 2 Bar turbo press on a 7.7/1 CR.

BUT still the original bloomin brakes...

I don't see 288mm brake discs doing alot to stop my car on full chat.

You people are sooo lucky as you can do almost whatever you like to cars,ain't happening here..

Right peeps,I can't get the dam car outta my head.

The Corrado's a fine car,especially turboed like mine but at the end of the day i still

find myself stuck with a car that's FWD,i CAN'T change the wheels onas it's against the shit Italian rules.

So i've got a very powerfull mota but 280mm brakes and 15" wheelsnothing bigger is allowed!

I've come across two for sale quite near me so i'm thinking of part exchanging in the 'raddo for the omega.

Has anyone got experience of the Lotus carlton?,i remember that the spares situ. was horrendous and the gearboxes give trouble

as did the clutch fork mech.

Enlighten me with some ideas.

Cheers.

What are you drivin mate a 'raddo or a steam engine?.

That's the first i've heard of any device like the 1 you mentioned.

Sounds like a duff fuel pump,can you be more specific?,does it make the noise when the

engines hot or cold?

I bought a set of JE forged jobbies off a guy who is on the Vwvortex,i got an exellent deal,fully heat treated on crown

and sides and with custom CR specified by me,his name is Rodney Huss.

Apart from the pistons also think carefully about engine manegment,here there's no corner cutting allowed.

I fitted Weber/Pectel managment taken off a 4x4 Saff. Cossy,the 8 inj. version and it goes fine but will obviously have to re-map sooner or later as the engine has a small flatspot right after idle.

I would also get a stronger gearset and poss. uprated clutch.

As you can see,it's gonna cost...

Allrite then peeps,

I've done a few turbo valver mills in the past so i can offer you a few tips.

The 16v rad is ok for cooling if your not running insane boost,the most important

thing is to bin the oil warmer fitted as standard,it's no good for FI.

I used the oil cooler fitted on the Lancia delta evo-1,very fragile as it's made of Aluminium but does a good job.

The Vr6/G60 660mm OE rad. is superb,ideal for turbo motors.

Old Volvo 740 turbos donate their oil cooler sandwich plate and adequate 16row cooler aswell.

USE the metal OE headgasket fitted to the 2.0ABF long block mill,it fits straight on

the 9A/KR blocks no problem,on the 9A2.0 block just tap down 1 locating pin and enlarge the gasket's hole.

Junk the OE inlet manifold and get a short version,this also greatly improves acsess to the camshafts.

Bin the 9A cam and get either a KR inlet or modifiy the KR's 'zorst cam and fit that as it's got nearly 2mm more lift.

Watch it when milling down the OE pistons as the most you can safely remove is 2mm,add 2mm taken off the con rods by offset bushing and

you'll have around 9.0/9.2-1 CR,perfectly useable but i would'nt push more than 1 Bar absolute turbo press. as

the engine tends to detonat around the edges of the piston possibly destroying the ring lands.

Forged slugs are ideal and are much cheaper now than 10+ years ago when i started fiddling around.

If i think of anything else i'll post it up.

Welcome aboard matey :D

Grab the head off the KR mill along with it's cams

and bolt it onto the 9Ablock,change the pistons to forged jobbies and then turbo the bugger.

Have fun!.

Or if you can't find 1 for a 9A get a g60 shell instead,they are the same.

Right peeps,were do i begin??,

So far i've added a large,thicker aluminium rad. with 2 12" fans,put a lower rated thermostat in(with 2 small holes to avoid air locks),G12 coolant,Seat marbella rad.fan switch that should cut in at 85 degrees,large oil cooler off a Lancia delta int. and fan relay rigged to run at max.

Ok,my engines a turbo16v but in traffic the gauge still creeps up to 110 degrees,as does the oil temp,they are

both nearly identical in readings.

It has been almost 40 degrees here this summer so maybe that counts aswell.

As soon as i hit motorway speeds both go down to around 80,even with outside temps of nearly 40.

