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VEEDUBBED

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Posts posted by VEEDUBBED


  1. Well seeing as you've only got a supply and return it's quite simple,the G-charger's oil drain is fed back to the sump by using a short lenght of rubber pipe attached to a barb that's screwed into the engine block.

    The oil supply braided pipe is connected to a banjo bolt arrangement on the side of the cyl. head along with the black oil press. switch.


  2. Low fuel pressure under load,broken,split small rubber pipe on FPR,full load switch not engaging due to slack throttle cable,corrosion inside king lead to coil,hall sender in dist. breaking down under full load(quite common),injectors partially blocked,choked -up fuel filter,bloked air filter,plug gaps too wide with worn electrodes....


  3. Right guys,

    Does anyone know if a set of recaro 'Speed' seats will fit the corrado?,the seats are the one's found on the German eBay but i don't speak German and when i ask the various sellers in English i get no reply,ever helpfull Germans.

    I know i'll need the specific subframes but i'm worried about the seat's height.

    Thanks.


  4. ...But be carefull when/if your working in poor conditions with not much light,no room,no jack etc,etc,if you position the fuel filter too far back in it's supporting cradle you can pinch the fuel feed hose as it bends because the black feed line is clipped to the under body and sometimes won't compensate by moving so the hard nylon pipe kinks were it has the original curve just before the rubber pipe that connects to the fuel filter thus reducing the fuel feed to the filter.

    Worth checking and not making the same mistake that idiot VEEDUBBED did...


  5. Bastard of a job because you have to dismantle the bayonett connction at the base of the mirror(the part that turns through 90 degrees if bumped),it has a very strong short spring and is virtually impossible to re-install when finished.

    I had a load of spare mirrors that i tried dismanteling so i would'nt advise it.

    Do you need a spare shell?,i've got a load i don't need,just let me know if left or right,the're free if you want them.


  6. Last year when i renovated my corrado from another spare car i took out the screen and fitted the other car's screen in its place,you'll definatly need the cutting wire/handles etc to get the old glued in sreen out of the doner car without damaging/cracking the screen.

    I took out the entire dashboard as i was stripping both cars anyway,first get a blowtorch and heat up an old flat small screw driver and poke a hole through the sealent,be carefull not to scratch the black band running around the srceen's edge,insert the special cutting wire and start cutting/pulling on the handle(remember to first tie up the end of the wire to the dashboard's securing braket or similer fixed part.

    Be patient and work slowly and you'll succeed eventually,i know because i removed and glued back a total of 8 windows after breaking 1 side window and cracking a front screen through impatience...

    Be sure to get the right sealant for bonding and REMEMBER,if you manage to get the sealant on anythingother than on the black perimeter surround remove it at once,it is immpossible to remove when dried,how do i know??...


  7. Timing belt may have jumped a couple of teeth knocking off the timing,the engine would def. do that afterwards.

    Blown head gasket?,maybe but the car would still rev without problems.

    I'd first check the cam belt position first.

    It could also be water in the fule tank/lines but it's rare.


  8. Right lads,

    Are the shell bearings fitted to turbo diesel golfs.passats etc stronger than say,the bearings fitted to the g60 engines?.

    Are there any differences?,are they made of stronger material? and do the shells have small oil holes like the 2.0 9A mill's versions.

    thoughts pleeze.


  9. Well i've just bought 1 and i'm going to fit it to my dad's Daewoo matiz.

    I'll let you all know if there are any gains(VERY much needed on the matiz..).

    If it turns out to be a crock of shiyte i'm sending it back for a refund.


  10. Remember to align the cams off the head,sometimes the cam's marks SEEM to align up but when you tighten the caps down they move out of sinc.

    Watch out that you don't dislodge the half moon rubber end seals while working,i've done it a few times..,

    Check and see if the exhaust cam's oil seal is ok and get it positioned correctly within the cap and cyl.head.

    Be extra carefull when tightening down the camshaft bearing caps,the manual says 12lbs torque but i've yet to find a torque wrench capable of going that low and BEFORE re-fitting the cams check that the cam cap retaining studs in the head aren't loose,they will pull up while your re-assembling,quite annoying..

    Check that the camshaft's timing gearwheel is not put on back to front,it will go on no problem but you'll go batshiyt trying to find out why the timing belt sticks out 2mm or so in relation to the oil pump's drive cog,crank cog etc.

    Check that the stupid little half moon hasn't snapped within the camshaft sprocket,no idea why but i've come across it a few times.

    Now stop reading this long post and go and get something done. :)


  11. I can't use the Audi pistons in the 9A's engine block because the audi pistons are 81mm in diam. were as the 9A's are 82.5mm so i'm bloodywell stuck.

    Interesting you mention the noise and oil burning issue regarding the JE forged pistons,you're not the only person i've heard saying the same thing.

    How about Mahle??,don't they make forged custom jobbies??.


  12. Yeah,that was the only feasable way and being conservative with the ignition advance under boost.

    Back in the day i could never seem to locate a decent set set of Audi 20v turbo pistons,there was no eBay and very little internet pages(~'96 onwards).

    I think i'll just buy a set of forged slugs and have done,only problem is that my corrados only got 34000miles on the clock from new and the pistons are perfect as are the bores.


  13. I never had any problems with my old golf 2 16v 1800cc turbo with those mods and i had the boost pressure running at 1.7Bar using 8 injectors,big intercooler,Weber/IAW injection.

    The car was a bullit,slautering modified cosworths etc.

    The only problem i had after two years of high speed motorway work was that the ring lands started to look worn so i just changed the pistons for another set(same mods as before),original con-rods,crank oh and i fuced two gearboxs and a few wheel bearings...


  14. Right then,

    Lets take a normal Vw 2.0 9A 16v engine that has a factory CR of 10/1.

    If you take off 2mm from the piston crowns and lower the con-rod gungeon pin by another 2mm,making 4mm total what's the CR your left with??


  15. If you have to go to the trouble of fitting a toothed crank wheel why not just fit a weber/marelli injection system instead?,i did it and it wasn't terribly difficult and there are loads of advantages such as already having 2 MAP sensors('91 version Lancia delta integrale),high or low imp. injectors can be used,can't find a mapped chip?,no problem,get 1 off ebay for a sierra or escort big turbo cosworth,even the chip off an ancient Lancia delta HF 1600 turbo will be fine to 1 Bar turbo press.

    The FPR can be robbed off of loads of rusting fiats and deltas,there all the same,the throttle position sensors are fine red or black,they both work,you'll have to adapt the O/E digifart throttle butterfly unit or get the throttle body off a delta,sierra,fiat tempra,tipo 16v,alfa 164 turbo and so on.

    You'll need the crank wheel off a '91 delta intergrale 2000 turbo,that's the important bit and only that model had it fitted,the ECU is tucked into the original position were the Digifart unit was,the whole injection loom is a seperate item as is the 2wd sierra cossy.

    If you fitting the system to a KR or 9A engine there's no problem about the phase sensor because the drive dog on the marelli based dist.s are identical to the Vw Bosch unit so it bolts on,if 8v head get hold of the dist. off a red top sierra cossy and change the drive dog over,coolant temp. sensors has the same output as the 16v jobbie,coil wise you can use either the G60's green lable or the dry L.delta,croma.alfa type.

    I make it sound a bit too easy but if you've got the skill to fit standalone(expensive) or use scrapyard parts(Cheaper) and achieve nearly the same results i say go for it.

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