VEEDUBBED

SNS.5 eeprom aswell,these chips are just the best, period.

Just getting rid of that ridiculous Digi-lag transformes the car's caracter IMO.

Buy 1 and you won't look back.

Need an oil line for the turbo?,don't fancy building a custom job?,do like i did and use a spare fuel line off a KR engined valver's fuel dist. unit,you'll need the longest line that starts from the metering head and goes to the fuel regulator that's bolted near the cyl. head.

I've had mine on for over a month now with no problems,only thing you'll have to do is drill out the smaller banjo fitting if using Garret blowers.KKK,holset,IHI could be different,check first.

The banjo bolts used to secure the fuel metering pipes have the same thread as Garret turbos so you can use those.

Gareth,PM sent.

The only tricky bit are those bloody 17mm nuts holding it on to the ex. mani.,grab a long extension and 2 universal joints and you should be ok,check the gasket's intact aswell and put some copperease on the threads before re-fitting.

Thanks adie,i too have a few flex joints the same measurment as yours,it's def. got to be a 74mm 3inch jobbie,thanks again.

Sorry if OT but is you crasher from Preformance golf magazine?,i used to sometimes be able to locate that mag here in Rome and,if i'm not mistaken,you used to write 'Crashers corner'??,exellent write-ups with good tech. info.

I don't suppose you have any old mags you wanna get rid of?...

Thanks joe,i just emailed the company.

First,happy new year everyone!,second,does anyone know were i can get a 3inch exhaust flex from?,i need 1 for my engine's front downpipe.

And yes i know that i can get 1 from america,BBM,ATP etc but postage is absurd...,thankz.

9A 2.0 valver downpipe def. fits to G60 8v ex. mani.,i had to fit 1 when i had the 16v-G60 engine in.

Pop down to your local scrappy and check if maybe they have another car with an airflow meter like the ABV's Vr6 1,cut off or just remove the corroded small terminals using a watch repairer screw driver and show the breaker your car's plug,probably even get 1 for free or pence..

Not absolutly nessesary but adding ARP or raceware headstuds gives peice of mind.

I've got a few tips for anyone contemplating a possible turbo setup:

For manic acceleration but fu#k all top end go for a T3Garret turbo with a .36 A/R exhaust turbine,for top end try a .48 or a .63 one.

when using the 20v Audi 5cyl ex. manifold be carefull because the turbo will be smacked up against the bulkhead if using a .60 A/R Garret T3/4,normal T3's with .42 A/R's are fine,also,if your car's fitted with ABS remember to carefully measure the turbo's downpipe to avoid the pipe rubbing on the ABS's heat sheild.

Oil drains have to be made so that the drive shaft does'nt interfere on full bump travel,sumps are drilled just below the sumps mounting bolts flange,if your unsure just unbolt the sump and add 4 litres of water to see were the drainpoint should be without draining into the engine oil.

Coolant lines can be taken from the O/E oil cooler's water pipes and feed back to turbo,this entails fitting an aftermarket oil cooler such as the Volvo 740 turbos or earlier golf gti's jobbie,if not use the heater's pipes.

Adding 2 'ABF' headgaskets is a good idea witch i personally did a 2.0 9A G60 valver and 2 turbo 16valvers with no problems.

I recommend ebay for nearly all the stuff your going to need,manifold,turbo,injectors,chips and so on,i have yet to receive a faulty component exept for the 5cyl turbo exhaust manifold that had a few small cracks,but they welded up easily.

Hope this info. helps and if you get stuck just post up on the forum because someone,somewere has already done what your going to do and knows the pitfalls.

The two upper screw mounting brakets intafear with removal,they jam against the top of the glove box,even worse on A/C equipped cars.

Don't apply too much force otherwise you could rip out the small brakets,wriggle the box slowly side to side and try and pop the bottom part of the glove box first.

When reasembling,put a smear of grease on the now evident grooves scarred into the top of the glove box caused by the small brakets,much easier next time...

A quick word of thanks to miguel,alias Low-g for sending me a set of ARP headstuds,highly recommended chap and first rate service,cheers.

I've finished for the third time that bloody job,apart from the obvious things that you all know be carefull if your ride has A/C because it's possible, if working without help like me,that while trying to reinsert the whole heater and a/c block back into the dash the round plastic solonoid that controls the bottom heater flap can get caught on part of the metal bracket that potrudes from the dash,near the ign.switch.

