Supercharged

It was an option but only dealer fit as above...

new stub axle needed...

what car have you got???

I didn't think the mk4's were exchange anymore as all they were getting back was the old mk2/3 ones that were no use... I bought mine from C&R at GTi inters 2 /3 years ago and they weren't then, also I'm sure people have got from GSF recently and not had to pay a surcharge - try VW... Also MK4 calipers do fail like any other, they are just less prone to handbrake mech seizure - this is why I'd stay away from second hand ones unless they are very low mileage and havn't been sitting in a yard for over year with old fluid in them...

Holy Thread Resurection, Batman!

HTRB!

Original springs willc ost a fortune from the dealer - cheaper to buy a set of H&R's

Problem with the front bearings is the hubs need to come off so the bearings can be pressed in... Rear beam bushes - you will most likely need a new brake compensator valve too as these usually need to be but off with an air saw....

Prices are for a set of 4 - GSF only sell the standard FR's I think... (I didn't realise there were different compounds)

FR's are about £30 from GSF, OEM ones are abou £37

Shaggsy, what car do you have??

I think it should be just above the main fusebox but we didn't get these on UK cars...

Last ones were on a K...

Thats the starter solenoid sticking....

VW ones are a couple of quid more but I've never had a faulty one from them - I have had 2 out of 3 dead ones from GSF tho and the 3rd only lasted a year or so... Also check the state of your coolant - use of hard water can kill sensors (but not that quickly)

Yeah - looks fairly tidy! Why do you have to sell - insurance??

Exactly - I think we should re-launch the east anglian meets when the weather gets a bit better and hopefully this beast may be ready by then!

You can but you need the nut to go with them too...

Welcome to the forum! The fan should run on as well as the fuel pump when the engine is switched off so don't worry about that for now... So it appears to be running hot and leaking coolant... look for signs of a leak first (white stains on the block and pipes etc) if you can't find anything then it may be an idea to change the expansion tank cap (new ones are blue so if yours is black then chances are its the original one - this includes a valve that can seize up with age) It may just be running hot because the system is not closed or it could be the guage sender getting old (they tend to over-read with age) so I wouldn't worry too much for now... You need to look at how it heats up from cold and try to determine is the thermostat is opening ok, this happens at 80 degrees and lets water into the rad - the bottom pipe should then get hot, eventually if left stationary the rad fan should kick in at about 95 to try to keep the temp around the halfway mark, if this goes higher before it comes on (110) then the first stage if the fan thermoswich is duff and a new one is required (cheap and easy to change) Have a look and let us know what you find...

Yeah, I'm impressed!

flusted, I've got a spare lupo arm (not the drivers side used on the C conversion tho - the other side) that you could use to make a single one up...

Your looking for 3 letters and 5 numbers... The 3 letters just denote different types of that box for different years, engines, countries with different ratios etc... The numbers are basically a build number so you can order parts depending on the numbers....

Not quite - brake cleaner is said to be more abrasive, thats why you shouldn't clean a carb or fuel injection system with it but the other way round would be ok...

Christ - I can't even remember posting that... let alone who I was speaking too...

LOL - I didn't write that by the way!!