Walsey's right,you get paranoid and are constantly looking at the temp. gauge...

As title peeps,

What's the biggest disks 1 can fit inside a set of 15" BBS RM's??.

Including the caliper.

Mikki,remember that i was refering to a LHD steering rack!,my fault as i always forget that your versions are RHD.

So what i said will probably be no good to you :(

Oh,now i get you.

Unfortunatly the two pipes you refer to in the picture are in the same place on the ZF rack aswell.

The only thing to do would maybe bend the pipes? or get two 90degree fittings made up and re-route

the pipes lower?.

V8 sounds very interesting..when you've finished bi-turbo the bugger :D.

Oh $hit,forget my advice,even after 23years of living a different country i still forget that my car is a damm LHD and the British rides are RHD...

On my corrado the in/outlets of the high press. pipes on the VR6 ZF rack are positioned

on the righthand side of the rack,opposite the steering rack's pinion that's connected to

the steering colom's uj's.

The pipe unions don't go near the gearbox bell housing,at least not on the Corrado model.

Cheers.

Hi mikki,

Remember also that if you fit the ZF VR rack your also gonna need to change the PS pump/lines and fit the corrisponding ZF pump as the lines and attachments are different to the TRW equipped 'raddos.

The ZF track rod arms are also longer and some of the TRW versions have a small lip machined on the threaded end were the arms screw into the rack,the ZF rack's gaitors are also bigger in diameter to the TRW G60 rack's versions as the VR's steering arms are slightly bigger in diameter.

Remember to use strong locktite thread lock when replacing the arms,i've bolted up the G60 (shorter) arms without any problems so far.

I did this on my 'raddo a few years back and it was a good mod,seeing as i got all the parts for free!..

I can't help with the photos as with a 3 inch exhaust going over the rack there's no room.

I'm based in Rome,Italy mate :D .

Your not allowed to talk about the eeprom programming??,that's fukin absurd,why not?.

Your in the same boat as me,ecu/chip wise.I've got the same problem on my T.16v 'raddo running

Weber/iaw managment.Who can you entrust your ride to and hope he don't fry pistons,rings etc.

Cheers.

Hi mate,

Shame as i've got a decent G60 engine block you could have had for

free..,even the pistons are good,i've got so many bits clogging up the place.

I reckon on some piston slap cold(at least) and possibly higher oil consumption.

Was the ridge that bad?,could'nt you have just Flex-honed the bores?.

How is the eeprom reading coming along?,i'm in the same position as you...

Same bull$hitt rules apply here in Italy mate,the only way

of going about it here is to buy a G60 'raddo and turbo it,the reason

being that on the log book it states that the engine is force fed from

the factory.

I'm screwed twice over here 'cos i can't change the wheels for bigger ones,

which means that even with a 400hp engine i'm stuck with 280mm front brakes.

What these stoopid bastids don't realise is that young people DO like modding

their rides and are WILLING to pay to get the mods passed.

Right peeps,

A word of warning to all of you who maybe contemplating the idea

of turboing there valver,i bought a manifold off eBay in Germany

a few days back to replace the Audi S4 jobbie on my car for two reasons,1,

the manifold keeps cracking and two acsess to remove the turbo is awful.

I bought the 'snake' type jobbie off the auction but luckly i didn't pay

the 'Buy it now' price of 480euro :shock: ,instead i betted and got it for less than

half.Anyway the manifold is nice and cromed,shiny etc BUT,the inside of the manifold is

really fukin crap,the dikhead who made it Tig welded the pipes 1 inside the other with huge

overlaps that,if you fitted the manifold like this,would surely bugger up the outgoing gas..

I'm talking huge burrs inside the primerys,sloppy crap workmanship.

Remember that the outside looks great but a 4 year old could have done a better job re-finishing it.

I'm really fukin amazed that a piece of shiyt like that wouldn't have been checked at the quality control

stage?.

Watch out! :D