Watch out that the small plastic nipple does'nt catch on that bracket otherwise pop goes the fu@#ing weasle and your left with a broken solonoid.

Luckly i had a spare A/C block,non A/C cars don't have these problems 'cos the heater is half the size compared and is not fitted with that badly placed item.

1 last thing,you could maybe remove the heater unit's matrix without dismanteling the entire dash,it's going to be impossible to try that on 'raddos fitted with A/C,don't even think about trying it with the dash in place...

I had the same problems as you mate,no welding gear for aluminium,crap welders who charged the earth to fabricate 1 out of old valver inlets.

I bought 1 off ebay.de for 260 euro,brand new and almost like the Audi S2 version.

There was a moddied S2 version on the bay a few days ago with a 'buy it now' price of 280euro,looked ok,have a look and see.

Right guys i've got a strange problem.

I've finished the turbo on my corrado but i've only got 0.4 boost pressure showing on the boost gauge,i've checked the obvious such as pipe leaks,burst hoses,loose clamps etc.

My cars fitted with a garret T3/4 .60.48 turbo which is well man enough to spit out 2 Bar if needed,and as it was running 1.5bar constant on my old Golf valver i know it's ok.

I've pressure tested the inlet tract and found no leaks,i've also sprayed shaving foam around my adapted manifold joints,injector 'o'-rings,nothing.

The engine's idle is rock steady,it pulls no problem to 0.4Bar but that's it.

I'm even running with the Audi external wastegate's boost pipe disconnected so in theory it should boost into oblivion,nope,still 0.4Bar.

Baily diaphram dump valve works fine,by the way,when trying to adjust the wastegate by using it's small allen key screw nothing happens.

Turbine blades are all fine,as are the comp. side blades,air filter's fine,brand new and huge(500+ BHP..),exhaust pipe diameter is 2/3,4 inch jobbie BUT i'm having to run the O/E 16v exhaust system because if i get pulled you know...

I don't think it's the exhaust getting choked up because i was running it when it was a G60-16v and the comp. still put out 0.7Bar boost.

Lastly,i've got a modded KR exhaust cam fitted but as before it's been fitted since it was supercharged.

Sorry for the long post guys but i'm stumped,any suggestions are most welcome.

Happend to me yesterday while parked,all white steam inside engine bay,water pouring out from under the car...

Turns out that the plastic inlet pipe to matrix snapped clean off,i've done this job by the roadside before by stripping all the dash out,now i'm gonna try this method,however,my ride's now turbocharged again AND has an Audi ext.wastegate so re-finding those horrid 10mm nuts is going to be challenging...

Dizzy caps are all the same,8v,16v etc.

Check that the injector harness is'nt cracked and falling to bits allowing the wires to short.

FPR short rubber hose cracked,holed etc,check the dist's connector is ok,fuel press. ok?,cracked lambda probe wiring?,engine earths all clean and tight?,ECU's connector pins corroded?.

Def. change the CTS with an O/E one and G60s do have two micro switchs,1 idle contact and 1 full throttle.

Drown the ISV in carb cleaner untill clean,check that the idle switch isn't sticking shut aswell.

What chip are you running?,'cos it also sounds like your classic bloody digi-lag which i personally hate,why the hell Vw put such a program into their eeproms beats me..

I feel for you my friend..,if you were located a little closer i'd have given you a free 'raddo shell.

Oil jets failed open??,that's a new 1,i thought those little buggers sprayed oil all the time??

While your in there add the sump baffle fitted to older golfs,very good and has rubber gaskets both sides,unlike the shiyte affair fitted to 2.0 9A valvers,g60s etc.

Don't forget to coat the new gasket with copperease grease that way when you need to remove the sump it will drop off no problem and can be re-used.

The pulley on the crank can fit on in 4 different positions,there's a small raised dimple on the cranksproket that has to ingauge with the small hole on the pulley otherwise it will wobble,go and double check as this may be the problem.

I've got about 3 spare PG and KR valver crankshafts i'm binning,you interested?,only problem is that i'm based in Rome...

And they are all perfect,never broke a crank bolt on all my engines.

Rado.001,62 GBP including postage to Italy by the way,if you buy the Cooltek black grafite wrap you don't need the protective spray,that's what the demon tweeks catalog states anyway...

9A valvers don't have 1.