VEEDUBBED

Hmm,that motor of your looks as if at some point its had a prang...

I reckon you should just get some Sikaflex sealant and go over the cracked sealant,not a lot

else you can do really.

As for the mount,i'm not sure if the vr's front bracket is different than the G60 jobbie,if they are

the same i've got a few spare.

Cheers.

Peeps,

How does 1 select the outside temp. reading on the MFA,mine has

gone AWOL...,which ever way i press the button i don't get that function.

The little blue temp. sender down under the bumper is there,as is the connector.

Cheers :)

I fitted the ZF rack off a Vr on my G60 a while back.

Your gonna need to also change the PS pump to the VR's ZF type,you'll need the feed and suction pipes changed to the VR's.

You'll need to change the steering universal joint near the pedals to the 22 spline later versionfitted to '91/'92 corrados.

Your also gonna have to change over the steering arms in place of the longer VR versions,the earlier versions bolt into the VR

rack ok but the threaded portion of the early rack arms is a bit short,just locktite them in as i did.

I found that the quality of the ZF rack compared to the TRW jobbie fitted to my G60 was much better,so was

the steering 'feel'.

Remember also that if you have lowered your car and are running 205/50/15 rubber the tyres will rub on the car frame.

Thanks guys,

I'll look into it,i've just noticed that 1 set of these calipers are, as Henny said,burnt blue...

Sorry for the late reply!,i'm on so many dam forums that i lose track...

Anyway,seeing as your going to get the job done at the machine shop you may

aswell as them if they can do it for you,they will know what the tecnique is.

The Fex-hone is a sort of brush that you attach to an electric drill and after you've

done the boring you pass it up and down the bores to finish hone the cylinders.

I did it my self whilst rebuilding my 'raddos engine.

Yes you may suffer with some piston slap,i have a bit but nothing bad as many people make it out to be.

1 other thing,lots of people have had issues regarding heavy oil consumption

when using forged slugs,especially JE-pistons,after doing at least 3 engines with

both JE-pistons and Italian CPS forged jobbies and using the Brush techniques supplied Flex-hone all three engines consumed no oil.i wonder why...

Right peeps,

I've been given 2 sets of Brembo front calipers,they came off 2 scrapped Lancia K turbo 20vt's,they are the same type as fitted to various Porsches aswell.. and they are big buggers.

They dwarf the smaller version fitted to various Fiat coupe 20vt's,delta integrale,scoobys etc.

Does someone make brackets for these calipers in order to retro fit them onto the 'raddo's hub?.

Has anyone done it before?.

If you get the chance Flex-hone the block,i've done 3 engine blocks using the Flex-hone and it makes a huge difference

to oil consumption,especially when using forged pistons.

I used JE-pistons in my turboed 'raddo,Toyota mr2 turbo,8v turbo golf etc,oil consumption so far on all the engines is

0.

I just changed the front(bigger) bearing on my recently acquired 9A engine,i had a spare

G60 block so i just punched out the old 1 and tapped back the G60 bearing.

Remeber to align the oil feed hole!,no need for any press but i reckon the inner shell

would be a bitch to remove without Vw tools...

Right,i need to make a portable rev-counter to use on my 'raddo while tuning the mill.

I've got a spare instrument cluster that i can break up and just use

the rev-counter,there are 4 pins on the back of the small rev-counter head.

I'd like to know how to wire up the pins?,which pin goes to the coil,earth,feed etc.

Thanks for any info.

They are definatly different mate,especially the rear Vr's engine mount.

Different anti roll bar links,wishbones are different/wider.

I'm not 100% sure but i don't think the jetta mill has oil cooling jets,

there won't be a drain line for the charger's oil line,small job of drilling and tapping maybe?.

extra cooling passages in the block may not be present,the large oval passage right under the timing

sprocket won't be there,which is a good thing seeing as it serves fuk all.

I may be mistaken but i'm not sure if the jetta/golf had a forged crank or not.

No provision for the Digifart's knock sensor that's originally fitted in that fake core plug,although

if the golf/jetta engine originally had Digi fitted there possibly was a knock sensor fitted somewere.

Cant think very clearly as i've got the 'effin flu... :(

Thermostat is located in a awkward position,under the water pump inside a plastic housing.

If you know that the thermostat is missing you obviously know were it's located? or am i not reading your post correctly?.

Allrite chaps,

Anyone know were/if i can buy a set of side skirts like these ebay jobbies?,

silly fukin canadian ain't answering my questions.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0318080851

I feel for you mate :( ,

I overhauled the engine on my mate's gen.2 mr2 turbo,right bastid of a job and i did it for free...

Anyway,seeing as the intercooler is a compleat pig to get to i'd first check that the fixing clamps have actually clamped the boost hoses,it's esay to miss the hose and as soon as the turbo boosts it pops off the hoses.

Is the turbo actually boostin?,does the instrument panel boost gauge register?.

