VEEDUBBED

It's a kind of hesitation you feel when your accelerating,you'll def. see it if you have a narrow or wideband o2 sensor fitted,the car will show lean for about half a second then go rich.

I don't know why Vw engineered this awful fault into the Digichips,you'll also feel the difference when comparing the O/E eeprom with an SNS 'no-lag' chip.

Danny and Mkrad(SNS guys who uncoded the O/E chips) i think are the only people who managed to eliminate the lag.

They certainly know their shi$...

Quite wasy once you've done it a couple of times,remove the ecu from the car,remove the plastic ecu casing's screws and pull off the casing,then you'll find a white plastic sheet that i never worked out what it's for?,anyway,remove that by sliding it off the two plastic pin head things,then remove the two small screws securing the circuit board,along with the two plastic pin head things that pull upwards and off,then try and compress the pin head's pins that also secure the board and lift up the upper half of the circuit board that's hinged to the bootom half.

Once you've managed to dismantle the upper half you'll then see a metal cover secured with about 5 small screws and nuts,undo them all,remove plates(remembering their order),you will then see the eeprom,carefully pull on the chip untill it disengages from it's chip holder and you've done it.

Remember to re-fit the chip with it's orientation notch opposite the holder's notch and don't bend or snap any eeprom feet when re-installing(quite easy...).

I personally would'nt settle for any other chip other that the SNS version because the other eeproms all contain Digilag which is a royal PITA.

HTH,be patient and take your time.

It depends on how much the wastegate in the picture was set to.Normally the 'gate should open at around .7Bar(6-7 PSI?),once you've connected up the boost gauge and fitted back the solonoid(connect the solonoid inline with the wastgate,1 pipe to wastegate's barb and the other pipe to compressor housing's barb)don't connect the Pierburg's connector up yet,take the car for a test run on a bit of open quiet road and in third accelerate and see what boost is being produced,if more than the above mentioned boost is produced try loosening the actuator arm on the wastegate to decrease boost,if the boost is too low do the opposite to the arm.

You will know if the car is overboosting if you get a big surge in power,watch the gauge carefully(and the road..),initial boost would be set to around that figure then try again with the Pierburg valve connected.

If you keep overboosting the small Garret T25 you'll shag the shaft bearings in no time and,depending on fuel availability/press./flow,CR,piston strength,headgasket type etc you could either break the piston's ring lands or hole them,when your out testing the car be very carefull to listen for knock,pinging,pinking-all lethal to the pistons.

Let me know how you get on.

That's right mate,connect the solonoid as you described,at most if you connect the solonoid

wrong it won't work,but be very carefull when testing the car that the turbo doesn't overboost.

The inlet manifold is ideal for the boost gauge's input.

By the way,what's that red dust inside the turbo's inlet?,don't let any muck or dust inside the turbine housing,blow it out using a compressor?.

I've got exactly the same problem as your car my friend,i also have the VR6 cluster but i've got a 02A Passat TDI 'box fitted to my 2.0 turbo16valve mill.The speedo at first works fine but as soon as you boot the bloody car with a bit of welly the needle drops to zero.

I noticed the problem after noticing that the speedo wires and connector were touching the 3inch downpipe from the turbo,i checked the wires and apart from having melted the external rubber protection the wires are fine and so are the small connectors.

I'll try and check tommorow to see if there is any other damage caused,not only do i not have a working rev-counter(Weber/Iaw injection) now the speedo's fu$ing around.

Let me know if you find your problem,i'll do the same.

Normally the boost gauge can be fitted to any vacume source off the inlet manifold,that way you will see both positive boost and also vacume on overrun etc.If you fit the wastegate's rubber pipe onto the turbine housing you'll see possibly only positve boost on the car's gauge.

That solonoid is just a variation of the old Pierburg overboost bypass valve used on turboed deltas,cosworths,escort rs turbos etc,i noticed that you solonoid has a connection,were was it connected to?,do you have a seperate ecu supplied with the Turbotechnics original kit?.I don't see how your going to make it work without.

I remember that the T3/4 Ford escort cosworths and Evo-1 Lancia delta integrales

both had Weber/Iaw injection and the Pierburg valves were activated for 3-5 seconds by the car's ECU.

Need a bit more info. mate,what turbo?(looks like a Garret T25 or possibly T3?),the brass outlet from the compressor housing could be used for a turbo press. gauge.Your wastegate looks like 1 of my older conversions i did using a Garret T3/4 off a L.delta evo.1,1 nipple was connected the inlet side while the other nipple was used to operate the Pierburg overboost valve,like an Amal valve fitted to turboed cosworths.

Do you need that solonoid?,give me a bit more information and i'll try and help.

Are you turboing your Vr mill?,i don't see the point or advantage of using two fibre gaskets?,first i've heard of this idea..

What Vr engine is it you have?,ABV 2.9?.

Are the rods out of the engine?,if they are try to find an old piston gungeon pin and fit it over the new bolt,then put the rod into a large vice and slowly close the vise untill the bolt is pushed into position,heating the rod end with a blow torch expands the rod,helping the bolt to seat.

