VEEDUBBED

If you have the skill/facilities fit the Weber/iaw injection system off various lancias,ford cosworths etc,the difference in power delivery/driveabiltiy between the two(Digi 1 vs iaw) is quite something.

I'm going to be taking some photos today of my set-up so you can see what's involved component wise,no more digi-lag,uncertain power delivery,any choice of injectors,2 MAP sensors(black and 3 BAR grey,as fitted O/E to the Lancia evo's),no more crumbly injector wiring harness and it's quite easy to re-programm using an emulator.

Seems like a stupid question but did your dad align up the cogged wheels EXACTLY?,also did he spin the charger by hand before fitting it back to the car?.

I've got a spare head with all the studs attached,send me your full address and i'll pop it in the post.

What kind of noise does your charger make??,metal to metal?,tapping etc.

Do what i did,buy or borrow a cheap small fuel press gauge and rig the gauge's fuel pipe in place of the fuel after-run switch,now with a long bit of fuel hose either put the gauge under the windscreen wiper or feed the hose into the car,along with the connected fuel gauge.

Now turn on the ignition and watch what happens,i'll bet the gauge barely moves on the first attempt,try this a few times untill the press. reads around 3bar.

The car will start immidiatly,i've got the same problem on my turbo16v corrado which i fitted a Bosch mk.2 valver K-jet pump into a few years back,my pumps got a faulty non return valve but seeing as to remove it takes ages(re-fitting is worse thanks to those stupid prongs on the bottom of the fuel tank that never engauge with the sender housing 'coz one can't see the buggers through the petrol...) i just turn on the fuel pump and prime it using a jumper wire connected to the pump's harness connector under the boot floor,after a couple of seconds,instant fuel press.

I forgot to say that i moved the batt. to the boot so +ive. would be easyier to obtain in my case but i'm sure you'd be able to add another +ive. without too much trouble.

Allright chaps,can someone confirm that the door striker/locks fitted to mk.2 golfs can be fitted on a corrado??,i used to have a mk.2 but for the life of me i can't remember if the sods were the same...

TIA,Andrew.

The shaft gets stuck because of that bloody large woodruff key gets jammed against the displacers oil seal,don't force it but get a pair of vice grips and grip the edge and tease it out of it's seating,it'll be tight but have patience and it will eventually move.

Be carefull when you rebuild the charger that the strips don't get dislodged when you go to shut the two halfs(coat the strips in kluber grease or use thick bearing grease).

I normally use silicone sealant on the casings and have never had any issues,time the cogs with the two timing marks that must align at 12o'clock and use a new 12mm cogged belt.

Don't worry if when you turn the charger you hear squelching,crunchy noise as this is normal(grease inside the displacer being compressed while turning the drive pulley).

Grab an electric drill.bung the rebuilt charger in a vice,secure it,cut down an old 17mm bolt that has the same thread as the G-charger's pulley securing bolt,fill the bearings with oil using a syringe and quickly spin up the charger with the drill,if while spinning the charger you can barely put your hand near the outlet of the charger(black plastic silencer or better still,ralley alloy outlet),99% of the time the charger will be fine when on the car,i've done this test loads of times and sold quite a few chargers without any issues.

HTH.

Bastid of a job,especially if working on your back on a jacked up car with stands..,you don't really need any kind of gasket goo,just remember to replace the plastic housing's O-ring and coat it in a little grease and make sure that the O-ring itself hasn't fallen off or been disloged while tying to relocate the housing in that god awful location.

1 other thing,make sure you use the correct length bolts on the aluminium PS pump housing that bolts to the engine block and don't over tighten them otherwise the longest bolt will just pinch the very edge of the plastic thermostat housing,dislodging the O-ring and cause a small leak,i learnt after stripping the fu$king thing down three times trying to see the cause of the mysterious leak...

I had the same problem on my G60/16v engine,it was def. the the tensioners the tension the ribbed G60 charger/alt belt so i stripped the tensioners and took off the small brass coloured washer located on the back of the tensioner and re-packed the bearings with fresh grease.This worked for a while but the tapping returned,my engine's tapping is very iiregular,sometimes it does'nt tap at all.God knows how much the tensioners cost from the stealer...

I've never known a cam belt tensioner to tap,they either work or sometimes sieze!,another short term remedy involves spraying the tensioners with WD-40 or simileur while the engine's running,the tapping noise instantly vanishes but not for long.

HTH.

I had on my first corrado the suspension set-up that i had on my old golf 2 1800cc16v,the shocks and eibach springs went on no problem,ride hight was a little higher though.

Hi sam,strange the gasket went,loads of reasons though.

Remember to use the metal head gasket when rebuilding and not the inferior fibre version.

New head bolts are also needed as are numerous seals,gaskets etc,change the timing belt and tensioner while it's all in bits.

When dismanteling the head,take the lot off all toghther,inlet manifold,exhaust etc because they are pigs to unbolt in situ.Check for any dodgy looking studs on the head,far easier to deal with now with the head on the work bench than when re-fitted...

Make sure the threads on the exhaust down pipe are free from rust and clean because they're a headache to remove and re-fit,patience required.

Check the injector loom isn't about to short out or fall to bits,clean out with comp. air all bolt holes,esp. the cyl. block 1's,check carefully the petrol feed pipe to the injector rail for signs of cracking,ageing etc and change if needed.Check also the oil cooler coolant hoses carefully and change the oil filter while the head is off,more room.Check the knock sensor's signal wire(probably cracked and change now that there's plenty of space,same thing applies to that crap plastic coolant flange on the front of the head.

