VEEDUBBED

Smash the foccer off with a hammer and chisel.

I don't no Yan,i get most of my parts from my mate's car breakers,luckly he had a S2 in and i noticed it by accident while removing the wastegate,i'll get the number stamped on the body then you can check.

I'm waiting for a roll of grafite exhaust rap to arrive for myturbo downpipe,i ordered mine from Demontweeks whoose service IMO is second to none,highly recommended.

Hey Miguel,i tried to go onto your website but for some strange reason it only downloads the initial page with the corrado then nothing??,the other mani. is made by 'Turbocar' up in Bologna,no way you can fit a flange,there's just no room on it or any flat edges to work off.

I'm using the 2.5inch cosworth pipes 'cos i only paid 15euro for them!!,the 3 inch pipe should be here soon which cost a bit more..

Very good info. Yanards,1 other thing you could use like i did is the coolant sensor housing off the Audi S2 20V 5 cyl turbo,it's located behind the head near the knock sensors and other multi plugs,it houses an identical sensor to the blue g60's version,possibly easier to get hold of that the other piece and will leave you more room around that crowded part of the cyl.head.

I can say after having built and run for a year a 2.0 9A 16v engine and G-charger that stacking 2 'ABF' headgaskets worked perfectly for me,just remember to use new headbolts or ideally use an ARP or raceware stud and nut kit,no leaks,no boost press. loss,oil leaks...nothing.

Aha!,Lowg has finally posted,i've been meaning to get in contact with you for ages mate!,well i decided to use the Audi manifold because i had a spare audi external 'gate sitting around idle,your right about the manifold though the buggers crack like mad and i think the primary pipes are too small diameter wise,no problem as if i'm not satisfied with it i'll rip it all out and use my other exellent quality 16v.turbo mani i've got spare,only problem is that it's for an internal 'gate and slaps the turbo right over the engine mount...

The 2 and a half inch exhaust is only on the car temp. as i'm waiting for a 3inch cosworth downpipe to arrive,fitting that is going to be a real challenge..

LowG,i'm going to be needing a set of 82.5mm 2.0 9A forged pistons and poss. a ball bearing Garret turbo for this motor,PM me with any info and availability,prices etc.

Great to see your company is growing,cheers,Andrew.

Flusted,depends what you need because that set-up photoed was made up with spare 8v.tensioners,g60 pulleys,Audi 80 bottom pulley for p.s pump etc.

Tell me what you need and i'll see.

Corrado_16,i'll snap a photo of my exhaust cam that's still installed on that engine,flusteds right though,i had to time and work out werte to weld the timing sprocket on right but following the pictures i found on Vwvortex i did it.

Right,i managed to get a couple of photos today of the turbo installed with w.gate and some of the exhaust downpipe.

Now i'm waiting for a roll of grafiteexhaust rap,a few new gaskets for the inlets and the chopped inlet spacer that will give clearance to the inlet manifold.As i go along i'll snap a few more photos.

2 ABV metal headgaskets when i had the charger,worked with no problems at all,this time i'm spending coin on forged pistons,ARP or Raceware stud and nuts,i've already got a spare exhaust cam as inlet fitted along with a large Bosch fuel pump fitted and a set of 575cc Bosch injectors.

Maybe standalone management in place of the Digi-1 set-up and def. a wide band lambda sensor.

I'll get some photos tommorow and post them up.

I just rememberd another important thing,if you decide to use a Garret turbo remember that the turbine housing's flang will have to be modded because the Audi manifold has a different shape attachment,basicly you elongate the garret's mounting holes to match the Audi's KKK pattern studs.

If using a KKK turbo it will bolt right up no problem.

A KKK 26 is a good turbo to use if you can get the watercooled version,the oil cooled version is ok but less reliable in the long run.

Also try and obtain a .63 trim exhaust turbine housing thats not cracked,which won't be easy..

You may find a good one off a Ford escort T3/4 cosworth which also has a handy tapping for the ox. sensor.

Right then,after starving my G-charger of oil i decided to re-fit my Garret T3/4 instead and also because i just hate the G-charger's constant whine.

I'm using a manifold off an audi S2 20v 5 cyl motor which i got off Ebay cheap,be carefull though as they are prone to cracking all over.

I like the idea of an ext. wastegate because it's simple to adjust,unlike my old set-up that ran an internal gate that was impossible to adjust(and flutterd like mad loosing boost) without jacking the car up.

The manifold fits perfect ly,the problem is the wastegate that hits the back of the O/E 16v inlet manifold,not by alot but enough to make the mani.unable to bolt to the cyl. head.You could get a shorty manifold made(expensive) or do like me and chop up a spare bottom inlet manifold piece and use it as a spacer.

Exhaust down pipe is a bastid to make because the gearchang rods get in the way if you make a 90 degree bend so you'll have to copy my exhaust which i'll take photos of and post up.

I have'nt worked out a way to feed the wastegate back into the main downpipe yet,not much space.

Remember also that the downpipe if 2.5 inch or more will butt up against the ABS motor so rap the downpipe with exhaust heat rap and seal with silicone spray.