If the rods are still inside the mill you could do the same thing using small metal spacers or lots of steel washers(old valver headbolt washers are ideal,after cutting the buggers of the bolts using an angle grinder).

Right,two months ago a friend of mine asked me if i could look at the brakes on his old fiat tipo,rare model fitted with ABS AND disk rear brakes.I had to change the rear pads and the only way possible to get the new pads in and push back in the piston was to detach the entire caliper and put it in the vice,undo the bleed valve and push/turn using the O/E Fiat brake winder tool,that bloody piston when still connected would'nt budge no matter how hard i used the tool.

A lot of mucky brake fluid shot out that had been there since 1990,brake fluid was never changed...

As a last resort try it.

The rack will fit fine,it's the small UJ'ed colom that changes,22 splines(1991 onwards) opposed to 20 of the older version,try and get matched items off the doner car?.

DIY.

I removed my 'raddos compleat A/C for the same reason-large intercooler and not being able to find Freon12,which means changing all the system's o-rings at least...

Also worth mentioning that when you open the expansion cap be carefull that the inner o-ring isn't displaced or turned inside out,check carefully and replace if it looks damaged.

1 other thing that happened years back on my golf T.16v when the headgasket went,DON'T attempt to open the expansion bottle because the pressure created within the cooling system will force off the o-ring and no amount off tightening of the cap will seal it again untill all the remaining coolant's has all been blasted out,possibly over you...

Yes miguel,you do have do remove the entire dash inorder to fit the bulky A/C unit,pipes,controls etc,etc.

By the way,how are you going to re-charge you 'raddos A/C system now that Freon12 is unobtainable??.

Sorry if i'm misleading you simon,the 10mm nuts fasten a small metal bracket that's located under the cubby hole infront of the gearstick,poke your bonce down in the passenger footwell along with a torch and you'll see the bracket,it's also opposite the small OBD diagnostic plugs.

1 last thing,if you re-use the O/E horrible Vw hose clamps when re-fitting the matrix,break off the small lug on the green clamps,the clamps/clips have a small metal protrusion that limits the travel the clip compresses to,i found that by removing this protrusion the clips opened up further and were easier to install in absence of the special pliers used by Vw for that type of clamp,you'll be able to get the sods on just using long nose pliers.

If you decide to eliminate the clips and use worm drive jobbies be carefull when tightening the clamps,the force of the worm drive clamp(if over tightened) can fracture the internal heater's inlet/outlet plastic stubs,leaving you stranded by the roadside,and having to do the whole bloody job again.

How do i know?...

I've got the Bently bible and to be honest i say it's quite crap,my opinion of coarse..

Did you disconnect the two heater hoses?,did you also disconnect the metal bracket under the center consol/ashtray?(10mm self locking nuts).

That's all i can remember,does your corrado have A/C?.

Hi simon,does your car have A/C or not?,if it's equipped with A/C your in for a fun weekend because it's a dash out job(i've done it 3 times now...)The nuts holding the unit to the bulkhead are within the engine bay,two are quite easy to spot,almost inline/opposite the timing belt plastic cover while the third is low down near/in front of the exhaust downpipe,the hardest part is getting the two hose clips off the internal radiator's hoses within the engine bay,under the ign.coil.The nuts have large washers and rubber backing washers that fall off the nuts if they are loose.

HTH.

How many do you need mate?,i've got a spare head with most studs fitted.

By the way,inorder to avoid the studs from pulling out,which they do even if 1 uses a torque wrench,is to put a tiny dot of Loctite stud fit on the threads when re-fitting the sods.

You can also get the rings in with the aid of small watch repairers screwdrivers,along with the ring compressor.

Exellent idea!,go ahead and try it!,then you can sell me your non-sunroof headlining... :D

Your quite right mate,i was woolgathering not thinking about the cable guide and plastic wheels...working through 35degree heat is doing my 'effin head in.

Some wires within the mess of wires behind the fuse box were'nt connected up to anything,many were spare,have you checked all the multiplugs that are located near the bonnet handle(i'm talking LHD here but your Brit.version should be the same)?,broken wires inside the rubber piece that protects the wires?(15 years of flexing opening of the doors etc),do you have current present at the motors?,at the switchs?,have you tried wapping switches over?.

Are the relays present?,working?,also while your down there check that the fuse box still has its white plastic retaining fork/clip things as they are bastids to put back again properly which results in the fuse box tilting downwards and sometimes ejecting a few relays or loosening the sods.

Cable?,i'm not aware of any cable fitted to the corrado's e.window,it's a sissortype arrangement,Audis have the type with a cable running around plastic wheels,i changed the roller once on an ancient Audi quattro and i'd advise you not to do it mate,absolute nightmare to put the cable back on its track.

Those badges are off the Recaros originally fitted to the ford sierra cosworths and possibly series 1/2 escort rs turbos,i bought a set a few days ago off eBay.uk so if you can wait a couple of days i'll measure them and let you know.