Henny

you can't build an engine like Berno's (or mine for that matter) without some problems along the way... more so if you buy it like Berno did and don't entirely know what's inside the engine as you didn't spec it, but bought it as is...

At least this time around I'll know EXACTLY what's in my engine having identified the pistons and I'll have identified the crank too...

I'm just soooooo glad I didn't post up the for sale thread I was writing which had all my other good engine bits on it.... I'd never have been able to replace some of the bits I've got for her... :eek:

it's like a normal sump, but a bit more confused... :norty: :nuts:

Sorry, couldn't resist... :roll:

it's like a normal sump, only it has some raised areas in the bottom of it to stop the oil "sloshing" around side to side under heavy cornering which cause oil starvation with a normal sump...

The shrick one is a little better again as it's slightly bigger capacity than a normal sump allowing you to use more engine oil in the engine... it's also made of alloy and finned on the outside which adds a small amount of air cooling to the sump keeping your oil a little cooler...

I've attached a photo which I've shamelessly ripped off the G-Werks site so you can see the raised "barriers" within the sump... :norty:

I run 7.5 x 16 ET 40 all around with 11mm spacers... this leaves me with the wheel just inside the lip of the wheel arch both front and back (effectively ET29) on my early bodied G60...

With an ET37 and the same width wheel, you'll be looking at either 8mm if yours is an early car to guarantee that your wheels don't foul the arches, or around 16mm if yours is a late one (there's around 8mm difference between early and late front wings...) 8)

dirtytorque, nah, if I run it with a standard head, I'll have to do ANOTHER head gasket change, sourcing MORE 1H head bolts when I get the cash together to put another CNC head back on again... :roll: I'll just save up and do it all in one hit... and a few other tweaks while I'm in there... :ignore: although I'm seriously considering rebuilding the PG block that was in my Corrado originally into a 1940cc lump and using that to build my new madder engine around... :wink: :cuckoo: Thankfully I've only sold the top end of the engine (head, inlet, throttle, cam, FPR, fuel rail and injectors and the gearbox... although the gearbox was going to be sold to make way for something new anyway, so that's no biggie, I've just got to source funds for another CNC head, cam, injectors etc... :roll:

pete_griff, yup, it had all new springs, valves ('cos they were bigger!) guides and seals when it was done by CNC heads... The problem is that standard springs were used as they didn't know which cam I was going to use (neither did I at the time I paid for and picked up the head!) and they've been compressed to far, causing one to fail and the rest to become squished... Don't forget, this cam isn't just high lift, I had to have the head machined to clear the cam! it's a 1/2" lift on the cam!

There was no rattling, or any sign that anything was wrong, right up until it lost power, started miss-firing and the lotus finally got past me... :roll: :norty: :lol:

Supercharged, the CNC head quality isn't the problem... as above, it was the lift of the Newman cam that did for the springs... Mine looked very clean when Paul (Berno on Dubforce) picked it up... a little grubby, but certainly no corrosion... Compared to his RacePower "big valve" head, the CNC head was in a totally different league... the valves were considerably bigger on the CNC head and the ports were HUUUAAAAGGGEEE in comparison... the RacePower head looked like it hadn't had anything done to it by comparison!

I really had put it down to the block being dodgy and having let the tension off the bolts again causing the head gasket to go... So it really was a very bitter-sweet conversation with the heads' new owner yesterday as he revealed what was wrong... Thankfully, he's taken it very well and it's not damaged anything on his engine, so he's just going to replace the springs with some uprated ones and then get the car mapped... it's going to be a complete monster... you could really call it a Frankenstein engine as it's the bottom end of Blue_Joe's (Sam) 2031cc engine that was built by Racepower and the CNC head, Newman cam, redtops and CNC inlet manifold off my engine coupled with a G-werks big bore 4branch (something that Sam, Paul - the new owner, and I had not yet gotten around to fitting to our engines) so this thing won't just breath well, it'll be unreal! 8)

I'd agree with D-Pete about the hub-centric spacers... so much so I run 11mm hub-centric ones on my Corrado which I had custom machined to fit the 40 offset wheels I use! :lol:

Do the wheels you use have spiggot rings fitted, or do they just fit straight onto the Corrado hub as the standard wheels did?

If they use spiggot rings, you can get some spacers machined up pretty cheaply (I think mine cost about £20 per spacer) to any thickness you require... ;)

(A spiggot ring is a small, usually plastic, spacer ring which sits inside the center hub of the wheel so that the wheel can be used on multiple different vehicles with different hub sizes simply by changing the spiggot rings)

right, now I've found out that my engine problems were all caused by valve springs ( :brickwall: ) I'm going to start a full rebuild on this sucker... I may even base it on the original PG block that came out of the car in the first place to make life a little easier (and cheaper!) if I ever need to do a head gasket again instead of struggling to get 1H head bolts!

This means that the block will be fully stripped down, and we may finally get an answer as to exactly WTF this crank is... and I may build another while I'm at it as I've got a spare set of pistons! :lol:

right, well, after the car has been off the road for just over 3 years and I finally got sick of it all and started to sell parts of it off, the guy who bought the complete top end of the engine from me has found the cause of this problem... :?

Broken and weakened valve springs.... :eek: :brickwall:

What I didn't know when I was checking out the head while it was off was that the G60 uses 2 springs per valve.... :shrug: an assister spring and the main spring... in the case of my engine, the main spring on cylinder 2 had snapped into 2 pieces... this meant that while cranking over on the starter, the valve was closing OK, hence giving good compression readings.... However, when the engine is running, the boost provided from the charger was enough to overpower the assister spring and stop the inlet valve from closing completely causing the mis-fire... this was also allowing contamination of the boost feeding into cylinder 1, hence the misfire on cylinder 1 too... :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

so, all in all an :epicfail: from me in not finding this problem and rectifying it 3 years ago... :roll:

Hey ho, one to chalk up to experience there then... On a positive note, what it does mean however, is that there's nothing wrong with the bottom end of my engine...