Make sure that this garage tensioned the cambelt properly,nitemare to do in situ.

Make also sure that the car's cooling system has been bled,again another bastid of a job.

1 other thing,the fuel filter is easily fitted the wrong way up,the 'in-out' letters aren't immidiatly visable

and i've seen them fitted backwards.

I've just fitted a T4s inside my engine bay and have no issue problems,mine's a 2.0 9A turbo though.

The only way your gonna get the exhaust bends in are turning the turbo the other way,inlet on the

brake servo side,you'll still have to make a few bends and a 76mm down pipe if done wrong will foul

the steering rack or if your using a .63 or bigger exhaust housing will also kiss the ABS pump's heat shield :(

Looking at the exaust 90 degree bend in your picture i reckon you could also extend it so it goes around the

engine mount-LOTZ of fabricating involved...

Don't froget to fit a flexi joint in the middle,very important :D

I forgot to mention that you can buy tight 90 degree bends off Demon Tweeks,that's how i got my corrado's downpipe to fit,even so,it's still a tite bastid fit!.

It aint on the head mate,the 2 switches are located on the oil filter housing next to each other.

1's got a yellow wire whilst the other has a blue and black wire.

When i fitted my hybrid Vr6 gearbox with a new Peloquin LSD the hardest part was getting the crownwheel off

the old diff.I don't have a hyd. press so i heated the ring gear with a blowtorch and used a mallet and bashed the bastid out.

I didn't even have to mess around with pre-load shims as i used the existing shims,1000KM done and no funny noises.

Getting the new ring gear on is easier because the (new) diff. bolts pull the gear onto the diff.

You could use VEEDUBBED'S patented method of pre-load checking,install the diff. back into the gearbox casings and with the oil drain plug removed turn the crownwheel using a screwdriver in it's normal direction of rotation,the pre-load is accetable if you feel some resistence when turning/pushing the crownwheel's teeth.

It must not be locked up or slop around,i make it sound easy but if in doubt let someone with experience tackle the job...and pay the bugger lotz for the privelege :D

I've wrapped two 3inch turbo downpipes with that wrap and all i can say is it's garbage,the stuff lasts a couple of months then turns to dust.

Sparky's right,if you use the wrap do wear laytex gloves as the itching will drive you apeshit,wear a dust mask aswell.

The 'Grafite impregnated' wrap is also bollox,it looses it's colour not long after you install it and smokes badly.

I bought the latest 'copper impregnated' affair but i'm not gonna fit it,30 squids wasted.

The downpipe also started rusting soon after installing even AFTER i'd applied two coats of high temp. paint as a protective primer :mad2:

Maybe the protective spray the company suggests to use would prolong the life of the wrap,who knows?,all i know is that the bloody stuff can't be posted abroad...

Remember to use a water spray bottle to wet the wrap whilst installing as it helps dampen down the dust.

PART NUMBER PLEEZE :mad2:

Thanks rob,i didn't check the thread... :D

Exact expansion bottle PN pleeze :D

Yep,this must be the 10th 'raddo i've dismantled over the years

A mate of mine called me on thursday and said that they have got in as scrap a '92 9A valver,i go look and decide to get a few bits.I got 2 front wings in good nick,just a small ding on 1 corner,2 mirror glasses,the whole front screen,all the plastic surround under the wiper blades(all undamaged),2 door handles(both work and 1 has a key),2 headlamps that are undamaged,front fogs/indicators(perfect),interior bits and a couple of engine bits,idle valve etc.

I dismantled the car using my tools and i started at 9.00am and finished at 12.00 noon.

All for 200Euro,good price or robbed??.

Comments pleeze.

Or do it yourself like i did,no special tools exept a special valve seal remover i bought years ago at

a tool fair.You'll have to make up a punch,i made one out of an old turbo wastegate actuator arm ground down so

it fit inside the guide.

1 very important thing to remember is BEFORE removing any guides,measure the guide's height from inside the cyl. head first,use a Vernier caliper and see how much the guide's sholder potrudes,mine were 11mm.

Once i didn't do this and then wondered why my newly re-built 16v head smoked worse than when i blew the turbo,the

hyd. tappets hammerd the new stem seals to death because the guides were fitted too high in the head...

I changed all 16 guides without heating anything,i didn't even bother to lubricate the guides with oil,i just sat the head on a flat block of wood and hammered the fookers untill they were spat out the combustion chamber side.

No problems at all :D

Alright mate :D

No i didn't do as you suggested,which i will do.

Could you send me that link again?.

Thanks.

Right peeps,

Who knows what type of rpm signal leaves the G60 ecu analogue or digital?.

I'm still trying to get a clean signal on the rev-counter as the needle jumps about alot.

Dirtytorque suggested using a 10.ohm resistor which i've tried but without any luck.

My car's running a dry coil more or less like the VR6 coil+ign. amp.

Cheers :D