One other thing regards the fitting and dismanteling of the turbo for repair etc,inorder to remove the unit as a whole you'll have to use a spare sissor jack jammed in between the block just above the engine mount and bulkhead,this enables you to remove the unit as a compleat unit otherwise the exhaust mani. studs dont clear the turbo manifold's flange while your bending over breaking your back and struggling to remove the thing you'll see why...it's immpossible to do other wise,especially if using turbos such as Garret T3/4's,kkk 26,7's,T4 etc as the turbo slams against the firewall due to having a bigger compressor compared to a normal Garret T3,T25 etc which may come out with out the need for the jack.

Remember also to use 13mm high grade turbo nuts inplace of the crap VW 12mm versions.

I'll post up as i carry on with the job and let you all know if there are any other hitchs,cheers,Andrew.

Good damm question,i've got the charger sitting on the garage floor,bone dry inside the oil ways in and outlets and no oil on the floor(it's been standing 4 days with the oil inlet facing down).

I'm lucky that i'm in the process of re-fitting my turbocharger in place of the G-charger so i don't need it and i've got another spare charger aswell, question that springs to mind is how come the bearings did'nt seize???

Waste of a perfect G-charger AND my fault...

Exellent Potato,strange thing that you mention the Passat TDI has a 2.5Bar absolute sensor because i was fiddling around with an '94 Vw golf 3 tdi's ECU the other day and the dam thing only had a Bosch 2 bar sensor fitted,identical to the G60's version!...go figure..

Did you replace the FPR's rubber o-ring when the injector rail was already dismanteled from the head?,i remember that it was a nightmare trying to replace the retaining hex bolts with the rail attached,probably pinched the o-ring.

Use some WD-40 to lubricate the rings before re-assembly.

cheers,Andrew.

Polo classic,cheers mate,much appriciated.

I'm running a Garret T3/4 turbo again with an audi ext. wastegate in place of the G-charger,i used to run 1.8bar boost press. on my old golf 16valver turbo but that was using weber.marelli/IAW injection custom fitted,8 injectors,cosworth type extra injector loom,Pectal board,2 Map sensors etc.

I want to try and keep the g60's Digi 1 system because it has an ox. sensor and is O/E Vw,something very important here as any modifications carried out are not allowed and involve heavy fines if the bill pull me and open the bonnet...

Polo classic,cheers mate,much appriciated.

Basicly yeah i'm running a Garret T3/4 turbo again with an audi ext. wastegate in place of the G-charger,i used to run 1.8bar boost press. on my old golf 16valver turbo but that was using weber.marelli/IAW injection custom fitted,8 injectors,2 Map sensors etc.

I want to try and keep the g60's Digi 1 system because it has an ox. sensor and is O/E Vw,something very important here as any modifications carried out are not allowed and involve heavy fines...

Right peeps this tops it all,around three months ago i was repairing my G60 charged 2.0 valver 'cos an oil press. switch was leaking,the white 1 on top of the oil filter housing.

I've been using the car ever since untill recently when me and my dad,who also uses my car alot,noticed that the car's preformance was'nt like before,it had lost it's edge and was slightly noisier.

Yes peeps,you've guessed it!!,VEEDUBBED had forgotton to re-attach the fuc%ing charger's oil supply line and have run like it ever since...

How the hell the charger did'nt sieze is beyond me,the boost press. is also 0.6 Bar,like always and looking inside the charger from the exit side i can see a light film of clean engine oil coating the insides!!.

Sods law i suppose,people suffer the cost of broken cog belts,exploding displacers,cracked housings etc,i starve the thing of oil for months and the BLOODY thing STILL works.

Right peeps,who has installed a 3 Bar map sensor into the O/E Digifart 1 ECU?,like the 1's advertised on ebay for Calibra turbos and the like.

Will the sensor work with a stg5 SNS chip?,how does 1 fit the thing?,solder it?,does it fit within the housing?.

Any info helpfull,thanks.

fireing order=1342.

Don't worry about fuel being under pressure unless you've turned on the ign. and primed the system.

When you disconnect the injectors a bit of fuel will spill out so just bung some old rags under the injectors.

Watch out when you get different injectors,always remember that digifart1 needs high imp. injectors,fit low imp 1's and the ECU's injector drivers will fry instantly,how do i know?...

No,it's the timing gear end,no.4 cyl is at the flw. end.

Probably rock hard and brittle,i would'nt bother with the stealers for the 'O'-rings,places like burlen fuel components should stock them if not try your local fuel injection specialist or Bosch center,maybe even halfords??.

When you re-install the inlet mani. grab an old wing mirror and place it on top of the brake lines heat insulation,that way you can at least see most off the fixing bolts by shining a lamp down there,carefull as the bolts are different lengths aswell.

While your there i rekon it wise to also change the fuel injector's sealing rubber 'O'-rings,just pull hard on the fuel rail to release the injectors then when re-fitting put some rubber grease on the new 'O'-rings and re-assemble.

Usual stuff,check fuel press,change fuel filter,check all engine earths(very important),check lambda probe's wiring if brittle,check probe to see output,serviced?,CAT might have imploded partially blocking exhaust gas,dodgy hyd.tappets were they sometimes remain slightly open due to old,dirty engine oil.

Also check the in-tank fuel pump's strainer for muck,sludge etc,could be water in fuel,plugs ok?,corroded ECU harness conections,partially blocked fuel injectors,injector harness insulation has cracked and is shorting out....

15+year old motors mate...