Time to get saving for another CNC head, red-tops and Newman cam shaft then I think to get my little baby back on the road... :cuckoo: :lol: :help:

lightened flywheels increase the rev up / down speed of the engine, IE it'll go up through the revs faster than with a standard flywheel, they don't actually make the engine provide much more power, they only change the way the power is delivered... IMHO it's always a good modification... 8)

If you're getting one lightened, it MUST be balanced or you'll destroy the clutch/gearbox/crank bearings in a stupidly quick timeframe... :(

Is it black, or is it midnight blue? Nice looking car anyway... 8)

yup, that's the little buggah...

You won't get better fuel pressure to the fuel rail, but it will be more instantaneous pressure from cold as the pump won't have to prime up the accumulator before the pressure gets to the rail... 8)

I've always fancied a working version of the Ford based supercharged engine out of Mad Max's interceptor (from Mad Max 2: Road Warrior) in a Corrado... :D :cuckoo:

Of course, you'd have to make it RWD and really mess about with the 'rado to make it any good, but how evil would that look? :grin: :norty: :lol:

the MKI Golf GTI T-Shirt that's for sale in NEXT shows a 5 door... :brickwall: :bad-words:

If you're going to buy a "retro" T-Shirt... make sure the f#@*ing thing is at least accurate enough to be Retro.... :nono: :cuckoo:

With regards to a 7" Et29 compared to a 6" ET35...

ET29 will sit 6mm further into the arch than a 35mm, BUT you also have an extra 1 inch width... HALF of this is either side of the center line of the wheel (where ET is measured from!), so you add on 1/2 inch to the outside of where the wheel sits... So 1/2" - 6mm is the exact difference in where your wheel will sit in the arch....

1" = 25.4mm -> 1/2" = 16.7mm

16.7mm (half the total difference in wheel width)- 6mm (difference in ET) = 10.7mm

Your new wheels will sit 10.7mm further out of the wheel arch than the old ones, and 14.7mm further into the wheel arch as well (towards the strut) 8)

you'll be wanting to bin the accumulator... it's a royal PITA, and seriously expensive should you ever want to replace it... It's only needed for K-Jetronic systems, so with a 20VT, you can happily rip it out and connect the pipe to the engine directly to the pump (via an high pressure rated filter of course!!!)

the bit that hangs down and has the PAS metal pipe passing through it is not structural as such...as far as I can tell, it only acts as a splash guard and gives a little support to the lower spoiler...

When I rebuilt my Corrado the first time around, I also found this was rusty, but the actual cross member was solid, so I simply cut off the rusty bit that hangs down and then had the rest of the panel shot blasted and powder coated... :lol:

yup, lug on cam cover between the two dots.... :)

The standard settings are fine for a standard engine... if the car has ever had a head gasket done and has had even the slightest of skims to get it 100% flat again, you'll never get the standard timing marks to line up again... :brickwall: :roll:

On all of my previous cars, I've done the tip-ex trick, marking the crank, intermediate and cam pulleys on a tooth and the belt at the same point... I then counted the teeth between the marks and put similar marks in the same place on the new belt. Line 'em all back up again and you know it's as it was before you took the old belt off... means you can do a belt swap a lot quicker and are much more likely to notice if you get it a tooth out... although this relies on it being right in the first place... :roll:

Before I fitted the CNC head to my 1940cc G60, I found that I was running a tooth out on the cam after making 220bhp at Stealth... I do know that changing it back to set up as per factory made a massive positive difference and made the car much more drivable... Then having messed with the cam settings on my 1940cc G60 engine after I fitted my CNC head, I could never get the cam pulley to line up properly, so much so, that I fitted a Kent Vernier to it to stand a better chance of getting it close.... As it turns out, it was never quite set up properly by Chip-Wizards from the look of things, so I'll never know just what sort of difference it would have made if it were as I've since sold the top end of the engine... :cry:

The standard G60 engine I've now got (which I'll now be playing with) has never had the head off, and all of the timing marks line up 100% as per the factory instructions...

Bog off back to the Grauniad.com you! :tongue:

Oi! Don't send him over here... (I work for Guardian Media Group!)

We've enough nutters over here already... :help: :lol:

yup, got mine for the £500 mark, all in with flexy pipes and everything from Badger5.... then had to spend another hundred quid+ on custom made spacers to make 'em fit under my 16" Borbet Cs... :brickwall: :lol:

My engine as it was when first fitted in J-DUB... doesn't look quite like that in H-YYU at the moment as the head is in the boot at the moment... :roll:

VR6's You make take our litreage but you'll never take our low down torque !!!!!!

 

Turbo a VR and the goalposts change somewhat - power comes in MUCH sooner.

yeah, but turbo a G60 and you can get silly power much, much, much cheaper than turbo-ing a VR6... ;) It's all relative to cost isn't it... :)

I did the same... went to Halfords and looked at the McGuard ones to find a set 15mm longer than standard... 8)

2000/2001 Audi S4 estate... £6Kish

+£1K Milltech exhaust + sport cats

+£500 MRC remap

+£800 coilovers

= very cool, 365bhp :eek: 4x4 monster that's equally as happy being a load lugger, family car, luxury car or road warrior... (or any combination at any time!) 8)

It's next on my shopping list anyway... ;)

Blimey, a standard Corrado where the hand-brake works properly! :eek: :lol:

pass me an angle grinder and I could make the other into a convertible too... ;) :lol:

Wish I'd have got wedding prezzies like that though... :eek: