HVB G60

Can't say I agree with you. On my old engine I had only minor (rather cheap) mods and it produced 220bhp and 240lb/ft. Don't mind the strange dip below 2700rpm, this was just a quick run to determine the peak values. 1.8 hydro 8v G60, no modifications to the PG block (which had 190k on it!) 1.4bar maximum boost, flowed charger, 65mm pulley driven by a cogged belt Golf G60 FMIC Standard head, 268/276 Schrick cam Standard exhaust manifold, Supersprint exhaust Digi1 management, grey 310ccm injectors with SLS RS-chip Surely with a custom mapped chip there would have been somewhat more in it, but this was just for the time being. My new build engine will be mapped within the next month or so. :twisted:

I don't see it in the GB-section.. :)

I'm sure the rest of the world would be more than willing to buy LHD-versions. I don't know if I would like one for the center or the left-vent best, I would buy either one of them, and both of them if you decide to make them. :D

Just get some decent ones and you do get the deflectors. They check for that very thorough during what the Dutch call 'APK' (I believe it's called MOT in the UK?) and they didn't have any problems with the beam pattern that my HID's where producing.

The xenons barely produce any heat, there's no issue in that area. Just mount them and enjoy!

Thanks G-man. I already thought he must have done it through redrilling an original Ibi disc, otherwise they simply don't clear enough. Thanks mate!

I would be very greatful if you could find me a picture, or perhaps even get me the contact details for the owner, so that I can get the specs for the brake setup.

Unfortunately they don't list the RS's anywhere. Anyone who has actually tried this combination and can tell me first-hand if they fit or not?

I've bought a brand new set of BBS RS301's, for me they're the ultimate rim for a classic like the Corrado, so I won't be changing to any other set. They'll be mounted after the winter, for now I'll be using my old rims. For now I've got a set of 312mm TT-brakes. The performance is sufficient, although they feel a little vague when it comes to when they are about to lock-up the wheel. And obviously they can't match the looks of the Brembo calipers. I'll still be using the TT-discs. My question is simple; will I be able to fit the Brembo GT Junior (the ones from the Ibiza Cupra) behind these wheels? I know there are a lot of people on this forum who drive those wheels, so there probably are some people able to tell if I can mount them in combination with these calipers.

You can order thermostats that open at a higher temperature. I've got a 80 degrees fitted in mine, where the standard one starts opening at 74. Now I can clearly see the temperature gets up to 76-78 rather quickly, and after that it needs a while longer for the temperature to rise above that level. But at that point you can give a little bit of boost and rev the engine somewhat higher than 3000rpm, so that the temperature will rise.

I'm experiencing the same problem ATM. I'll have a quick look at it tomorrow, hope to find something, as it's getting annoying. Especially since I don't know if it's anything serious or not.. :(

I had my belt fail on me two years ago, after only 5000km's of use. It's a set from SLS, where the pulleys are made of steel. Basicly this isn't a bad thing, as aluminium pulleys will wear rather quickly and will potentially cause problems in the future. The real issue is weight, as they didn't remove much of the unneeded material on the pulleys, because of which they are unnecessary heavy. After I took the engine out and had it tuned, the shop where I took my engine also redesigned the pulleys so that hopefully the belt won't break as easily. First of all, they lightened them a fair bit, by removing material where it isn't needed. I can't remember how much they removed exactly, but it was more than 2,5kg's! I have it written down somewhere at home. Besides the fact that it speeds up the pick-up of the engine, it also reduces the stress on the belt when you shift. I don't know what set you're driving. But always replace the damper that attaches to the triangle with the plastic wheel (I don't know what to call it in English :)) by a fixed one. Otherwise the belt will be stressed very much when you release the throttle. On the SLS-set they use a timing belt wheel to guide the belt. This is a bad idea, as the belt wasn't designed to be guided by that type of sidewall and will get damaged. I had a custom wheel made, without sidewalls. In my case the belt gets guided by the pulleys from the g-lader and dynamo, the sidewalls of those pulleys are suitable to guide the belt without causing excessive wear. The last thing is to make sure you've got all the pulleys alligned, so that the belt stays in one place all the time. Up until now the belt is holding up very well. But I'm still in the process of breaking in my new engine. But still, with the old setup, damage to the belt was already visible. With 500km's on the new belt, it still looks like new.

Did you check your FPR? These things fail sometimes, causing all kinds of problems, one of those being that your engine gets way too much fuel.

Tezet also makes nice manifolds. Somewhat more expensive than Supersprint, but the welding and materials used is superb. When it comes to bhp gains it beats the Supersprint also, since it's a 4-1 (which gives you more bhp) and the Supersprint is a 4-2-1 (that works best for gaining torque in the lower revs).

I must say I'm surprised by those figures, in a positive way. I was rather sceptic at first, as you'll probably remember. But these figures have shown that the original airbox still has some reserves left to supply some more air on this kind of setup.

Over here in Holland quite a lot of people run KW coilovers, for one part because there were some interesting offers on them in the past. But they actually are quite good. Not much H&R over here. I run the KW var1 myself and I'm very satisfied with it. The combination between the springrate and the dampers is good. Although I must admit that the right is rather hard. Not at all what I would describe as "near original". Var2 at its smoothest setting is said to be not much smoother than the var1... Stay away from FK. That's all I have to say as far as that goes. There is a groupbuy on the Dutch forum for AST coilovers. Maybe that's an interesting option also? These guys have been involved with racing for over 30 years. They're offering a 22mm kit (like most other dampers on the market) or a 45mm rod. However, if you're looking for a coilover that does preserve the comfortable ride, than have a look at the Bilstein PSS9. It doesn't go that low (only -5cm or so), but you can adjust the dampingsettings to your own liking, from rather smooth to rather harsh.

There isn't a sensor in there that actually counts revs. The rev counter is connected to the hall-sensor, hence it will see either 4 or 6 pulses per revolution. So yes, it does matter wether you mount a 4-cil or a 6-cil cluster...

Wow these gauges look awesome, good job! Could anybody please post some sort of “walk-through” on how to design those gauges with Photoshop? I know how to do some of the basic stuff, but I haven’t figured out yet how to make the round dials and make sure everything matches the position it is in the original dial face. I’m sure they don’t just move the stripes and numbers around until they somehow match. ;)

Thanks guys! :roll:

Could someone please explain what I'm doing wrong when posting this picture? Is it the weird way the URL is constructed or am I just missing something here? :oops:

Here's my interior, I've had them redone in fresh leather last year. [edit]Placed the pictures on another server, now the links do work! :D[/edit]

Check your afterrun sensor, it's on the left side of the engine, right in front of the intake manifold with one single wire connected to it. Unplug the wire, if your fan shuts down, the sensor is down the drain, if it keeps on going, you have a problem in the wire leading to the sensor...

For future reference in case somebody needs it: I've had the brake lines custom made, total length is 45cm's (end of connections). The connectors are just straight connections, no bend what so ever.

Don't think so either, I'll just need the measurements from somebody. :)

I already have braided hoses in the back, so buying a whole set of hoses would be kind of silly. And having those braided hoses custom made costs about the same as buying new OEM-ones from the dealership, so that's not worth much of a debate either.