Supercharged

At that mileage it's a good part to change mate if it is original! You won't have got 2 faulty VAG fan switches btw, either the rad is never getting hot enough or you have a wiring issue ...

2 for the front caliper and 2 for the rear... the other 2 (female/female) are for the rear beam

Hello, it depends on the year / chassis number of the car, early ones were both female on the flexi... Have a look on ETKA or the VW spare site for the pics and lengths etc...

M10x 1mm is correct. You're best getting new union nuts from VW as they have this black coating that is corrosion resistant. You can also use the later (mk3) flexi line to go straight into the caliper if you like.

Welcome to the forum.... Not a huge amount I'm afraid, a load proper G60 XXX ones went for £249 from the DVLA a few years ago and these are maybe worth £500ish now... It's illegal to space yours G60 XX so maybe £2-300 max... always depends what people are willing to pay at the time though so maybe ask £330 inc the transfer fee and take offers around this price?

Rubbish... I currently have one on my coffee table :lol:

You have the 3 bolts for the bottom ball joint which affect camber so you need it alligned ideally. Best to get genuine VAG wishbones and balljoint for both sides, along with new bolts etc - pattern ones come with crap bushes that only last a couple of years.

And did they use the correct grease on the release bearing... Take it back to the garage, as Jim said Corrado clutches last ages and ages.

Not quite that simple though mate - Battery must be good and engine must to be up to temp, Coil pack unplugged (or king lead) and fuel pump relay removed (or plug for injector rail)- when cranking the clutch needs to be depressed (as it should always be when starting up) and throttle needs to be wide open - this makes a huge difference to the accuracy of the figures and you should repeat the test at least once to validate the results.

Yep, deffo get a VAG one, will last another 10 years..

Yes mate - they work a treat, even on brand new and perfectly round bolts... amazing tools! I've personally never had to use them of the rear carrier bolts, I've just used a method similar to Toads above with an allen socket but I have seen some really rusty ones on some cars probably due to garages not replacing these bolts when doing a disc change.

People are always asking where to get these so I thought I'd put a link in here.... Machine Mart sell these and Screwfix usually have stock at the trade counters but Amazon are currently selling these cheaper than anywhere inc free delivery At £19.53 for the base set and £6.98 for the expansion set (fills the gaps in the base set and fits in the same box) these are probably the best and most worthwhile tools you will ever purchase, they pay for themselves almost every time you use them with the time they save. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip ... B0000CCXVZ http://www.amazon.co.uk/IRWIN-Piece-Exp ... B0002YVUM6

Even easier if you give the dealer parts dept your key code - they can then work out the tumbler arrangement from the key catalogue... I think I've got 4 or 5 brand new barrels each with 2 keys from buying new door handles over the years - never understood why they came with them as they are so easy to swap over for the old ones. Ignition barrel needs drilling out but the door handles are easy, what are the boot and glove box like to do Kev?

Are you sure that's right!?! I would have thought any split boot would be a failure... something that needs attention anyway! I think there should also be a plastic shield to protect it that also looks like it's missing.

Believe it or not Carps used 'Karmann Shipping' for his!

Yeah this is it, he hasn't really driven many others and I could feel how tight it was just sitting in the back on the test drive, I would have been a good buy for £4k in my opinion but for £2k it's a real bargain! Like Neil says the car is rust and dent free, It drives and handles well with the Koni's, engine is quiet and smooth and pulls well, leather and interior in good condition as are the electrics + refurbed solitudes and the R888's - superb! Neil also has an R32 MKV and I think his reaction to driving the VR6 goes to show how good a drivers car the Corrado still is! Your right about the tyres too, I hate Toyo's but am tempted to dry a set of these, unbelievable grip but not sure i'd like to try them in the wet! Bit noisey too and sounds like you're on a bus! Did you think they were a bit wide in 205mm profile Kev? seemed to stick out a bit on the Solitudes and not sure what that does to the sidewalls under cornering - think i'd buy 195's for standard wheels and they are much cheaper too.

That's front passat, all Corrado ones are 535 specific. Will probably work with the matching mech

Yeah it might be part of the joint then I reckon... as Dave says try taking it to GSF

Ok, well hopefully this will help - it's a multipage TIF file from ETKA, you need to use Microsoft Document Imaging to view...

I'm fairly sure he needs a new joint but has he checked with his local VW dealer? just incase it's a seperate part... What's the engine code? Manual / Fr Wheel drive I assume...

Great pic! Got to love Aqua Blue 8)

You'll struggle to make more than a couple of grand a week selling weed mate... you need to be thinking cocaine or heroine (Tom VR6 has the UK market on Crystal Meth covered) Do you need to borrow one of my crackwhores while you get your chains done?

Back in the day they were, as were the Golf VR6's - that badge was a status symbol That's not been true for the last 10 years though...

MFA 1 1. Engine code 2. Country code 3. Speedometer Signal 4. Upper Rev Limit 5. Lower Rev Limit 6. Deceleration Fuel Pressure 7. Display test MFA 2 1. Test programme 2. Boost Pressure 3. Rev Counter 4. Fuel Consumption 5. Speed Signal 6. Oil Temp 7. Ambient Temp

I assumed he's cleaned it Yan but good point, deffo check the oil feed and return are not blocked.