Can't think of much more but i havn't had an 8v head on my car for ages...

I did a simuler job on my corrado last year,i had a damaged 2.0 valver rack on the car made by TRW,luckly i also had a spare mega low milage ZF rack.I had to change the inner steering arms as the valver TRW rack's versions are shorter,remember that it's IMPERATIVE that you use thread lock on the ball joint's threaded part that screws into the rack because when mixing the steering arms, 1 set (TRW) has a different threaded end compared to the ZF's arms,there's a kind of protrusion cast onto the ZF arms that's not present on the TRW arms so they won't bolt up flush to the steering rack end so in effect you can only screw the arms into the rack by a few threads... :D don't worry though,i've done this mod 15000km's ago and i'm still alive. :D

1 other thing you've got to do is change the PS pump over as the VR uses a ZF pump with a banjo bolt fixing on the high pressure side(TRW pump has a threade pipe union fitted) which also entails changing the HP oil feed pipe to the rack,track rod ends are the same but remember to fit them in the right order R+L sided,i fitted them wrongly first time because i couldn't remember which side is which seeing as the crap manual does'nt state from which end of the car i'm suppose to be looking from...Nothing happened,the car drove and steered normally.

If your using 205/50/15 inch rubber the tyres will rub on the inner wings when your at full lock,when using 195 tyres it does'nt happen,the steering universal joints bolt up no problem,just make sure your steering components come off a 2nd series corrado 22spline matched rack/UJshaft.

I feel that the ZF components are better quality than the TRW stuff,just my personal opinion.

I've got a Passat TDI 'box code 'DQY' on my turbo valver at the moment,great 'box and i'm happy with the longish ratios.My corrado is a little sleepy low down the rev range owing to the T3/4 turbo fitted with a .48 exhaust housing,modded exhaust-as-inlet cam and other things but you get used to it,don't think about being a traffic light hooligan by spinning the wheels in first and second,ain't gonna happen.

Much more relaxed motorway criusing when compared to the G60's 'CBA' coded 'box which tops out at 220km/h anyway..

I blew 2 020 'boxes on my old golf 2 T.valver,always stripping 2nd gear when using the GTD's 4T coded 5speed 'box,when i used the O/E 1.8 valver 'box the car would accelerate like a superbike but top out a 135mph.

Personally i would'nt bother using the Golf 3 TDI's 'box(ASD),i think you'll kill all the acceleration and caracter of the valver engine,possibly the 3rd gear off the ASD,5th i think would be too long.

No one??,surly someone must remember.

Allright peeps,who remembers which colour the signal wire to the rev.counter is?,the wire on the back of the multiplug,i thought it was the thin green 1 but it's not.

TIA.

I normally give the 'o'-ring a coating of WD-40 or vaseline,waterproof white grease is also a good alternative.

I don't reckon it'd be worth it,remeber that the 'new' components were'nt exactly made yesterday,they've probably been sitting on the stealers shelf for god knows how long.

I think that the only way you'll possibly see a gain would be fitting an uprated coil such as an MSD blaster,Lucas gold etc.

Right guys,here are a couple of photos of the exhaust system i made on my 2.0 turboed valver,most components were bought from Demon-tweeks such as the various bends,curves,meter long pipes etc.

The exhaust flex i got off eBay.de as well as the two Vr6 turbo center silencers.

I built the system myself working under a jacked up car,no lift,ramps ect so let me warn you if your contemplating such a job that you'll discover a new meaning to back pain,stiff shoulders etc...

It took me around 1 month to cut,measure,weld,fit,remove,re-fit,re-measure,re-fit,adjust,check,align,tighten down,re-position etc,etc.

It's not a job for first timers,lots of swearing involved but if you don't fancy coughing up 500++dollars for a ready-made item,this is what you can do...

I have not the faintest idea,all i know is that the P.S. oil level was fine and the engine was'nt running,i goes to shut the bonnet(car was being moved in garage) and found that mess.

Weird..

Just a quick word to say to be carefull if your moving your corrado with the engine off and turning the steering,mine pi$$ed out P.S. oil from the breather hole coating the bumper,engine front valance etc,not a lot but enough to make a bloody mess.

Every day something new..,put a rag over the small hole next time?.

Check the white temp. sensor's connector and small teminals,sometimes they can get dislodged,covered in oil etc.

Check the camshaft pulley's small half moon hasn't broken,make sure the chopper disk inside the dist. hasn't got bent by locating springs when turning over engine with dist. cap disconnect.

Have you checked the ecu's main connector for green corrosion?,sticking AFM arm/plate?(carb cleaner works well on gunge),injector spray pattern good?,fuel pressure up to spec.?have you tried 'hot wireing' the cold start injector?,rock-hard injector main seals leaking air?...

Let us know what happens.

I've got a bailey piston jobbie fitted to my turboed valver and it's definatly open at idle,as soon as it gets a whif of positive boost it shuts,exellent piece of hardware.

Err,oil press. switch on filter housing...oil temp sensor on oil filter housing?.

It could be loads of things,fuel pressure?,slipping charger belt,bad compressions,leak-down test been done?+comp. test with and without oil,digilag in eeprom if not SNS,throttle plates not opening up fully,slipping clutch,retarded ign. timing,cam timing out a couple of teeth,etc,etc..

Apart from the obvious difference in downpipes the VR6 Cat. is longer than the 9A valver's Cat,longer but bolts up using the same flange,9A's Cat is like the G60's version,more of a barrel shape and shorter.